elemetal

When I had mine converted the dealer said the 1.x versions of the software won't work with the battery-less system and the 2.x map won't work with the battery system. If you had the battery then completed the battery-less and did not upgrade to the 2.x map that is the problem. Mine (battery-less upgrade, 2.0 map) starts every time hot with 1-2 and cold 3-5; always.

Replaced both springs so the bike is more fitted to my weight (220 lbs), that has helped with turning in the rough some and allows me to store more energy for big ups. I can also get more weight forward to drive the front end in full lock, makes it track better. Front hopping is smooth with the vert due to the low center of gravity, rear hops I find dropping my weight down in my knees more than I would've thought helps the back come up a huge amount. Remember not only is the C of G low in the vert but also back quite a bit as opposed to a regular non efi bike. My friend's TRS seemed to hop better but the bike didn't feel as planted as my vert. GG don't turn anywhere near as tight, not even close. Check your linkage bearings too, mine were pretty dry on grease, cleaning and re-greasing helped the back move easier. The low C of G also means you get less pull on the bars when holding pressure or using the bike to pull you over the top of big stuff, less scary but you have to work a little harder.

I use the fancier one that Lewisport sells, machined, anodized aluminum as opposed the the steel one (Spanish fly). The screen can be removed and cleaned which is needed on a regular basis, works well; have one on my wife's gasser too.

SR48 300 or 400. Have to double check motor amperage (300 of 400 corresponds to the amps); 48v (max 65v peak). Looks like it will fit the frame OK. My electrical friend likes to put a small toggle on the bars for on the fly power mode switching (going up a hill and you realize you don't have enough juice half way up..) and the Alltrax will allow for override input like that.

My wife got one to play around on and had the same experience; throttle control is really odd. Had some other folks ride it (me included) and we all agreed, weird to the point of dangerous. If you drag the the brakes it becomes OK but that will burn out the motor if you're not careful. Guy in our club is a retired electrical engineer and has built his own e-bike from a Montesa; made his own Li batteries etc. The problem with the Oset is it has a constant torque controller rather than a constant speed controller. The constant torque controller makes the bike keep going after you roll off the throttle and other odd behavior. Alltrax makes a constant speed controller that I think will fit in the frame above the motor and costs about $350 US, my wife is still trying to decide if she wants to mod it or sell it.

I had the same issue as you when the bike was basically new, started out to just miss a little, then got so bad within a day I barely finished and event. It was exactly what Peterb described and turns out was due to an over-torque at the factory. Bolt head cracked off. FYI you have to pull the gear position sensor to get access to that side of the motor which then requires a reset. Pretty sure you need ECU access to do the reset (the fuel maps look to see what gear you're in)

I pulled the stock light and board, removed the headlamp and buttons. I then place the buttons into the foam bar clamp protector and ditched the lamp. This allowed a normal board mount (formed plastic clips onto the forks) and better button access. These thong bikini boards (my Ossa had a similar one) are pretty useless as is the headlamp, much prefer a standard board with letters you can actually see....

So I've now got about 20 hrs and one full trial on the battery-less system and can say it is great. No more prodding a button with some type of start up pattern, just kick it and go like any other trials bike. 2.0 map is much better than previous ones, the addition of the map and battery-less makes me say what a fellow Vert rider said after his got changed.." Now I have the bike that I thought I bought to begin with." The initial learning curve/Beta testing was well worth it, really enjoying the bike now.

FYI you can get an out of state temp sticker at just about any bike shop that will allow you to ride and unreg'd bike at an OHV in CA. $50/yr rather than $25 for a red sticker. Almost all of the Sacto Pits events are on private land so no issue there and when we do and event at and OHV (Prairie City etc) they consider it a special event and you don't need a sticker, just a spark arrestor. Doubt it will be an issue for you to have that bike, lots of folks in our club have Sherco/Scorpa/TRS and none of them can be reg'd in CA. You may want to expand your search a little, there are some good dealers in Idaho, Oregon and even BC that may be easier to deal with than bringing one back from the EU.

