dan williams

Holy crap that's brutal.

First I've heard of it Slick.

Could be but 150 on top is a bit rich. I think stock was a 145 but I'm not sure. If you're new to trials bikes any sustained high speed work tends to purge the residual oil that puddles in the bottom of the crank. That's why you'll see the big boys rev out their bikes before a big up. Also why you'll find a lot of smokey bikes at a section after a long fast trail. Try dropping a size on the main jet and see if it helps.

Maybe it's time to forget what we know and start over. I'm not trying to be thick as I know you noted some of this already but troubleshooting sometimes requires a ground up approach. What is your current jetting? Does the bike sound like it is pinging under load? Are you using the stock heat range of plug? How does the bike run at steady throttle at different throttle settings? Has the ignition timing been changed from stock? What are the condition of your reeds? Good solid grounds? Kill switch not sticking?

Kinda what I figured Billy. Since I spend so little time up in that range.

Placebo switch.

Best idea is probably pull the front end apart and reassemble with new tape on steering stem if you can feel it moving. Nice trophy. For once not MX bike.

I wouldn't just set out to ride a whole event with new jetting without trying it out with at least warming up the engine to full temp and testing for a bit. Then again I have done that.

Search for a post called "carburator cleaning" from 2010. I wrote a rather long winded description in there on the procedure. Ah here's tha link http://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/29232-carburetor-cleaning/ I think that'll work.

Alright Dylan. Well done.

I have yet to find much difference between the two settings. Maybe it's between too much and slightly more too much.

One big advantage to the trials helmet is the lightness. After a few hours bouncing around on a trials bike your neck really gets fatigued with a typical helmet. Welcome to the sport. You are ours now.

Ok no panic. If turning left don't work turn right. Try going the other way on the needle. Tuning is always about fine tweaks and sometimes regardless of experience it all comes down to trial and error. Good tuners are patient.

Yes the bike is still competitive. If it's in good shape $2200 is a very good price. Look for corrosion in the water pump housing.

I'm pleased. It's nice to see something take off like that. I did a google search to see if it showed up anywhere else and I found it linked on dealer websites and other forums around the world. Neat.

Darryl, come back, I was just making a joke!

Hi Pete, on my '13 300 the retaining washers are anodized red stepped washers that you can either mount with the flat side towards the spring or with the stepped side towards the spring reducing the preload on the springs 2~3mm. Come to think of it those washers would probably retrofit a Rev3. Oh yeah, the plates rattle a bit more until they settle in. Don't worry, you won't even notice it after a while.

It's possible. Just as an experiment try dropping the needle one or two grooves. See if it runs worse around the bad throttle setting but runs better where it's bad now. You might also try a new plug cap if it's breaking up at high RPM. As always reseat connectors, clean grounds and if you have the stock kill switch bin the damn thing. They are evil.

Glad to hear it Pete. Does your bike have the stepped washers/spring retainers and if so how are they oriented?

Very common for the Mikuni equipped Betas to stall on downhills. Mostly due to the angle of the carb which is optomized for power while climbing. Once the bike is jetted properly for the flats the stall can usually be abated by proper adjustment of the floats and turning up the idle speed just a bit.

Unless you are an expert and do a lot of full throttle splats my guess is your current plates are fine and you can just do the mod on them. Over time the steel plates can get polished to the point of slippage and a quick dressing with super fine grit emory cloth will bring them back to normal.

I don't run any flywheel weights and as far as I can tell the 300 doesn't have the heavy primary side flywheel either. Zoom zoom!

Heh heh love it! With a choice of fire or chemicals I'll always go for fire too.

TLTEL, Sweet, as long as it works. I was just curious. Pete, The thicker first and last plates come standard on the 2013. Beta sold them before as a special. They increase the preload on the springs by making the clutch pack a little thicker. All plates the same is a clutch pack from the previous years. The same thing I have put in my bike. I like the older pack better. It has a much more progressive take up than the new pack. I think you'll really like it unless you are an uber expert.

Nice to know TLTEL. When you say there are grooves in some spots on the clutch drum do you mean the outer basket or the inner hub. If that's a stupid question I apologise as I'm not familiar with the innards of a GasGas. I still would like to make a jig to finish the tabs for the Beta plates as I'm sure the mod doesn't hit all basket grooves equally without a lot of file, measure, file cycles but as I said originally it's still probably better than the factory finish.