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dan williams

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Everything posted by dan williams
 
 
  1. If it's a Mikuni it's a simple fix. Nipper a small hole in the two vent tubes about halfway up the carb body. The long tubes act like a siphon if fuel bounces up into the tubes.
  2. There is no purpose to "sag" It is merely how much the springs compress under the static weight of rider and bike. It has become a somewhat misunderstood measure of preload on the suspension springs. A general rule of thumb that becomes less useful with riders of different weight or springs that have sacked over time or been changed for accessory springs of a different rate. I was planning on going into this in depth at some point with pictures and diagrams but I'll try and cover a pocket version here. On a typical suspension application the springs and the weight of the bike/rider form a low frequency filter. As the wheels move rapidly to follow the terrain the frame reacts slower. The idea being that the quicker wheel movements are averaged out providing a smoother ride. At the same time the wheel weight and springs form a second resonant filter based on wheel weight and spring weight. This determines how fast the wheels react to changes in the terrain to stay in contact with the ground. The two systems are somewhat counter to each other as a lower spring rate/heavier chassis gives a smoother ride but a higher spring rate/lighter wheel maintains better contact with the ground. This is where "unsprung weight" becomes critical. Unsprung weight is essentially the wheel and any suspension components that are directly connected to the wheel on the bottom side of the shock. The lighter the wheel the lower the necessary spring rate to keep the inertia of the wheel from making it lose contact with the ground. Trials bikes are usually set up with very soft suspension so the first thing Clydesdales like myself notice is how easy it is to bottom out the suspension. The cheap answer is to crank up the preload. It's not the best solution. Preload is not spring weight. If I have an unloaded spring that takes 50kg to compress a centimeter it takes 100kg to compress it 2 centimeters, 150kg 3 centimeters. If I have the same spring preloaded 1 centimeter and I put 50kg on it won't compress. If I put 100kg on it will compress 1 centimeter, 150kg 2 centimeters. I've effectively lost the first centimeter of travel. What that means in practical terms is if I ride over a series of little stutter bumps that never put more than 50kg of load on the spring it might as well be a solid metal spacer. If you've ever driven a 1 ton truck with nothing in it around a bumpy corner you know the feeling well as all it does is skip across the road. Assuming you are not built like Fujigas a heavier spring with less preload is better for two reasons. The first is less preload means the spring will actually react over smaller bumps. The second is peculiar to trials and specifically any maneuver that stores energy in the suspension to be released with the wheel leaving the ground, splatters, zaps, hops... With the spring preloaded you have to put in much more energy to get the suspension to move but you don't get it all back. If I jump on the above mentioned preloaded spring with 150kg of force that first 50kg gets transferred directly to the ground and only 100kg of energy is available to be recovered from the spring. OK it's more complicated than that as energy is stored in the tire but that's the general concept. So sag is not an absolute measurement. More critical is balance between the front and rear suspension, how well your wheels are tracking on bumpy terrain, your personal riding style. Big hits and trick riding vs. slow turns and bumpy sections. If you can find any video of Jordi Tarres and Eddy Lejuene you will get an example of how different two world champions suspensions can be. Jordi's bikes were always sprung very high with minimal damping where Eddy's bikes were soft as a sneaker full of oatmeal. If you're bottoming out a lot a little preload goes a long way with a rising rate suspension but be careful as it's very easy to dial in too much. Best approach is small adjustment, ride, small adjustment, ride. You will eventually find a setting that works for you.
  3. His description sounds like the clutch stick with the seller starting the bike first time with rear brake on as we all learned to do. Clasico, It's an easy, though tedious, fix.
  4. Read the clutch fix pinned at the top of the forum.
  5. ...and I heard the suggestion last weekend of going to second only from third on an EVO. Considering mine has popped out of second a few times now with bad results I'm thinking I need to adopt this strategy.
  6. Excellent. The clutch mod does a lot more than the deglazing of plates but whatever works... Hard shifting from clutch drag as you described can also be odd things like warped plates lined up just wrong in the clutch pack or plates not concentric due to the tabs being lumpy. Other guys on here like Billy Trainor have done really good work on sorting that stuff out. I suspect you shifted the alignment of the plates on reassembly and that may also have helped. I think you deserve a lot of credit for keeping at it until it worked. Not everyone has that patience. Keep an eye on the engagement point to make sure the hydraulics aren't weeping and it should be good for quite some time.
