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Just looked in my notes... rh - 60mm air gap approx 400ml lh - 120mm air gap 350-370ml after slowly pumping the cartridge to expel the air

If you look on BetaUk website under the ‘support’ tab you can down load the manuals. My 2013/2014 bikes have an air gap of 60mm rh fork and 120mm lh fork. Slightly different than the manual but as advised by beat uk

When I spoke to beta UK for 2013 & 2014 4t fork air gaps they suggested 60mm rh and 120 Lh. on the right fork did you gently pump the cartridge to expel all the air from inside it?... also I do the rh first and leave it with the cap off while I do the left.. that way the all the smaller air bubbles generated after pumping the cartridge have a chance to float out.

Don’t be fooled!... we’ve gone through three Bosi front mudguards !!

Seal kits are online but if you order from beta UK via their website it’s all post free and their prices aren’t inflated being a main importers .... doubt you’ll need new cylinders for the rear brake but may need calliper piston kit and/or master cylinder piston kit. as for the rear mudguard only a beta item will fit ...plenty of aftermarket front mudguard on line that’ll do the job if you need to replace that at any point.

Just put a new piston kit in... you’ve already changed lots as it’s been stood... you may as well change it out then you know you’ve got a good hydraulic system... if it still doesn’t work (doubtful!)..then you can look at the clutch pack

Assuming the free play in the lever is set up correctly then the master cylinder is most likely the issue... the slave will be just one or two O rings so shouldn’t be expensive. The master cylinder piston kit wouldn’t be too expensive £30 or so...if you want the clutch to work correctly then it’ll need to be changed... as it’s been stood for a while you may as well change the slave seals so then you have a ‘new’ clutch operating system...

it probably needs a new clutch master cylinder piston kit and changing the slave cylinder seals also would give peace of mind.

Gas gas manuals and exploded diagrams are available via GasGas UK website ... they don’t list the type of bearing but do show the sizes of the bearing and seals... you may find it easier to order from GasGas UK unless you wait until you can strip the gearbox to determine the type of bearings and seals hope the link below works ... https://gasgas.com/index.php?mact=CGExtensions,cntnt01,getfile,0&cntnt01_d=QTQ3M0VDRzloemNNR2dMYTZzaC9yWHpncS9XZVUzLy9lbVhFWHFGT1Q0NkNsbDMzejJGMG9tRmloTzJzUXhYWDVPRG82WGVobzRHbjdMT3NiWUN6aUhjNC8wdUoySXlacnM3MGw5RUtza0VaaDJNWEJtdUd0MzVTZEpDbnJjbDdpeGVwK0tHeXJYakFodXl3WlE3RVZ6NzcweDFiSkU2YnlEbm9TS1RxU2ZjPTo6naNjHHXyLmvefD6g7EKrKA%3D%3D&cntnt01returnid=1&showtemplate=false

I did have a beta 4t that run hot... fan came on as normal but stayed on ... not unusual for a 4t but it spat out its water after being sat for a while on idle ... it was ok if the bike was actually moving...turned out the fan was running relatively slowly, so wasn’t giving the desired cooling...you could try comparing yours to another similar bike if possible

Usually I keep a few links that I’ve taken off a new chain in the past.. if you don’t have spare links you could just get a new split ink or two or half links to suit your current chain and add then in. if your changing both sprockets then it may be worth putting a new chain on anyway? Most trials shops will have split links and half links in stock and may have small sections of chain hanging around. you will need to establish what make chain you have as some ‘520’ chains have different pin dia depending on brand.. the brand should be stamped on the chain side plates. if you find you need a ‘half link’ then I think ‘Regina’ chains are the only ones that supply them to fit their make of chain

Have you got it running yet?

One obvious thing .... I don’t suppose you’ve adjusted the idle too low?... you could just open up the idle screw on the throttle body.. large brass screw on the right hand side ... I thinks about 3 1/2 turns out should be about it but you could go a bit more to be sure.. idle needs to be 1800 rpm or it won’t start

Sorry just re read and you’ve already removed the bank angle!