Well I got the battery-less system installed and the 2.0 map loaded. Starting is much better and the 2.0 map seems different off the bottom, a little more torque by my seat of the pants-o-meter. Only have about 4 hrs on the new system but so far am liking it. The 1.3 map has a pretty rich set for idle/starting and I had times when I couldn't start the bike even having just ridden it for a while (1/2 hr or more, no shut-off). If you don't have the throttle pretty open it will put too much fuel in when the pump starts and just about floods it....not always but enough to make me worry about shutting off; not a good thing in trials at all! Price for the system is about $150; I was told it costs about 300 euros but they get 150 euro back for the power control module (not the ECM but the little black box at the head stock) so the cost is somewhat recouped. I'll update my post after some more time but so far it seems pretty good; took the dealer about 1 hr to install and re-flash the ECU. They cut the power line from the battery and run that line to a new capacitor, add a ground out of the wiring loom and replace the power control module. They also added a one way fuel valve from the line going from the pump to the injector; looks like a little plastic pancake fuel filter.

Ditch the weight and use map 3? It is so soft on 3 that it messed my timing up big time at the BAC. Back on 2 or 1 and I was good to go. 4 is for high altitude I was told (over 7000 ft)

I get the same thing and also added a 5mm spacer at the bracket. It is the lower rear part of the fender flexing and catching an edge on your tire, a small rock stuck in the tread will cause the same sound. I'm not too impressed with the fit of my fender, stock the front tip was about 1mm off the tire tread....bad plastic mold I guess.

Turns out I will be a guinea pig for the wireless update. 1.3 map on my bike and others with the battery is causing hard start issues. In order to sort this out my dealer wants to load a 2.0 map on but it needs the battery-less system installed. Dealer is going to put it in for me and load up the 2.0; I should have it back this weekend so will report back slightly as to any positive or negative affects.

That is exactly what those two wires are for, 2013 and before didn't have the light (as shown). You can run any small bulb or buy the actual one, pretty sure it goes out when the level is low (opposite of normal).

Not sure if they retarded it or advanced it.....; ) I was told it was to accommodate a stator that could power lights etc. There was no charge for the flywheel swap, map update or labor.

I confirmed this with my importer a week ago, all the newer bike come with a different flywheel and no battery. Any of 2.xx maps need the new flywheel to work, they moved the angular relationship between the pick-up and the keyway (crank position). I was told that this was due to the Vandal and how it it set up, they want all the parts to cross over that can. There is a battery elimination kit available, think it's about $150. Haven't had an issue with mine so not too worried to switch but will eventually. I'm guessing most of the new map development will be with that system.

The fuel injection allows the fuel tank to be low and the filter to be high, good for center of gravity and water getting in. Last year we had a fairly deep stream crossing that a few gassers got drowned out it while my Ossa didn't get close. Handling is tighter than my Ossa, turns tight like a Beta but handles similar to a Gasgas. Off idle response is super smooth and makes holding pressure easier (for me at least); response is faster than the Ossa and the different maps are very noticeable. You can't do much without a dealer as to the motor, I see mine at most events so can usually do any computer work there. If you don't have that option I'd consider it an issue. The FI is great for elevation changes but a carbed bike works if you know how to mess with it. I waffled when switching from the Ossa due to the whole FI issue and almost went TRS, then opted back to FI and the Vert. If I didn't have a close relationship with my dealer I might've gone the other way. Power is very good, overall build is good, dealer and factory support is very good.

It does look like someone added some extra holes at the lower tube (sanding marks on some but not all). Only thing I can think to check is that you didn't get the rebound cap/rod on the compression leg; one leg is comp, one is rebound. I found an online fork manual at Marzocci, was in spanish but easy enough to follow. Look for it, it may help (think there was a link from this site/subforum somewhere). The clickers have about 18 clicks if I remember right, shock has about 25; too many bikes with different forks/shocks.

