This is my first venture into the clutch, so sorry for my ignorance. I've seen online where they're in 2 parts, but mine looks a little different, in that from the outside view, it all looks like one piece. But absolutely nothing moves. The entire assembly is stuck in there. And like I said, I even had about a 3 lb slide hammer, giving it fairly firm whacks on alternating sides. I hooked the hammer under the retaining ring with the discs out, so that I didn't risk damaging it. I'm baffled.
Remove the 10 bolds, round ring with the 10 holes, the spring, all the fingers, dont forget the inner bold with the small whole. You should be able to pull the inner clutch hup out now.
Should look like this. Then the outer parts should come free aswell.
It could be that the plates are a little bit twisted, or the clutch basket is a little worn (the plates hit the grooves), and then they might be stuck in there a little.
(a random picture but it shows the wear good i am talking about)
Put it on a stand and check if you can pull up the swingarm without the shock moving. Loose bolts can also cause problems.
A little play is not a very big problem, and well it can only get worse, nothing will brake. But eventually they will need to be replaced. often they go wrong once the seals go bust.
On the gas gas the entry hole for oil in the bearing case on the ignition side is tiny so I doubt anything will get in. It's about 1mm. However I think the drive side is open, is the ossa the same ?
a contact is a non-pro bike, just like the editions. Until 2004 the forks where 38mm with the clamps with a small gap in it if you look from the side.
I would not know if they are better. But most old forks are not like the were when they were new. So rebuilding and adjusting to your weight might be worth the effort. (new springs and bushings are not that explansive)
I somethimes have that it does not want to go in, but never had it not comming out. Sometimes the bearing inside ''touches'' a little but never had real struggles...
Is the problem in the outer part or the inner part?
Yes that could be the case. I would say the fingerheight is more important than the pack thickness. Also the levers can be bend, spring could be worn etc etc.
With 16 it should work, but probably a heavy clutch.
There is also something like ''feeling''. Its not the same as factual kg's on a scale. E.g compare a same weight heavy four stroke, with a 2stroke bike. The latter one will feel lighter.
It also depends very much where the weight is. Lighter wheels, tyres, and suspension is deffenatly feelable.
I think because the first friction plate has to sit in a lipped clutch basket. If the friction plate wasn't thick enough it wouldn't touch the bottom and you'd lose some of the clutch grip.
All the Surflex friction plates are 2.3mm so no need to get the right one at the bottom like the original plates. Although maybe the newer plates are the same too?
I would replace the fluid if its dark, it shouldnt be. If the brake overheats it normally would loose pressure on the pedal, not lock up imo. But the reason for it overheating can be that the piston did not return back good/was stuck.
Just considering rings, valves, crank case venting, and depending on bike emissions recirculation systems. There is and can be plenty of oil getting into a 4T cylinder.
Where I admit it shouldn't be anything close to a 2T it can well be enough to cause plug issues. Especially if things like plug gap, or heat range are wrong.
A possible fix/help could also be to consider a one step hotter plug?
Thats my point. rings and valves should not leak, (especially it being a honda )
In the original pack the friction plates differ, and then the first one to go in is the thickest. However I dont really understand why. But if they are the same it should work in my opinion.
Erm... Jarvis has won. More than once (or twice, or even thrice...)
Four times actually.
Yeah, I know. But I would like to see them both together. I think its a really different discipline. Its like a MX world champion, to try and win the dakar, or a enduro. They are probably good at it, but there are probably speciallist who are better. Although I think that Raga and especcially Bou are that good trials riders, give them some training time for an event like the SSDT and they are potential winners (but not garanteed).
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2003 Txt Pro Clutch Issues - Please Help!
in Gas Gas
Posted · Edited by crazybond700
Maybe you tried but I will sthttp://www.trialscentral.com/forums/index.php?app=forums&module=post§ion=post&do=reply_post&f=7&t=60347&qpid=427209illexplain it a bit more extensive, maybe it helps.
Remove the 10 bolds, round ring with the 10 holes, the spring, all the fingers, dont forget the inner bold with the small whole. You should be able to pull the inner clutch hup out now.
Should look like this. Then the outer parts should come free aswell.
It could be that the plates are a little bit twisted, or the clutch basket is a little worn (the plates hit the grooves), and then they might be stuck in there a little.
(a random picture but it shows the wear good i am talking about)