mbeers6

Whatever adhesive you use, yes I would take the fitting out and clean everything. Then apply it and let it sit overnight before you add fuel.

I had same issue with mine, dealer suggested and I have used TWICE now 3M windshield adhesive (black colored). Just get the area totally clean and free from gas/oil like the prior person said. https://www.3m.com/3M/en_US/company-us/all-3m-products/~/3M-Auto-Glass-Urethane-Windshield-Adhesive/?N=5002385+3293242009&rt=rud

Thanks for the follow up and pics Zippy. I'm going to try using the GG outer seals next time I replace my bearings then, should help keep some moisture out.

I use the same bearings but don't reuse the old "seals". Don't the bearings have seals built in? How would you fit in the old outer seals? Thanks just trying to learn.

Let me check around my garage and see. Might still have it somewhere.....

One other idea, try calling Jim Snell. He had a spare dampening rod he sold me for cheap after I stupidly leaned the fork on it's side (doing an fork oil change) and the brass piece was resting against a box. It was a little bent so I decided to replace it.

I heard the same thing about Marzocchi discontinuing parts, but what I don't understand is that new Scorpa's (non factory version) come with Marzocchi's? So shouldn't the Scorpa parts dealers be able to order replacement fork parts? ....wait a second, just read your screen name Luke what's up buddy!!! I think there is a Marzocchi dealer in Scotts Valley but if I recall correctly I called them a few years ago about buying sanchion bushings and they said they only sell mountain bike forks.

I feel your pain, can be a difficult and frustrating task. Here are some suggestions based on what I wrote down last time I had trouble bleeding the rear on my 2010. -Try cracking open the banjo bolt open (while you are holding the pedal down). -Try pushing in pistons all the way, blocking them from extending out by inserting old pads or wood shins, then try bleeding -Try "reverse" bleeding using syringe. Do this BOTH from the caliper bleed nipple and at the master cylinder. -Put rear end up on tail gate, used screw driver to pump Master Cylinder Hope this helps!

Take clutch cover off and look closely at the teeth on the primary gear and those on the clutch basket. You can get some grit in there or wear on the teeth and it can result in a sound like that. Any fuzz/metal on the drain plug magnet?

Thanks for posting, may give this a shot!

Do you have any pics of the modification? I would be interested to see what you came up with. I've been meaning to at least seal the airbox better on my '17 Agree with On It however wouldn't it be beneficial to limit the amount of dust entering the airbox as it in turn would be less dirty air for the filter to well...filter?

I only oil the outside as I would assume that under load the carb might suck in some of the filter oil. I could be completely wrong, but the inside of my filter is never dirt as I clean it quiet often.

PM sent! Thank you Lineaway, I am also looking at the OKO on the Mid Atlantic Trials page.

Thanks Lineaway, any suggestions on a reputable vendor so I get a Taiwanese one versus Chinese knockoff?

Looking to replace the dellorto carb on my 2009 TXT 250 with a Keihin and have everything I need except the carb at this point. Is there a specific make/model/year bike that came with a 28 pwk I should be using in my ebay or Craigslist search? Right now I'm looking for a genuine Keihin vs OKO. For example this one is off a 2009 Kx100 and looks like it will work (idle/air screw on correct side) with some slight modifications (float bowl drain bung will need to be plugged/removed). https://www.ebay.com/itm/Kawasaki-KX100-KX-100-KX85-85-Carb-and-Throttle-carburetor-PWK-Keihin-28mm-MINT/202650648570?epid=1111815172andhash=item2f2eeb7ffa:g:Pc0AAOSwqT9crgHa I think a new carb is over $325 USD so if I could find a used one and replace some of the jets/needle then I think I would be ahead. However if anyone knows where I can buy a genuine Keihin in USA at a good price I'm open to that. Thanks in advance!

Tried Lineway's method and it definitely helped. The other issue I found is that the plastic frame guards I have seemed to have been preventing the airbox itself from fully seating against frame. Took those off and was able to get the airbox inlet tube little further onto the carb bell housing. Thanks for all the help guys.

Thanks Gents, will go back to the stock clamp and give Lineaway's method a shot and report back

Seeking advice from others with newer Pro's using Keihin carb. Photo below is from my 2017 TXT 250 and it seems like the airbox inlet tube is not sealing far enough over the carb. Can anyone with a similar setup let me know if they have the same issue? Please confirm there is NO bushing like there is with the Delorto carb. I looked at microfische and saw nothing like that for the Keihin setup. I looked at the owners manual and it shows the inlet tube all the way over the carb. Not sure how I can get mine further forward besides maybe heating the rubber up and pulling it further forward? Yes I am using a different hose clamp in the pic, but it is the same or worse with the stock airboot clamp. The second photo shows some dirt I found on the slide; I'm very good about cleaning/oiling air filter and using grease around seal. So I'm thinking dirt maybe be getting in between carb and airbox. Thank you in advance.

Cheers, figured I was okay especially since the marzocchi's have springs in both legs. Thank you!

Wasn't paying attention and when reassembling, I put the rebound cartridge in the compression fork leg (i.e. the side with the brake caliper). Will this matter? I don't think it will since each fork will still do its job of compression and rebound. This is the 40mm aluminum Marzocchi forks (2010 250 Pro). I just put in new fork seals, bled the rebound cartridge and measured the air gap. I really don't want to take it all apart again just to put the rebound cartridge in the other fork leg. Thanks in advance!!

I couldn't get the clip back in on my '17 250 so left it out. That was several months ago and no issues. What people said about is probably correct, it's there to keep the pads from dropping out when removing the caliper.

Looking to make the throttle easier/softer on my 2010 TXT 250 which has the PHBL26 carb. Put a new cable on and lubed the throttle tube properly but I believe the return spring is the issue. I also have a 2017 TXT 250 with a Keihn and it requires much less effort to open the throttle. Trying to get the amount of effort on the Dellorto to feel more like the Keihn which is very smooth/low effort. So, has anyone gone to a softer spring? If so where did you get it (hardware store?) and did it effect the closing of the throttle at all? I don't want to modify the stock one, but what about cutting off some of the coils? Cheers

Thought these two wires were the problem, but when connected it made no difference. Anyone with same bike tell me if they should be connected?

Hey everyone, got a problem with my 2017 txt 250 E4 (US model). Noticed today the bike was spewing coolant and the fan IS spinning but very slowly (I can stop it with my finger). Bike runs fine otherwise. SOLVED!!!! Turns out the plugs in the photo below should be connected BUT the main reason was that I headlight switch on and no headlight attached. Meaning once I turned the headlight switch to off and connected the wires, fan came on full speed. Hope this might help someone else that runs into same problem. I believe the problem is that I'm not getting 12V to the fan as when I apply 12 V to the fan from a separate battery it goes full speed. So I tested the voltage at the connect that the fan plugs into and its only 1.6 volts! I've checked and cleaned the stator connectors down by the carb, the ECU connector and the voltage regulator connector....all looked okay. So how do I diagnose the problem from here? Assuming I must check voltage output from stator then check the voltage regulator. Any help is greatly appreciated!!!

Some temporary solutions but the motor bearings are probably shot. Here is possible interim solution http://advrider.com/index.php?threads/quick-fix-fan-dry-bearing-squeal.1037356/ And a permanent fix which is what I did for my 2010 GG and it has worked great so far. http://www.trialsnuts.com/GG_Fan_Motor.htm