To link out the bank angle disconnect the sensor and link the two outside wires on the loom plug to override the ecu

Do you know someone with a similar bike to swop components over? This is probably the easiest way to trouble shoot without buying bits needlessly. check the basics first like the earth points... there is a yellow multi plug under the headstock with the earths in plus one on the coil. ecu multiplug is clean with no corrosion on the pins and all other electrical plugs are intact/clean ..same with the injector multiplug... there is a two pin black plug under the tank for the fuel pump, and a bunch under the seat next to the left hand side of the air box. you can try putting a 12v supply direct to the fuel pump... this will prove the pump is working if you disconnect the fuel line to show fuel out of the hose but it does pump at a good rate so beware also this will illuminate issues with the capacitor not having enough juice to power the pump and ecu.. you can try starting the bike with a 12v feed on the pump... if it does start I would suggest the capacitor is U/S or the wires from it are corroded not sure if the ecu checks for spark before fuel or the other way around?... someone will confirm. there is a regulator just in front of the rear spring... can’t remember now if this is ‘spark’ related but I’m sure someone will advise.

I would only suggest linking it out rather than removal... only because I believe they have been known to play up on some bikes..

personally I'd disconnect the tilt switch/bank angle sensor and I think from memory, you have to join the outside wires on the loom to fool the ECU, someone will confirm, then fit a lanyard...

I ride the TRS R one at a test day... it was great!...

Water pump shaft seal... it’s a lip seal that wears and also the actual shaft also wears where the seal runs on the shaft.

There is a rectifier or regulator behind the head stock under the tank for the fan... these are known to fry at times ... ticking could have been this unit cooking. If you find it and it’s bulging at the sides it’s bust!

there is actually 3 filters...one paper under the filter cover and two plastic 'tube' filters, one either side of the crankcase, behind a 12mm hex head bolt. These just need a swill out. Easier overall than removing the side casing on the 4RT and only one oil required and cheaper than the recommended Elf for the 4RT Valve clearance requires disconnection as stated by 2stroke4stroke above but you also need to remove the radiator and forward side frames. a couple of hours work. TBH its not much more to remove the engine all together which would make setting them a doddle and more accurate, plus you can service the swing arm bushes then as well. we had an older 2007 4rt... unfortunately it suffered from a few faults that were difficult to trace without a spare bike to swap components...turned out to be an intermittent ECU fault. now we have two Beta 3004T's.... finish machined quality probably isn't up to the Honda standard but its plenty good enough. Having a carb makes fueling issues easier to remedy - although in theory the ECU shouldn't go wrong but its not unknown! I believe the plastics are more durable now than earlier models brakes not as good as some other bikes - recently rode a new 4T and a new TRS at a test day...brakes on the TRS were superb - disappointed with 4T brakes TBH! suspension on the TRS was lovely but as a novice rider I couldn't 'out-ride' the beta ..and im sure a better rider wouldn't really find an issue either... lower idle makes 'chugging' easier - for me at least, my son can still wind his up and let it go as he did with the 4RT...if I try it, it leaves me behind! - I was originally looking for an Evo 250 4T after having ridden a 250 Rev4t but I don't find an issue with having the 300...its not as docile but you get used to it...increasing age and fear is now my enemy rather than the extra 50cc! being a Beta, the steering gives a tighter turn. cheaper 2nd hand but obviously cheaper again if you sell it on.. Overall, more than happy with the Beta4T's we have... not looking to change at all.... Cant say either of us would go back to a Montesa 4T but If I were changing, and after the test day, I could be tempted by a TRS! probably a 250TRS oneR if I had the funds. all I can say is if you can then test ride one for a bit and try before you buy..

GasGas recommended ATF dextron lll in 2013...see page 4 https://nanopdf.com/download/protechnicalbulletinusajuly222013_pdf

Found it online https://nanopdf.com/download/protechnicalbulletinusajuly222013_pdf#

Gasgas put out a technical bulletin some years ago recommending ATF..I used to have a copy but I’m sure it’s still online somewhere