thall1

The manuals are online.. Go to beta USA website.. My 2013 4t says 70mm and 130mm.... I spoke to beta uk and they said to reduce air gap to 60/120....

Here's what I did...

I had the same problem on my 2013 evo 4t...turned out to be the fuel solenoid shorting out internally....disconnect the solenoid - 2 pin plug - open the tap to give continuous fuel flow....then try it.... the new solenoid is around £90+ from beta uk..I tried finding an alternative but couldn't... in the end I bought a cheap fuel tap for around £3.00 and made a new connecting block to connect it to the tank...if you want I can up load a photo later?

have a look on 'Beta usa'...they show a trials bike history with pictures of the bikes and a brief description.....assuming your forks are original it appears they only produced bikes with gold forks in 96, 97 & 98...but not 280cc only 250 as the biggest engine.....you could try calling Beta uk and giving them the frame number....usually found on the head stock on modern bikes.....good luck

If it has to run on choke it's not getting enough fuel or more than likely it's got too much air - it'll be an air leak from the carb to engine... Is the rubber boot between the carb and engine the right way round?...on the 4t it is designed to fit only one way round...there is only a slight difference on each end of the boot but there is a difference.

Posting on behalf of a mate: 2010 sherco 290. When running it starts fine but when left for a few days it won't start. Plug has a spark but is also wet when removed. New plug fitted, carb cleaned and checked for airbox to carb leaks etc. But nothing seems to solve the issue. One thought is that it's slowly flooding over a period of time?... There's no fuel tap just a plastic box with what we presume is a pressure feed system to the tear mounted tank. Does anyone know what's in this sealed box? .. One way valves or pressure seals? all pipes to and from this box appear to be 'open' so not sure how it's supposed to work?

There is a top hat bush either side of the rose joint bearing behind the rubber seal . Bushes are pressed in and seem to be quite tight ( at least they are on mine). Once the top hat is out you can drive the bearing out of the shock

have a look on beta uk or beta usa..both have parts manuals to download and the beta usa site also has manuals...

Give Steve a call at 'Uk Motoplat' 01209 482223. or West Country windings on 01279 731172. Ive used Motoplat for a gas gas repair in the past.

this is the 'ignition generator check' as per an Evo 2013 4t manual (pg66) found on beta usa website under 'support'.....the check may be suitable for yours...... Disconnect black 12 way between the generator and CDI Disconnect the white 2 way connector between the generator and the wiring Black-White (pick-up) 320 ohm +/- 15% Red-Blue (condenser charging) 15 ohm +/- 15% ......not sure the 2008 has a condenser/capacitor on it? yellow-yellow (Service power supply) 0.6 ohm +/- 30% after having stripped a Montesa 4rt and a beta 4t loom i'd say the wiring seems to be generally pretty poor on the beta so it could just be a bad connection. There are some wiring diagrams on the Beta usa sight that are readable but they are from later bikes -2014 onwards I think, but it may give you a clue... good luck!

I guess they are either old Paoili stock or made by Sachs using the original tooling hence the Paoili cast name on them.. Either way the design will be Paoili I guess...

I did read somewhere that the frame year - B in your case is not necessarily the model year so it could be a MY2012 bike with a frame produced in 2011..So plastics/colour scheme may be correct. BetaUSA have a history page on their website showing different model year bikes that may help you to identify it or call beta uk... They may be able to contact Beta Italy for confirmation if they don't have records

thanks for the info, I have noefound a cast part number on the inside of the fork and the name - Pailoli....

I've looked in the manual and can't see what brand the front forks are?... Anyone got any ideas?

Could also check the chain tensioner is in line with the chain and not twisted, bent inwards or outwards from the normal chain line or excessively loose on its mounting spigot/ bolt..

have a look at the capacitor....mine had corrosion on the black wire that had gone back up into the loom...I replaced the capacitor and cut out the corroded wire which helped the poor starting...from what I was led to believe the capacitor provides approx. 5v to the ECU prior to it starting.... I did also have in intermittent ECU issue which also gave poor starting....when this was plugged in to the diagnostics it read as a temp fault, the temp switch was changed but it still read the same fault, turned out to be a faulty ECU.

you may find it easier ( and in my experience, a better result) if you bleed in the normal way to get the majority of the air from the system, adjust the levers to give the correct free play and travel, then tie the lever back to the bars with the reservoir cap removed or at least loose and leave for a few days... the system will (or should) self bleed....from time to time, I also leave the front and rear brakes tied in between rides, just to keep them pumped up.

This is my carb

the green and two red are breather/overflow pipes and would normally be joined...into a tee piece then a single pipe running down toward the bottom of the shock. The top blue should be capped off....this is used to balance the carb in a multi carb set up

ALL FIXED!!...stator turned out ok...dodgy meter probe threw me off line!...fitted a second regulator/rectifier but still didn't get 12v....had the bike running and for some reason I disconnected the fuel solenoid.....revs went up slightly and the meter read 10.5v!! thanks for all your replies!

just checked the stator, the 'service power supply' ohm reading of 0.6 ohm doesn't appear to be there....looks like this could be the problem...?

thanks guys....just managed to get into the back of the rectifier and there is only 2 volts output.....new one on order....the bike starts and runs fine so stator side is ok

Fan isn't rubbing...if I put a 12volt supply on it then runs ok nice and smooth.....2v is from the fan connection on the loom side....I also have 2 volts from the redundant lighting connections. The 'loop' that was connected to the front light connector has been removed. Any ideas which wires to use to check the regulator output?...ive had a look at the drawing on line and cant really make it out

im only getting 2volts at the fan....its running but very slowly.....and engine overheats ive had a look at the wiring diagram on line but cant quite make it out...its not very readable - any one got a better copy? Anyone got any ideas where the voltage is going?

Cheers !... Seems I printed off an early evo wiring diagram and it doesn't show a capacitor