I am not sure if you are still on Trials central, I am Clive Dopson and I am interested if you could send me the photo file of me riding the fourstroke Kawasaki
The Norton was built as one of three by my father in the early seventies, I have Talmag badges continuously from 1975 and the year I won it overall on a rigid on the special test was 1982, Geoff Chandler and I always competed for the rigid class but I am not sure when or if he won it outright.
I first rode the Norton in Scotland in 1986 and according to my records it has completed 42 days in Scotland without retiring, including welding the footrest one day and another year rebuilding a wheel on the Mamore Road.
One day I should get my notes in order as I think 2014 was the last time I will ride it in Scotland, compare 2014 on 160 marks over two days to 2000 as 25 marks over two days.
Yes it is the same Douglas that Matthew has ridden in the Talmag most years since 1998 and Mick Andrews rode it in Scotland in 2009. There used to a more Douglas Comps in the Talmag each year but there have been no others for the last few years. I rode it in Scotland in 1985 and it only gets used two or three times a year.
Mick did ride a Douglas in Scotland in 2006, he told everyone he would do it on the Saturday evening 2005 after too much red wine. Then during the evening he asked if he could ride my Douglas in 2006, I said yes so he decided to stick to his word.
I have been building a pre 65 trials bike for some time with a replica frame and I have found for a sale an appropriate frame and V5c of the same brand and year. The seller states that the V5c is in his name and has a non-transferable registration number. How difficult would it be to use this V5c and frame number to register and tax the trials bike?
When it means non-transferable does that mean at the end of the process my bike would get the registration number on the V5c or another age related number?
I have been building a replica Norton 500T for the last seven years and finally I am getting enough time to finish it. I plan to use a 26mm Mk 1 Amal concentric carburettor and would like to understand where to start with the jets, needle and slide. A good starting point would be what do other riders use on Ariel HT5 or similar 500 cc singles, I plan to use a simple foam air filter mounted on the inlet without an air box.
Also how do real Amal and similar replica parts compare?
Maxbikes, thanks for the reply but it was a shame there were no others.
I rode a trial on 18/8 and I am convinced it is a selector not a clutch problem. I have ridden this bike in about 10 trials a year since 1996 and although I experiment a lot the clutch has been stable since 2008 as Barnet springs and kelvar plates with the CG125 anti-judder kit and has not generally needed adjustment even when riding muddy trials in third gear on the clutch.
I tried it again today and even when very hot it was generally ok so I ride a trial next weekend and then decide what to do as it could be improved.
On the subject of oil specification I have been working in engine design for 35 years during which Mobil and Castrol over the years have generally supplied the best technical support to project I have been working on. I did try both Mobil and Castrol fully synthetic oils, but their technical experts recommended that the oil additive packages in their top grade Mobil 1 or Castrol RS was not generally suitable for wet clutches. For many years I have used motorcycle specific semi-synthetic 10/40 oil without an issue, I change the oil dependant on the type of event but generally about every 10 litres of fuel.
I wonder if anyone can help, my TLR 250 has become difficult to get into first gear unless you are actually moving along, this can make it difficult to be sure you are not in second gear when engaging gear to go into a section. It feels like there are no more gears available by moving the lever down.
Any advice or experience appreciated, I hope it is inside the clutch cover rather than engine out and split the cases, thanks.
Currently I use 6 psi in the rear although in the past I tried to run a bit lower.
According to my notes I have definitely used Dunlops since 2008 and may have been earlier.
The last year I had punctures was two in 2006, the worst year was three punctures in 2004.
I think the reduction in punctures is driven by many causes,including higher rear pressure, Dunlop tyre, going slower between sections and as I get older getting fed up with changing tubes.
I am preparing for Scottish pre 65 trial and wondered if anyone knew any availability of tubed Dunlop rear tyres. In the past I have found that with a rigid I have had less punctures with a Dunlop, I have one D801 remaining with a new edge but thought it may be worth asking the question. Thanks
I have been using my TLR250 for about 15 years and have experimented with many clutch arrangments, including a partial attempt to convert to hydraulic based on 4RT parts. My optimum specification is Barnett Kevlar plates, CB125 anti-rattle kit in place of the outside steel plate, motorcycle specific semi synthetic engine oil designed for wet clutch, and a spacer behind the bearing in the outer casing to optimise the actuation point of the cam.
When I said it could be rebored what I meant was bored back to standard size after a new sleeve/liner had been fitted, the company I used in the UK is called Jetbore, their website says they still provide the service.
The thickness of the sleeve is critical due to the cylinder stud holes being cast into the original liner and the proximity of the stud holes to the cylinder bore.
In terms of interchangeability I cannot be sure they are the same part number but I expect the liner configuration is the same so the same reclaim procedure can be followed.
Assuming the RTL cylinder barrell layout is the same as TLR, ie a cast in liner, then the easiest solution I have found is to have the liner bored out and a new thin walled liner fitted and rebored to standard size. A few years ago in the UK this cost about
I have ridden my TLR250, in about 10 times a year since 1996 and generally it is reliable but there is one problem. Regularly every 10 to 20 trials the rear wheel bearings need replacement. I am carefull not to over tension the chain and have tried both Honda original equipment and after-market bearings. The rear wheel is the standard TLR 250 one without any cush-drive. I wondered if anyone else had the same problem and had found any way to improve the situation.
Tlr250
in Honda
Posted
28 to 30 Nm