lotus54

The software is free for the OSSA. It is really something you need to have (or a local dealer has) to keep the bike running correctly. At least in my experience. It seems mine likes to have the TPS (Throttle Position Sensor) 'reset' to the ECU about every 100 hours or so. I don't know if the TPS starts to drift, or perhaps other variables in the system (like connectors getting dirty and increasing resistance). Also the ECU stores errors, like high current draw for fuel pump (generally a sign the filter requires replacement). To properly change idle sped with stock throttle body you need the software/hardware (I have a BTWICE the olle body that allows idle speed adjustment anytime. I've never needed it, but figured if the bike had an issue way up in the mountains that feature could be well worth the cost) I really like the injection, but I aware of possible issues and required extra tools. Mark

Yes, we have been talking. Too bad I don't have a scope anymore...might be able to borrow a scope meter in a couple of weeks. I had a hard time actually buying the proper connectors. (Bring your bike over and we can ride too! - but they probably won't let you push the bike across- my Explorer is plated, so I could ride it on the ferry) Mark

How did you take it apart?

I ran the bike again, checking hoses and radiator to see if they all got hot. They did NOT! So I got a new waterpump, installed and all is good. It seemed to run 85-90c idling and reving on the stand. I did not check after riding more, but all seemed good. Mark

Just a note. The setup came with zerks, but the rocker middle 'joint' had a straight zerk and is jot accessible. the dealer made it good and I have a proper 90° zerk now. Thanks TTMoto

I have a little 'burble' at very small throttle openings I only have ever had if the play was really knackered or the TPS needed reset. (Runs great everywhere else and mixture appears great on the plug- running SSDT Hard map) So I decided it would be a good time to just check everything anyway ((290 hours). Reeds good, new sparking plug Idle right, TPS set to .6V and set to EC Air filter clean Cleaned sensor in lower airbox I did see a little corrosion on the ECU connections (dang it!). Attempting to clean well. That could be my issue. BUT I wanted to test the injector to see what the pattern looked like. When I do the injector test in the software, it just clicks the injector, the fuel pump is not running so no fuel comes out. Any ideas? Mark

Not exactly on topic- but does anyone have an explanation on what the different maps that are available do? Some seem self-explanatory, but others that have things the ++ at the end. Perhaps the 'road' 2nd map is extra rich?

What are others seeing as a 'up to full temp' coolant temperature in the software? I never really noticed before, but I was getting some off idle 'burbling' I've never gotten (except when the TPS needs setting) and thought perhaps it was goofed up. I saw 130C - fan would come on and go off, no boiling or any other issues. I didn't measure the actual coolant temp in the radiator, but it certainly seemed normal. Does it really run that hot? (I have not found anything in the manuals that state running temp yet) Mark

Two of my vintage OSSAs had bad crank seals. Easy to replace once you get the primary drive apart"

Ok- not wonderful, but actually quite functional. I have not added the taillamp/lisc plate holder yet. I'm going to use one like on my AJP. I may try another slightly different method- once piece sides and weld the top on instead. (maybe I'll get some more practice welding sheet aluminum and it will look better also)

Certainly the software is avaliable, getting the cables is more difficult right now it seems. I got some from Trials and Tribulations that wokrs great. What is your location?

I have an OKO on my 74 Explorer (same as MAR), on a 72 MAR I had and even on a 200 GasGas EC. They work very well and great price. The OSSA kits from MidAtlantic were complete and easy. Sorry, can't help a lot on your Mikuni, just the usual. Figure if rich or lean, and adjust appropriate circuit to suit.

Here it is in progress. I'm not done yet, and I think I can make it look a lot nicer before I'm done, BUT I've never made anything out of sheet aluminum before, and taught myself TIG (me ell, sort of). My biggest problem is feeding the rod. I don't have the knack of sliding it through my fingers so get all goofed up after I'd fed some in. Oh- plus I don't know what I'm doing! HA! But it is light and actually pretty sturdy. I'm thinking some vinyl sheet will make it look better.

Certainly! But cut me slack for being a TIG neophyte. (I did weld some aluminum cans together, but it was pretty ugly!)

