thall1

Just bought a 2013 evo 4t...i have found a capacitor in amongst the wiring by the carb.... I can't see it on the wiring diagram... Any ideas what it does?

Hi thanks for the reply... What I can't work out though is why the redundant light 2 pin connection would be bridged across?... If you disconnect the lights why would you need to bridge the redundant connector?

Just bought a 2013 evo 4t...the lights and light control switch have been removed ... After having a look over the bike I have noticed that under the right hand side frame cover what I think is a connector for the light loom to light switch- with a blue and a white/blue wire has been linked together?.. Any ideas why this should be?

multi earth plug is under the tank pushed up under the head stock...its a yellow plug with about 8 or 9 earth wires. you can unclip the back of the plug and remove the multi blade connection strip and give it a bit of a clean. I think the post above referred to my bike with an ECU issue. Before it really started to play up it too 'missed' every now and again, then it got to a point where it would only run with a separate 12v power source on the pump. This was due to a faulty capacitor and 'black wire' corrosion from the capacitor into the loom giving high resistance. Once this was fixed the over fuelling and general poor running was due to a faulty ECU. At first it read as a temp sensor fault so the thermo switch in the radiator was changed but it turned out to be the ECU not reading the temp correctly....try swopping the ECU with another bike for a days riding and see how you go...

if you can, swop the ECU with another bike, if you still have an issue check/replace the temp sensor in the bottom of the rad - about £25 from memory...

sorry forgot to say ive used the sealant on the break to seal it rather than use sealant instead of the gasket...

you could try looking for one to fit a CRF engine....its the same basic engine...just give the part number to any Honda dealer..dont tell them its a montesa , just ask for the gasket...pt no 11395-nn4-000...they usually break where the triangle shaped wire grommet fits...if that's where its broken, or anywhere else for that matter, ive used flexible engine gasket sealant in the past and it works fine...

I sorted my 2006 clutch earlier this year...I posted my 'fix' on 24th may.....the cure was to dress the clutch basket finger edges and remove the very slight ripples on the faces, - the ripples don't look much but they will catch the clutch plates... put a defined chamfer on the basket finger inside edges (0.5mm at least) and on the fingers of the clutch plates....I did fit dimpled clutch plates last year and it did reduce the drag but this fix eliminated it....I use ATF with no drag at all now....

air leak from the carb to the air box?

sounds like and ECU issue....borrow an ECU/throttle body if you can and try it....it may not give you the same performance as the original but at lower revs it should be ok, if the problems go away you have your answer...good luck

although the fan is cutting in/out....just check that the radiator fins are not blocked with mud/grit etc. Mine looked fine until I took it out to repaint it and found that it was close to 50% blocked despite a real good clean after every ride and a lot of the fins had been damaged by pressure washing (I don't pressure wash so it was done by the previous owner).....Mine used to have a hot tank when riding and the fan used to cut in/out fine however, after a proper clean and straightening out & removing the most damaged fins the fan stays off for longer and no more hot tank....

I know the 4rt clutch has been discussed before but I have been trying to sort mine and think I found an answer (there may be others!). mine is a 2006 4rt - in the past I've used Elf, Putoline GP10 and ATF dextron II & III with the same results - a dragging clutch... At best I get a lurch forward when selecting 1st or 2nd from neutral, at worst I cant change gear. I did fit dimpled plates last year, the first time that I started the bike up and put into gear I shot across the garden... the eventual fix was to de-burr the shear edge formed when they had been stamped out. This edge was rounded off with a file and polished and the clutch drag improved but was still there to a degree. Again using Elf or Putoline didn't improve things over using ATF so I've stayed with ATF - its cheaper! Over the last few weeks the gear change has been getting worse... to a point where its impossible to change gear. The basket has been out a few times, all the internal linkage is in good order and without the basket in the bike it will go through the gears with ease... On the fingers of the basket on the driving side, there were the lightest of ripples on the face. I had already filed some of the ripples out some time ago, this time I filed them out completely, draw-filed them smooth and then polished the faces with 400 grit wet/dry paper and put a 1mm chamfer on the inner edge. I also put a 0.5mm chamfer on the friction plate fingers that run in the basket. The result is a gear change that is effortless!...I can go up and down the gears with ease and I can even find neutral which until now was only achievable with the bike not running, still with relatively cheap ATF in the bike... this may not work for others but it maybe another option if you have issues......

