thall1

thanks.. i had that issue when i first bought the bike...i ran it with a fuel tap for 5/6 yrs before getting a new soleniod

Update… found the issue…. A Pin on a waterproof plug had snapped internally… it was being held in place by the grommet in the back of the plug which made it seem it was in place but in reality it was being pushed out when the connection was made

Recently my bike overheated due to the fan not working.. fitted a new regulator and all was good. bike hasn’t been used due to gearbox strip down but now all rebuilt. bike ran at home with no issues in either the engine/ gearbox or the fan. Took it out Saturday and had intermittent fan for a few minutes then I lost all 12v on the bike again?… the bike starts and runs fine with fuel solenoid on the manual position .. fan will spin with a separate 12v battery connected. The regulator has five wires on the plug… black (earth).. two yellow from the stator and two blue which I assume is 12 volts output. what should I be seeing on the input to the regulator i.e on the two yellow wires?

They all look good… there is just the faintest sign that the blackened surface finish is wearing on the shift forks… the guide disks are also unmarked… I’ve been trying to see which part of the shift drum is used on what gears to see if the wear marks are consistent with the lower gears and probably neutral but it’s tricky to see. I’m assuming they are as the bike rarely gets used in anything above 2nd and all other guides in the drum are unmarked

Dummy built back up albeit not loctited… ( still need to order the rebuild parts) all I’ve done is very gently clean up the marks on the shift drum with 800 grit… tricky trying to hold everything in place whilst spinning the mainshaft and changing gear but it seems to ok?… I’ll try again when I get another pair of hands here to help me..

Yes I was going to replace the bearing as a matter of course… not sure this could be the cause of the issue?… any thoughts on the wear marks on the selector drum?… not sure these would be enough to jam the mechanism.. they look worse than you can feel

Had a good look over everything today… the only issue I can see or find are very slight wear marks on the crowns of the gear selector drum guides, and a very slightly notchy drum bearing… other than that it all looks to be fine… I’ll try and post pictures of the drum but I wasn’t allowed last time… if I do get them posted if anyone has any opinions on wether this would be enough to stop the gears selecting I’d be greatfil to hear your thoughts?

Thanks guys…. I’ll take another good look at it all tomorrow with fresh eyes!

That’s my next plan… the shafts are fine and they don’t bind on them.. I was going to put the shafts into vee blocks and check the squareness of the selector forks. Initial inspection shows nothing up..

Yes that was my first thought that it had snapped again but it’s fine hence why I’ve now stripped the gearbox

Just to add… the gear selector drum is virtually unmarked… and the pin the locates it in relation the the ident cam is also unmarked.

Yes, I did snap the paw from the gear selector shaft. I welded it back together, making sure it was exactly the same position from when it snapped, also made a new paw slide pin as mine had quite a bit of wear, you could move the lever quite a few degrees before it actually started to turn the gear cam. Gear change was brilliant after… I could select every gear with ease, even found neutral with the engine running! ( I can’t upload a photo atm… file to big-don’t know why?… perhaps I’ve exceeded my allowance?) everything was great until the bike went down on its left side onto rocks. After that I had a lever that didn’t really do anything but unlike when I snapped the paw assembly off the shaft and the shaft would just move excessively up or down as far as the bash plate, it didn’t seem to have full movement… after quite a few tries I got 2nd and left it there…. At first I assumed I’d snapped the shaft again or something related to it …There were no strange noises or anything to suspect gears were eating themselves.. and no signs of that now it’s apart… my son rode the bike for a while and he too couldn’t find anything bar 2nd. He got neutral a few times. and yes I’m spinning the shafts while trying to change gear using the indent cam. im at a loss now!?

So casings split… nothing obvious that’s broken or damaged. Using an Allen wrench on the gear change drum on the clutch side I can get 1st, neutral and 2nd… and there it stops? always had a problem when going 2nd-3rd it felt like 2nd hadn’t fully disengaged but cleared if I went back to 2nd the up into 3rd… lovely & clean inside.. no debris or any sort to be found which in some respects is very good but was hopping to see something obvious and maybe something sat in the bottom of the casing! any thoughts would be greatly appreciated!

Just finished the pulling plate …. Let’s see what happens next!

Yes I’ll torque these bits up with the engine in the bike when I get there… just got to make a pulling plate to seperate the casings now according to the manual…

Flywheel is off.. never used the ‘sharp hammer blow’ technique before, but it worked on this one… the two Gasgas’s and Montesa 4rt that I’ve stripped previously just came off with the puller… live and learn!

Mine had this issue years ago, I disconnected the fuel solenoid and it worked fine… solenoid was shorting out internally. .. I just fitted a normal petcock rather than the solenoid

Someone else said too me… but taking a lump hammer to a precision shaft sat in bearings in an Ali casing just goes against the grain!… if all else fails I’ll give it a go!… thanks!

I do have both but haven't tried them yet. Yes I agree , probably should have come off whilst still in the bike…hindsight is a wonderful thing!..

Puller arrived… it won’t budge!… even with two of us on a spanner each!… can I put any heat on the flywheel?

Thanks guys… I’ll have a go later i can confirm it’s rh thread.. one person holding the engine and me on a breaker bar and it came free… just waiting for a flywheel puller now

Yes probably should have done it whilst still in the frame!. so just to confirm, you think the crank nut is RH thread?

Is the flywheel securing nut Lh tbread? also, what about the threads on the flywheel itself where you screw in the puller… M32x1.5 I think?.. left or Rh thread? (cant see why it should be Lh but you never know?!)

In answer to my question.. yes the pump does need to come out to lift the barrel as the water pump gear and shaft won’t allow the chain to come out… impeller was just very very tight on the shaft. Had to keep pulling with wide pliers… not nice but got it off in the end!

I’ll answer my own post for future reference! the trick is to turn the bearing retainer clip so one end is above the bearing journal.. place a thin wedge ( I used a 6” rule) between the end of the retaining ring and the face of the head to stop the retaining ring from spinning… then use a good pair of pointed pliers to carefully prize/ lift the retaining ring clear of the bearing. Once it’s off you can remove to camshaft side bearing, tilt the shaft and remove the inner bearing then drop the cam down to lift the chain clear. Note: you will need to remove the water pump and the water pump shaft from the water pump drive gear and then slide the water pump gear out to allow the chain to drop down below the head and barrel and allow the head/ cylinder to be lifted clear. You need to do this prior to lifting the cam out as the cam train holds the water pump gear solid to allow the shaft to be undone. There is a special tool to undo the water pump shaft… I didn’t have one so used a stud extractor tool. It’s pretty tight so be careful!!