  7. I like it. Still pulls like a locomotive but the sudden hit has been transformed into a nice linear curve.
  8. Great shot. Love the smile but that four legged observer looks tough.
  9. I'd love to. Looking at your area on Google Earth it looks like cracking good trials terrain and just plain pretty as well.
  10. Well tooled around the yard with the new chamber. Easier to kick and a little mellower at the upper mid but still a 300. Event Sunday so I'll see if I've tamed the beast. Started first kick. Also installed the bigger impeller kit recommended by my dealer.
  11. New bikes have a head that is a seperate combustion chamber inside a water jacket. Yeah it kind of weirds me out but that's the new normal.
  12. OK I think there's something else going on. Is the clutch behaving properly as a clutch and just the gears are hard to change? Beta's are known to be notchy at best. I think a lot has to do with the long aluminum shifter but the gearbox is nowhere near Japanese MX bike smooth. How is the action of the shifter when done by hand? Does it shift hard in all gears? Worn pads would exhibit slip in the higher gears but won't affect shifting. We need more info.
  13. You could also take some fine emery cloth to the steel plates just to deglaze the surface. I think when I've measured fiber plates they were always 2.7mm but not knowing if that was good or bad I just schlepped them back in.
  14. When my club held events taking the beginners around was the most highly sought after job. It was great fun.
  15. Yeah I thought of it but I like the grunt of the bigger motor. Part of the big power hit is ignition timing but I think the main difference is the compression ratio and not so much displacement. Speed of flame front sort of thing. I've already lowered the ratio with a 10 tooth sprocket. There are many options but like all tuning it's best done incrementally. As for the gasket my calculation showed just adding 1mm dropped the compression ratio from 10.2:1 8.9:1. Pretty significant. Of course I don't know what the stock gasket is.
  16. I've been using Engine Ice in my Betas. It's propylene glycol so non-toxic and it's premixed to reduce the ionic contaminants that cause corrosion. NEVER use tap water. It's usually loaded with things that are bad for the metal in your cases. If you must mix water look for DI (deionized) water at the local drugstore.
  17. The hole between the resevior and the piston chamber may be blocked or improperly drilled.
  18. Well there are the two other causes of clunk I've experianced and one was a loose damper rod on a Zero which required the making of a special tool to stuff down into the fork to tighten and the other was the bearing seating issue which requires tighening the nut to reseat the bearings. For the teflon tape one or two layers only as more won't fit. Yeah it's a pain. Have you noticed most of my suggestions are? If it makes you feel any better last night I decided to swap out my combustion chamber. Bike is still in pieces. Bit more of a pain than I thought.
  19. Removing springs is really not the core of the mod. It was done just as an experiment to make the pull lighter and some tried it and had slip in the higher gears. The real benefit comes from polishing the tabs (slip and lightswitch engagement) and cleaning the glue out between the pads (cold stick). I'd be really surprised if you need a new clutch pack. Try the mod first.
  20. Ok so you probably have the old style 6 fiber plates all the same. If your bike was owned by an expert the plates could be worn from high RPM dumps. If it was owned by the typical rider your plates should be fine as far as wear. Try the mod. I think it will help.
  21. New designs will work pretty much the same if they don't do the finish work to the pieces. Look at the trouble GasGas had with their new design until they got it sorted.
  22. Yeah you gotta watch out out for your buddies while the bike is in surgery. The most frightening for me was when I was working on a friend's Subaru brakes with less than the proper safety gear. His wife, who is a sweetheart but rather, er, Rubinesque wandered over and said, "How's it going?" and leaned on the car with a thud. I never moved that fast in my life. Damn near peed myself.
  23. As always check the clutch mod thread at the top. The EVO plates are much better gluewise but the tabs still need to be polished for smooth engagement and to reduce slip. Oh yeah and you could use less oil. Some recommend 500cc and filling to the top of the sight glass is probably 600cc plus. It won't hurt anything just gives a little more hydraulic drag. Edit just reread and noticed no year on thread. 2013 and after have two thicker plates so more spring preload. Makes slippage unlikely unless someone before you put in some superslicky oil not meant for clutches. I find it usually takes three or so changes to really get things back to normal in that case. Other possibility is something like slick50 or Prolong which can permanently affect the plates. If you do the clutch mod take the plates out and give them a good wash.
 
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