to link out the bank angle sensor link the two outside connectors on the loom side plug.....if you just remove it the bike wont start !

was it a new throttle body with the ECU or a second hand one?..... I had starting problems that were compounded by fitting a duff used throttle body in the belief that it was good. If you have the old condenser, strip back the wiring and check that you don't have 'black wire' corrosion in the wires. If you do, check the loom side wiring as the corrosion will travel up into the loom and you wont get the a good voltage into the loom from the condenser. If there is corrosion the two wires are approx. 10" long from the plug before they join into the loom via 'crimp' connectors. The loom will come out with removing the throttle body , tank and airbox. This should allow you to remove it with a bit of fiddling and its easier to remover the fan relay with the loom rather than try and disconnect it on the bike. Try connecting a 12v battery directly to the pump in order to power it up independent of the bike condenser/voltage system. If the bike runs I would suggest you have a bad connection/corrosion on the loom side of the condenser electrical plug, a bad connection on the fuel pump connector or as in my case also a duff ecu. With the fuel pump disconnected, connect a voltage meter to the loom side of the fuel pump black 2pin connector and kick it over, the first kick should show approx. 9v then 12.5v plus on the second kick. The voltage increases as the condenser (which is just a capacitor/battery) charges and discharges into the electrical system. If its lower than this I would suspect corrosion/bad connection on the condenser connector/loom wires. Apart from the earth on the coil, all other earth wires are fed into a common yellow block under the tank just behind the head stock. If you unclip the top of the plug you can lift out the connector rail for all the earth connectors and check for corrosion. good luck

Engine between 0.4 - 0.6 ltr.....put in 0.4ltr, run the bike for 3 mins then check level with dipstick just pushed into hole, don't screw it in to check. (I find its close to 0.6ltr even without an oil filter change) Transmission is 0.54ltr

give Steve a call at Motoplat - Bradford Ignitions (uk) 0044 (0)1209 482223.... he can test and repair the stators but will also know the static test figures....

yes you do and the swing arm pivot shaft. Note there are two pinch bolts on the rear of the gearbox casing holding the pivot shaft in place. I also removed the tank, seat/rear mudguard, air box, carb and radiator/fan assy.

I found that when I ran the bike in the garden without letting it warm up the plug failed - this happened a few times but not since letting it warm up before riding....

that much? was that for 'made to measure' ones or from their stock springs?

Jeff, did you new get new springs?

I too took 2 springs out after being on a gasgas for a few years as I found the 4RT clutch far too 'switch' like. I gave Flexisprings , kingswood, Bristol a call - they have a range of 'stock' springs and I found a spec that would be close to the original dia but slightly shorter in length (a washer may be needed under the spring?) but a set of 6off 'new springs' would be equivalent in compression force to 5off springs (or close too) of the original set of 6off. If I can find the details on the email I will post it on here but if not you can drop them a line with the spring dimension's,- dia, length, number of full coils and the wire dia and they will give you the spring rate. from that you can choose from their range of stock springs....from memory I think a set of 6off were around the £20 mark (minimum order charge) In the end I left it with the two springs out as I only ride in the woods and rarely get out of 2nd gear so I didn't notice any clutch slip.... would be interesting to see how you get on if you do use their springs....

forgot to say its an 2008

yes i do have a 4rt but we also have a Beta 4t as well...haven't used the bike much but hot start doesn't make any difference to starting... starts ok when hot on the stand but after its been on its side its a bit of a pain....

has anybody found that this modification works?

HRMAD....can you tell me where you got the decal set from for your 4RT?