dan williams

Not gonna be a lot of mosquitos in your woods! At least your buddies will know where you are.

70:1 is a super safe bet, I run as high as 100:1 on Bel-Ray HR1 without issues. The low-revving water-cooled electrofusion bore engines are a lot more tolerant than the old aircooled engines. Kinda depends on how you ride, more oil if you're going to be flat out trail riding but less for real trials plonking. Even 80:1 will puddle in the bottom of the crank at trials speed.

After I got it apart I took emory cloth to the hole where the hex adjuster comes through the cap. I think the fit was tight to begin with and corrosion mated the two pieces of aluminum together. Now that you've reminded me of this I think tonight's project will be to take the cap off my '13 and grease it up proper while it still moves correctly.

ATF shouldn't affect the shifting unless it is causing significant clutch drag. My question was aimed at finding out if you'd flushed it with something that had a "seal saver" component to it which softens seals (read deteriorates). ATF is favored by the guys who like sharp clutch action but it won't hurt the transmission or make shifting more difficult. Any good motorcycle gear oil intended for wet clutches should work fine. When the motor is not running is there a noticable difficulty moving the shift lever?

I had a similar situation with my '08 and it took some serious torque and a blowtorch to free it up. Eventually I heated it to the point where the o-rings turned to carbon before it would move. You might try a different approach and throw some penetrating oil into the cap and let it sit for a while to see if it helps.

Awesome. It's all about the fun and it sounds like you improve each time. Well done.

What did you flush it with?

Damn that is a good looking machine!

Sad to bump this thread with the news that Peter has passed on. I stated watching his youtube channel and found him to be a wonderful story teller and commenter on the human experiance. Covering everything from making ox tail soup to his description of learning about sex in an air raid shelter during the war from "Althea" who Peter described as "a kind girl". As "geriatric1927" Peter left a wealth of stories and insight on youtube that is a priceless legacy. I really wish I'd gotten to meet the man.

It is supposed to be a closed system under pressure. Think of it this way, the greater the difference between the coolant and the ambient air the more efficient the cooling system. Water boils at 100C at one atmosphere of pressure but at higher pressure the boiling temperature is higher than 100C so the cooling system is more efficient. That's why a pinhole leak in a cooling system is a problem. Not because it leaks fluid but because it depressurizes the system causing the coolant to boil. The coolant reservoir is meant only to supply coolant to replace lost fluid when the bike cools down again and the pressure in the cooling system becomes slightly less than atmospheric. This allows the system to replenish its coolant without sucking air into the system.

Congrats!

Sorry your having all these troubles griff. You'll get it sorted eventually.

Good point TLTEL.

Did you pull the flywheel to see if you sheared the key again?

The flywheel has play in and out!? That can't be good. It won't change your timing but your crank bearings are shot. The usual running backwards problem is a sheared woodruff key and a shifted flywheel.

To be honest I've never measured just set it back to the middle of the groove and adjusted from feel if I didn't think it was good.

Andy saves the day. Now if he could just keep us all from looking daft on the bike.

Unlike a points ignition that wears and changes timing the electronic ignition shouldn't need to be adjusted. Of course this means you are out of luck as far as adjusting the beastie for fine tuning. If you look at the inside of the flywheel you'll see one or two magnets are different. That is the magnet that triggers the ignition when it passes the trigger coil because the trigger coil is oriented 90 degrees from the lighting and CDI charging coils. Because of the orientation of the trigger coil the other magnets don't generate a current in the trigger coil but the zigzag looking magnet does in the form of a pulse. A microcontroller in the CDI reads the trigger signal and fires an SCR which dumps the current from a capacitor (CDI Capacitor Discharge Ignition)into the ignition coil generating a spark. I have a CDI that I de-potted (fancy word for picked the rubber goo out of) and there are programming contacts for the CDI. Too bad they don't give you access to those as you could program your own ignition curve. Probably bung it up right proper but that's how you learn. Or at least that's how I learn.

Mikuni carb, mixture screw (small one) 1.5 turns out from bottomed. Idle screw adjust until it idles where you like it. No absolute right or wrong. The mixture screw may adjust ~+/-1 turn depending on jetting and temperature.

103ft/lbs if I remember correctly. Seems quite a lot the first time you torque one on. That's why the holder tool, I reloaded the picture of in the other thread, is necessary.

I hope you got on the flywheel with a torque wrench. It takes quite a lot to keep it together.

Clutch fix pinned to the top of the Beta forum may help. They're all basically the same except for the GasGas clutch.

I think the race pack is what's standard on the 300 and I swapped mine for the older pack with all six plates the same. I like it much better.

The procedure is pinned to the top of the Beta forum in PDF form. Basically clean the glue out from between the pads and smooth the sides of the tabs on the aluminum plates that ride in the grooves of the clutch basket. It's made many happy Beta owners.

I have VForce on my Beta with the Keihin. Love 'em. The bike can pull a gear higher without stalling. It literally is the first mod I do to a new bike. The second being the clutch fix but that's a Beta thang.