dan williams

Yeah after a few years with Diadora boots I'm back to Gaerne and happy as they are soooo comfy. I think Billy had it right with build up of oil in the crankcase. It's not uncommon for even a new bike to smoke out on the trail after plonking about in the woods and at 50:1 I would imagine it was pretty bad. If I remember the '92 flattened out pretty early. You can't ride 'em like enduro bikes. You get the best by short shifting and staying in the meat of the torque curve.

50:1 is pretty rich for a water cooled trials bike. I typically run no more than 80:1

1/4 to 3/4 should be the needle/needle jet. Maybe yours is worn. I know it happens to older bikes. What are you running for oil/fuel ratio?

Probably has an exhaust system that is fairly gunked up too.

Thanks slick but this is a four stroke and hence my confusion in tuning. I think this carb has more parts than my car.

Reading manuals and trying to come to terms with the complexity of the BSR33-79 I have to believe that much of the complexity is due to this being a last generation streetbike carb that has lots of baggage attached for emissions reduction. I think the same is true for the electrically controlled fuel tap. I know my wife's TTR125 carb is a lot simpler than this beastie. Is there a significant advantage to a CV carb over a variable venturi for a four stroke other than preventing a transient too rich mixture from messing up emissions?

Put it back together today. Bike starts cold with choke and seems to run proper. Attempt to restart and it backfires and refuses to catch. Time to go deeper.

Thanks Reggie. I saw on a scooter site that some shave that spacer down. What about that 90 degree 10mm wide nipple that comes out the side pointing up. Does that connect to anything or is it just a rain catcher?

Heh heh The original problem the carb had that allowed me to talk my buddy into letting me work on the bike was it was peeing fuel. I just looked at the carb and noticed it's missing two float bowl screws. That was easy.

OK I'll admit I'm out of my depth on this. A buddy of mine has an '08 Rev4 factory bike. Supposedly only one of 15 built that year and one of only two in the US. it's never run quite right so it has sat for a few years with the intention of getting it back to proper ridability. I've offered to help cleanup the carb. To a dyed in the wool two stroke guy this carb is a little disturbing but this is how I learn so... Any recommendations where I can find manuals, exploded diagrams and such for this carb. I've been to the usual Beta sites and have the Beta manuals but there are some rather large gaps in the information. I was also wondering if anybody has drilled out the pilot screw plug to open up that avenue of tuning? It's interesting to see the concessions on this bike done for emissions such as venting the crankcase through the airbox and plugging the pilot mixture screw. Also any recommended dealers for parts would be welcome as I'm fairly sure to break something in my poking and prodding.

...and THAT'S why I've never needed a piston.

There is a lot of joking here. Basically you shouldn't need a piston for many years. What we're saying is don't worry about it.

Hey heffergm, I'm just joking. I know you're new here so I should explain, Billy is one of the uber gurus like Jon Stoddley (sp?) over on the GasGas forum. When I want to be humbled I dip into their knowledge.

Actually Billy I was thinking you run them for two years then flip them over so you wear the other side and save money. ?

OK now you're just looking for problems. Just ride the damn thing. Four or five years from now put in a set of rings and ride it again for four years.

... or put a layer of teflon plumbers tape on the bar under the lever.

Bel-Ray or Spectro gear oil but any good wet clutch oil works.

ATF won't hurt anything. I just feel it makes for a grabby clutch which makes life a little too exciting for duffers like me.

Yeah there can be wear. I just thought it important to warn quickly so he doesn't put a wrench to the bolts and crack his hub.

One of the problems with the Beta clutches is the variability bike to bike. I've had bikes that were OK from the start and bikes that were just awful. My buddy's 2014 factory is really good. My 2013 was meh before the fix. My 2008 was horrible before the fix. I'm gonna take a look at heffergm's plates. He ordered some Sureflex to try and I'll mod his stock plates while he checks out the sureflex but I remember somebody else on the mod thread mentioning the Sureflex plates they got looking as unfinished as the Adige Beta plates so it'll be interesting to see the difference. Also I think the Sureflex plates are all the same thickness so the clutchpack will be thinner like the older bikes. Similar to what I did on my 2013.

Floating disk. There are finger washers that keep the rotor under slight spring pressure to keep it from rattling but the rotor moves. Don't make the mistake of trying to tighen the mounting bolts to stop it moving as you'll bung up the hub.

Dude, it's time we meet up and spin sone wrenches on that thing I'm only an hour away.

Heh heh this is like mixing a band. Newbies will say, "I can't get the ------ loud enough." When you tell them to turn down the other instruments they just look at you like you're an idiot. It sounds to me like having your forks at full preload is making the chassis do odd things in regards to head angle and loading. Remember if one suspension isn't compressing the other will compress much further as the inertia of the frame tries to rotate around the axle of the wheel with the non compliant suspension. You should be bottoming out the front and rear occasionally, a couple times each loop and even if you're riding bunny sections you should bottom out on the loop trail if you're going at a good clip.. If you're not then you're not using all the travel you should. Too stiff forks will force the rear to compress more on hits and effectively increase the trail of the frame. that can lead to some very weird handling during transitions from one camber to another. Another thing that is common to a new rider is to have their bars too far back to slow the steering down or too far forward thinking it will hold the front end down on climbs. This is a largely personal preference setting but it is important because it affects your entire perception of the bike. Having the bars too far forward will cause you to compensate by sticking your can far back which works against you in a climb. Having them too far back causes you to stand up a bit too straight rolling your hips forward and messing up your ability apply force to the bars and pegs to control the bike. It takes some time to figure out the right position. When you ride with other more experienced riders look at their bikes and see how they are set up for your area. See if you can snag a putt on a few and get to feel how a suspension should work rather than go by just look. See if you can get a good trials tuner to work with you to get your bike set up. Just note that the best riders are not always the best wrench operators. Some of these guys can ride a trashcan through a section and still look like they're on a factory bike. It's a learning process. It takes time so don't stress over it. Even after almost 30 years of doing this it still takes me about 3 months to where I feel properly adjusted to a new bike. And yes the phrasing is intentional as I have to settle into the bike as it is adjusted to my liking.

Oh yeah, forgot to mention backing off the preload made the new springs work fine. In fact the reason for using heavier springs is so you can use less preload but that's a whole long theoretical discussion I don't care to type into a phone.

Unless your bike is stored with the suspension fully compressed your stock springs should last for many years. A 2010 is not likely to be a candidate for new springs. Having said that I have put the stiffer front and rear in my 2013 because I am also a Clydesdale at 100kg. I'm sure, unlike myself, you are all muscle. I got the springs from Saunders Extreme. Yes I also cranked up the preload first time with the new springs. The suspension compressed what looked like the proper amount standing on the pegs in the parking lot. Once I got in the woods the bike was unridable. Is this your first trials bike? I'm not asking that to be a jerk. It's just not uncommon for new trials riders to be very uncomfortable with how soft a properly working trials suspension is. Most of the experianced guys will talk about how the suspension tracks over rocky turns or whether it sticks on steps or how the front to rear balance affects ability to hold a line. I never hear them talk about sag. If you're having trouble getting lift over an obstacle it usually has more to do with throttle control. The typical error is to keep the throttle on which keeps the rear suspension compressed causing it to pound the rear into the obstacle. If you watch a good rider ride over a log their throttle is essentially off when the rear wheel makes contact.you will also notice the rear suspension is uncompressed. With full preload on even the stock springs your suspension won't track small bumps at all and that will seriously affect your ability to find traction in the slick.