dan williams

Placebo switch.

Best idea is probably pull the front end apart and reassemble with new tape on steering stem if you can feel it moving. Nice trophy. For once not MX bike.

I wouldn't just set out to ride a whole event with new jetting without trying it out with at least warming up the engine to full temp and testing for a bit. Then again I have done that.

Search for a post called "carburator cleaning" from 2010. I wrote a rather long winded description in there on the procedure. Ah here's tha link http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/29232-carburetor-cleaning/ I think that'll work.

Alright Dylan. Well done.

I have yet to find much difference between the two settings. Maybe it's between too much and slightly more too much.

One big advantage to the trials helmet is the lightness. After a few hours bouncing around on a trials bike your neck really gets fatigued with a typical helmet. Welcome to the sport. You are ours now.

Ok no panic. If turning left don't work turn right. Try going the other way on the needle. Tuning is always about fine tweaks and sometimes regardless of experience it all comes down to trial and error. Good tuners are patient.

Yes the bike is still competitive. If it's in good shape $2200 is a very good price. Look for corrosion in the water pump housing.

I'm pleased. It's nice to see something take off like that. I did a google search to see if it showed up anywhere else and I found it linked on dealer websites and other forums around the world. Neat.

Darryl, come back, I was just making a joke!

Hi Pete, on my '13 300 the retaining washers are anodized red stepped washers that you can either mount with the flat side towards the spring or with the stepped side towards the spring reducing the preload on the springs 2~3mm. Come to think of it those washers would probably retrofit a Rev3. Oh yeah, the plates rattle a bit more until they settle in. Don't worry, you won't even notice it after a while.

It's possible. Just as an experiment try dropping the needle one or two grooves. See if it runs worse around the bad throttle setting but runs better where it's bad now. You might also try a new plug cap if it's breaking up at high RPM. As always reseat connectors, clean grounds and if you have the stock kill switch bin the damn thing. They are evil.

Glad to hear it Pete. Does your bike have the stepped washers/spring retainers and if so how are they oriented?

Very common for the Mikuni equipped Betas to stall on downhills. Mostly due to the angle of the carb which is optomized for power while climbing. Once the bike is jetted properly for the flats the stall can usually be abated by proper adjustment of the floats and turning up the idle speed just a bit.

Unless you are an expert and do a lot of full throttle splats my guess is your current plates are fine and you can just do the mod on them. Over time the steel plates can get polished to the point of slippage and a quick dressing with super fine grit emory cloth will bring them back to normal.

I don't run any flywheel weights and as far as I can tell the 300 doesn't have the heavy primary side flywheel either. Zoom zoom!

Heh heh love it! With a choice of fire or chemicals I'll always go for fire too.

TLTEL, Sweet, as long as it works. I was just curious. Pete, The thicker first and last plates come standard on the 2013. Beta sold them before as a special. They increase the preload on the springs by making the clutch pack a little thicker. All plates the same is a clutch pack from the previous years. The same thing I have put in my bike. I like the older pack better. It has a much more progressive take up than the new pack. I think you'll really like it unless you are an uber expert.

Nice to know TLTEL. When you say there are grooves in some spots on the clutch drum do you mean the outer basket or the inner hub. If that's a stupid question I apologise as I'm not familiar with the innards of a GasGas. I still would like to make a jig to finish the tabs for the Beta plates as I'm sure the mod doesn't hit all basket grooves equally without a lot of file, measure, file cycles but as I said originally it's still probably better than the factory finish.

DId he just call me a bad mechanic?

Let us know how you get on. Knowledge shared is knowledge multiplied.

Cleaning up production tolerances never goes to waste. I didn't soak mine in oil as I didn't think it was a big deal. I just made sure they were free of detergent. Make sure you report back the results.

HI Pete, Just as a matter of course I did the tab polish to my '13 EVO 300. I didn't do the cleaning between the fiber pads as the glue used to hold the friction material was applied much better than the older plates. In other words it wasn't splashed over the whole plate nor was it so thick it filled the grooves between fiber pads. Even with cleaning the tabs the '13 clutch was too fast for me. When my hands got tired I had trouble modulating the clutch and was dropping stupid points. Near the end of the year I replaced the '13 fiber plates with a spare set of the polished and cleaned '08 plates and flipped the stepped washers/spring retainers and the '13 clutch is now much better. Easy pull even with six springs and super progressive.

Hi Starr, I'm unsure of the acetylene, caustic soda subjects except knowing they're dangerous. The pilot jet on a Mikuni is marked on the side. You'll see a little square logo thingy and a number. The main jets are marked on the top of the hex. Most two stroke carbs follow the same design where there are multiple circuits (air passages and fuel passages) for different throttle settings. The summary looks something like; Idle to 1/8th throttle, Pilot circuit 1/8th to 1/4 throttle, slide cutaway (That angled bit on the slide facing the airbox) 1/4 to 3/4 throttle, Needle jet and needle 3/4 to WFO, Main jet There is overlap but this is pretty much the map. The air for the pilot circuit enters in through those holes you see in the bell mouth of the carb. They also provide bleed air for the other circuits in the carb. The theory is really complex on how all these holes work. Think Doctor Who explanation of the TARDIS. All Fuely Airly wibbly wobbly. Not really necessary to know however. All you really need is the map above and to set the float height correct. There's a lot of good info on the sticky Mikuni thread at the top of the forum and the web is full of info on this type of carb as it has been standard on many two strokes over the years. Oh and when you clean the carb use compressed air to blow out the passages.