thall1

I spent a weekend re-polishing a 4rt engine case’s and tank after a ‘mate’ did me a favour and sprayed neat TRF while we waited for our turn at the bike wash! I just use hot soapy water and various sized kitchen pan brushes and a tooth brush to clean...Luckily we can hose wash off the lumps at the practice woods so I can avoid power washing at home..

I suppose it could be the fan motor drawing excessive current ? You could either borrow another fan or just park a bike next to yours and wire the slave fan into your loom and see if your bike still dies with the slave fan... obviously your fan won’t be working so don’t run the bike for too long!

The rectifier has the fins.. the small black box is the fan relay

The capacitor is mounted vertically on the rectifier plate... it’s a little smaller than a ‘c’ size battery. It’s tight to the air box so the air box and throttle body needs to come out I think.

On early bikes it was mounted on the rectifier plate at the back of the engine casing. The capacitor was mounted on the rh side of the bracket .. it’s a bit of a strip down to get too it as I remember. if you do get it out have a good look at the wires that connect to it particularly the earth... mine had ‘black wire’ corrosion right back up into the loom where all the earths connect... I had to strip the loom out and replace the earths. Mine was an older bike, 2006 So hopefully yours is ok.

Have you actually tried setting at 1800?... it is quite loud... very similar to a petrol lawnmower!

sounds more like the calliper pistons are sticking?

Hope this explains how we modified the rack

Yes that’s what we had to do on ours.... also fitted two Ali tubes sticking of the back to hold the lighting board onto...Board retained with ‘R’ clips... I think it’s a better way rather than using bungee cords to strap it to the bike.. also, we took the rear wheel ‘D’ tie down bar and welded it to the front wheel support to give a strap tie down directly under the rh fork. we replaced the rear support with a piece of box section with a hole drilled in to it to take a tie down hook...if you want to I can get some pictures later

Are the brake pads low on material?... 2mm of material is the lower limit - if they are ok try bleeding the brake... plenty of tips on here already as to the best way to do that... if it’s still no good then you’ll need a new master cylinder piston kit... I suspect that’ll be the problem anyway... check the Caliper pistons for signs of leaking or corrosion... If the bike is new to you then if you change the calliper pistons as well and rear pads you’ll know the complete system is new and Shouldn’t give you any problems for a while.

Never had to remove rear spring/damper assy when I’ve removed the carb... disconnect the throttle cable from the carb and the fuel line , air box needs to come off and the silencer then it comes out of the left hand side. Don’t let it put you off buying one... it’s really not an issue

We’ve got standard air boxes on our 4t’s... it’s a little bit fiddly but no bother once you’ve done it once or twice... usually 1- 1 1/2 hrs to strip out, clean and rebuild but it’s not something you should need to do too often provided you have a good inline filter fitted.

That’s the clutch basket rattling... pretty normal for a gas gas. How much oil have you put in... usually about 450 ml for an oil change from what I can remember. check you have free play on the clutch lever... if you have and the clutch still doesn’t clear then I expect the master cylinder piston will need replacing

Just remove the hose’s

If the Beta UK site is down the try Beta USA.... they have all the manuals on their site

After six months Mine turned out to be an intermittent ecu fault... borrow one if you can and try it

Many thanks...

Any pointers for the supply of ty250 mono spares in the uk? thinking of buying a project so doing a bit of homework first before I get in too deep... I assuming it’ll need most areas looked at and rebuilt at some point... engine, brakes, linkages, rear mudguard/ seat. The gear lever looks to have been welded to the shaft... how easy is it to remove/replace the gear selector shaft? Thanks in advance...

Did you take bled?

Adjust the clutch lever with full travel and a mm or two of free play. Fill the reservoir and then remove the bleed nipple. Put plenty of rags around the hole and start to pump the lever slow and steady. Hopefully you’ll get fluid out eventually. Once you do put the nipple back in and bleed as normal. Clutch should come up fairly quickly. You can try vacuum bleeding using a syringe. If you can’t pull the syringe then the nipple needs to be opened a bit more. if you don’t get fluid out of the slave cylinder without the nipple fitted then either the hose is blocked, lever isn’t adjusted correctly or the seals have gone on the master cylinder. Bleed nipple, as all nipples will need to be opened half a turn at least... you may get a bit of leaking around the thread when it’s loose.. Rear brake will take time and patience. try the same sort of procedure... remove the hydraulic line on the top of the master cylinder and push fluid back from the nipple until it flows out the line. Refit the line, fill the reservoir and crack open the banjo on top of the master cylinder in order to ‘bleed’ the master cylinder... just pump the rear brake lever slow and steady a few times to pump fluid out.. tighten the banjo and try bleeding as normal. Good luck!

Lots of tips on here with brake and clutch bleeding... why are you bleeding them?.. has anything been changed on the systems?

Put a saw cut under the head of the plastic bolt if you want to go a bit further to help save the rear fender

Fixed with a new woodruff key?

The air screw is under the carb... very difficult to get to unless you have an ‘exteneded’ airscrew from Jitsie or similar... I extended my original one with a bigger dia wheel so I can just about get to it

Just double check inside the air box to carb rubber tube... I had a bike once that was carrying a ‘spare’ that had been forced up inside of tube