Since there doesn't seem to be anymore rear mudguards or side panels anywhere around right now- I'm fabricating a once pice setup from aluminum. I've never done this sort of thing in aluminum (I have in fibreglass)- so,it is sort of a learning process. I made up a template, then cut the three pieces from aluminum sheet. Now I'm welding the side panels to the mudguard. They both use the two side screws by the end of the seat, and overlap. Might not be the best looking (at least this first try)- but I'm hoping will work well. My mudguard broke and I have it pieced together (plus a new spare, but don't want to waste it) The bike is just so darn fun- I sure hope they really do start producing again. But I'm preparing to keep it going myself it need be. Mark

Since I will flush the old and install new lube evey ride I don't think it makes so much difference anymore.

I've been using a moly high pressure grease, I used to use a silicon with Teflon grease, but this seems to hold up a lot better and repel water better.

Took the Explorer out yesterday, the new linkage worked great. I'll give it some grease to clean out any gunk and will be ready to go. Expensive, but a great setup. Mark

There is nothing on the OSSA web site (even 'news' seems to be gone) and I asked some people that really should know--head the rumours but nothing positive. Is there something more than just a rumour? (I would really like it to be true- and certainly could be- but I've heard a lot of things...)

Correct- drains from top to bottom- wt breather hose normally would not move fuel (but probably will have some fuel in it when both tanks are full. Yes, the fuel cap is awful.

The vacuum I mentioned was only to assure all the air was out. Normally the fuel will push the air up through yet breather hose into the upper tank- that means the lower is full (no vacuum under normal operation) On mine that part you mentioned leaked- so I tightened it up put some safety wire on the hose. Sounds to me as if there is either a bad , or the fuel sensor is bad. Yes, I think you could send the ECU and throttle body in for a pretty close setup (and update firmware) Of course it is better to do it in the bike. You could,measure the resistance across the TPS now. Then try adjusting the idle and see how it is. Not the right way to do it- but if you measure first, you can always set it back. Yes, I recall now your location etc. The system is pretty simple, but really wants to be set up correctly to work right. When correct, it will fire up in one or two kicks from cold, idle perfectly right from cold and run cleanly all the way up. Mark

trail Tech does have a tech support email.

I think it really only holds a bit under 2-gallons. Try this, Unhook the line coming off the lower tank fri the upper tank (by the fuel filler) Put a brake bleeder type vacuum pump on it (with appropriate reservoir) Put a slight vacuum on that line, the slowly fill the upper tank. Stop filling once fuel comes out of the lower tank breather you are connected to. NOW e lower tank is really full. Hook the line back up,and slowly full the upper tank. In real life you should not need to do they, but since you have some issues, that will alleviate not getting it full.. Where are you located? (I think your told me, but I forgot)

I own an Explorer, done a shrt ride on the X-Trainer and ridden with a guy (probably similar riding skills) with a Freeride. I looked hard at the Freeride before getting my Explorer. The starter with no kicker scars me. Especially the old 2-stroke KTM style (I've had KTMs) It seemed to do pretty darn well on the tight stuff- not like the OSSA, but better than the full enduro bikes. I really liked the cross trainer. I would have kept the OSSA and used the beta for faster stuff, but still ok on the really tight stuff. Maybe lowered it a bit- I'm not short but I've gotten to like low bikes and I don't want to ride fast any more. So the extra suspension is a waste. None of those will be like the OSSA. 1. A huge weight difference. 2. Flywheel and manuverability 3. Balance and control. The OSSA excels at those. Not so hot going faster. I recently got an AJP 3.5 'Ultrapassar' (I figure that means you get passed a lot) It has aboth the same max HP as the OSSA,mount certainly not the bottom end. Handles very well, quite good suspension for what I want. Lighter than the PR4 and lower, but full sized wheels. Supurb fuel mileage (75MPG recent ride) It isn't as good as the OSSA in slow tight stuff, but probably as good as the Freeride. Weighs more than the Freeride. $$ is considerably less. My OSSA has been quite reliable- but I do all the maintenance myself and certainly understand your concerns. One reason I got the AJP was to put less hours on. The OSSA. I may have gotten the Beta, except of the cost. (Just retired so don't want to spend a lot) Also consider a Beta trials bike with ling range kit. I was told the new 4-stroke is quite light. The Montesa trials also comes with a seat (fuel?) but weighs as much as the OSSA. 4-Ride looks cool, but weights I saw approached 200lbs Not sure any of that helps.

You can test the injector with the software