Like mentioned above we had the problem in our blue class (C class). This class has the most riders. We split it up ths year as experiment to a C and C+ class. C+ riders ride the C route, with some extra steps or really difficult turns or climbs.
A little water cam come out just after a revil. You often put too much in. If more comes out there is a problem, like a leaking headgasket, broken pump etc.
Never knew this (did not need it) but good tip! Saw jim schnell made the same remark in another thread.
Also the front gear on the crankshaft is stuck somethimes. There is suposed to be a tool for this aswel. On one of my bikes its stuck, havent got it loose yet.
Non rebuildable shock are actually like mentioned above often servicable. However they are not designed for it, so you need someone with expierence. I had my offroad bike shock done (I do my others myself). The shock does not have a valve to put pressure on it, so a valve was mounted on it by an expert.
Use locking pliers on the bottom to prevent damage to the threads. Undo the bolds (dont forget the rubber chain guide bold, undo the front ones, and the plate will come out savely.
Use a press to put it back in correct shape. Put it on some blocks to get the correct shape. Will cost a lot of tries. First it does not bent, if you go too far it bends too far. I always count the amount of pulls on the press.
Eventually you can get it in good shape and put the rubbers back on and it should fit fine without any problem to get the bolds in.
A 04 even has got the old style bearings. Newer bikes (05 onwards) have got bearing ''packages''. Bearings and seals inside one unit.
Oil, especially ATF needs regular replacement. How much you do is your own choice, have seen plenty of bikes running much more hours before replacement without any problems.
My issue is that I tend to unconsciously just hold the throttle about 1/2 and modulate the power using the clutch. I tend to do this even when traction is good. Like my right hand just goes from closed to open and nothing in between. Then the bike either bogs from too little throttle or takes off - either way I end up slipping the clutch to control it.
I guess it's just practice but any more structured drills?
One expert rider did tell me to get off the clutch once and that did make me ride much more smoothly.
Body position is also important for this. Probably you are holding youself on the bars, instead of using your feet.
You can try an exercise by trying to use the feet only, and to use your fingers on the bar only, thump and fingers on the trottle, thump and finger on the clutch. Just to see if your body is correct.
Often when people are tired they tend to grap the trottle, and use the clutch to compensate. But this is mainly because they pull towards the bars and knees towards the tank, sort of safe mode.
I do not agree that the clutch should not be used (or less as possible). This is just a new style of riding, might also depend on what kind of trial your riding. But the new bikes just need more clutch, and are also designed for this purpose. I always learn beginners the clutch is their best (and newest) friend. Brakes they ''understand'' from bycycles (we are a cycle country ) but the clutch is normally something for your feet ( I teach a lot of non-moto riders).
With long and short sleeves.
) but the clutch is normally something for your feet ( I teach a lot of non-moto riders).
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in UK Trials Talk
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Like mentioned above we had the problem in our blue class (C class). This class has the most riders. We split it up ths year as experiment to a C and C+ class. C+ riders ride the C route, with some extra steps or really difficult turns or climbs.
This can be done to every level class.