lockie28

thanks for the advice. I replaced the seal kit today this way and it worked a treat , no hassle bleeding it either . top job (y)

hi all. Is it possible to change the piston and seals on the clutch mastercylinder WITHOUT removing the mastercylinder from the bike? any tips would be grateful thanks (y) gasgas txt pro 250 2013 ......... small AJP ( mineral )

the gasgas is much easier to maintain than say a sherco ..(example) i'v just bought myself a 2013 txt pro ( 2nd owner) and cant fault the design of the bike it is a great piece of engineering compared to other bikes i have owned.

Keihin is standard ...

what more performance do u NEED from a 290 st ? are u a british / world champs rider?

thanks for your reply. I was looking for a uk based distributer for them, they are made by 'TRUN racing technology' and in the uk you can get one by calling john shirt at trials and enduro direct. cheers

does anyone know where i can get hold of the larger float bowl for the keihin pwk28 in the uk..

there is a link on the splatshop website for setting the float height correctly on the keihin carb , check it out . check jetting , im on the west coast of scotland and runnin 125 main , 48 pilot , needle 2nd clip from bottom , air screw 3/4 turn out from fully in. keep the air filter oiled , make sure the seal around the top of the airbox cover is clean ect ect .... carb cleaning is a major part of maintenance mate unfortunatly

in what way do you mean tempramental DMC? what jetting are you running?

but u can buy a 28mm flatside dellorto from splatshop??

im glad youve asked that cause im thinking about doing the same thing on my 2013 300 . If its not the overflowing problem its something else, they are crap!

my set up is ............... sherco 300 2013. 125 main jet 48 pilot jet needle 2nd clip up from bottom Air screw ... Just over 0.5 turns out from fully in. Slide number (4) west coast of scotland riding at sea level using HI octane fuel. If there is a CLUNK then the chances are your air screw is too far OUT. Try having it at 0.5 ( half ) a turn out from fully in and tweek it from there OUT ......

Good luck then .

Check the needle valve pin is clean and moves up and down freely in the seat chamber. Clean the chamber using a cotton bud attached to a slow speed drill with a little autosol polish. Check the point on the needle valve hasn't got any marks around it ( scores) Do u have a fuel filter fitted between the tank and the pump? If there is ***** in the tank then this will get to the carb via the fuel line and will not allow the needle valve to ' shut' causing overflow.

Keihin using jetting ... 125 main ... 48 pilot ... 3/4 of a turn out from fully in . Riding at sea level on the west coast of Scotland.

Flush it out with what cope? Maybe elaborate a little more for people to understand.. I'm pretty sure you told me in a previous post that caustic soda and aluminum do NOT get along , so what do people use do flush the silencer? Cheers

sticking suggests ......... pistons in the caliper need looking at / seals replaced.

hi hammily , what calipers are on the bike ?

Nice one

It's the only way .. You can spend hours bleeding them the normal way or 5 mins doing it through back bleeding. Good luck

Are they second hand mastercylinders? If they are you would benifit from a seal kit. The cup seal on the piston can swell up slightly covering the hole in the mastercylinder, if they are new try back bleeding from the caliper back to the resivor using a syringe!

None unless you swap from the formula mastercylinders to AJP or grimeca .. If you do swap to ajp or grimeca front brake mastercylinder then you have to replace the caliper too!

On the 2013 .. It is under the rear fender behind the carb

Was a answer like that the first time too difficult? Or do you assume everyone on here is as clued up as you .. Or you think you are! Muppet!

how's it done.......... whats the procedure?