We have two events here in the Sierra's at 7,500 and 7,800 ft (about 2,500 meters+) and a couple more at 5,500 ft (1,800 m); ridden the OSSA 280 at most of them and the power is down slightly, idle is lower but the rest of the behavior is fine. So much so I never thought too much about the elevation. The vertigo has a special map (#4) for high altitude but I forgot to run it this last weekend (7800 ft). Ran pretty good on map 1 but I wish I would've remembered #4, heard it ran great on that.

I'll second what africajon said, Adrian did mine at the end of a trial, took 10 minutes. Contact him ahead of time so he knows to bring the laptop and battery. Bear Valley is in a couple of weeks and will be a blast, plan to ride it if you can.

What gearing are you guys running? The first three are indeed very close but with the 38 rear it was rather snatchy off idle. Swapped out to a 43 rear but found I was running most sections in 2nd. Thinking of going to a 40 but am curious as to other opinions. Bike rides very well, turns tight and responds well to peg input. We were riding a competition at 7800 ft last weekend and I didn't fuss with anything fuel related, ran on map 2 for most of the trial in powder dry Sierra dust and big granite boulders, seemed to work well. No battery charge issues and as long as the loop has some length I don't expect any, will get a spare just to be safe.

Adrian at Lewisport has told me the the earlier versions of ECU need to be re-flashed by a company in Spain in order to be able to upload the newer software version (2012 falls into this catagory). He now has a few of those re-flashed ECU's so the newest maps can be loaded into them, it may be a matter of sending the old one to get a re-flashed one (core exchange). As to the B-twice cables he has/had a few but refuses to sell them due to issues, said that 2 out of 5 caused the connected computer to crash so didn't want to be responsible for problems that came about due to their use. Not sure what he personally uses to link up but he did my 2012 about 1 1/2 months ago with no issues, just a quick TPS check/set and everything was all better.

I posted this about my new Vertigo Camo on another site, only have about 5 hrs on it but you can see my thoughts on it, a great bike for sure. I think they may sell quite a few of them.... All the bits (rear brake, shifter, pipe) are all tucked way back inside. 1/4"(5mm) thick bash plate protects it all and the FI lets them make a much shorter header. I compared it with some gassers and it must be 2" higher at the first turn after the exhaust port and 3-4" lower at the upper turn (by the gas tank/frame). This allows it to be tucked up and away and stay right by the cylinder. Frames are about the same width but Vertigo does a silencer that flattens out under the rear fender rather than on the side like a gasser. Again, more trim and narrow in the tail. FI is very good, way better than the Osaa, Donna started it after riding it for 3 minutes....she could never start the Ossa. Air filter is HUGE, almost the size of the gasser fuel tank, no joke; up high as well so it lasts forever before a clean. Fuel tank is below the saddle and clear so you can see the fuel level (rocket science....). That low fuel level leads to the handling; very light with a very tight turning radius. Dan D (Beta rider) agreed with me; it is as tight turning as a Beta, maybe even more so (he thought maybe another 5 degree?). I kept jack knifing on lock turns in soft stuff, it's so much tighter than the Ossa. Peg input is sensitive, slight weight variation and the bike takes a different tack; I was over doing it all weekend. The frame felt like it had two different areas to work in; over the saddle and way forward over the bars. At first being that far forward seemed weird but the bike is so stable and turns so tight you have to put some bar pressure down at full lock to make it track. Motor has great power and is easy to dial up as needed. Pat M rode a test section on his gasser and cleaned it then tried Rich F's Ice Hell never having ridden it before. Not only did he also clean the section but said it felt better on Rich's bike!!

The Ossa loom has two power connects, one is AC for the led headlight and the other is DC. Although you said you checked voltage running it AC would explain the issues you're seeing (it's a very low output AC)