thall1

Have you tried restarting it again? check that the throttle cable outer hasn't come out of the ferrule on the throttle or at the carb. You may find that's its all as it should be so you may not find anything wrong with the cable now, it may have re-fitted its self... if you have a tapered rubber grommet at the throttle, try putting a cable tie around both ends to secure it to the throttle housing and then to the outer throttle cable to stop the outer coming away from the ferrule on the throttle

The manuals and parts diagrams are online to download... Can't remember the site now but you should be able to find it... Once you get the part numbers you can try Honda dealers... My local one wouldn't supplier parts for a Montesa but if I just asked for the part with a part number I could get it!... Otherwise there's plenty of Montesa dealers in the uk who can supply parts quickly even if they arnt in stock..

Top right tube vents to atmosphere around the top front of the carb. The 'Y' piece vents to the around the bottom of the rear shock. The peice you have left over is the bottom of the 'Y'

Is it off a beta 4t?.. If so look on the beta forum and there are clear pictures and references...here's a picture of mine that I posted last year..

https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/64968-what-do-these-tubes-do-evo-4t/?do=findComment&comment=455616 the above link...if i've done it correctly, should take you to some photos I posted in Oct 17 showing the tubes on the carb

the two drain pipes from the carb go into a 'T' piece....I think this is the final drain from the 'T' and the end sits down by the bottom of the shock...I have seen it tucked into the rectifier bracket that sits on the back of the engine case.

I expect it was the idle low....take the bank angle link out and try it again?

correction to my earlier post...and as 'the dabster' said above, I ordered from John Lee Motorcycles and NOT john Lampkins

My son turned the idle down slightly on his bike on the second day of ownership ... Took a fortnight to get it started again!... Can't remember which way you adjust the idle now but it's in the manual which I found on line.. I think I reset it to 3 1/2 turns out and it started first kick! It has to be 1800rpm on idle... If your not used to a 4rt it seems high but without this high setting it won't run.

I bought a replacement Bosi front mudguard before Xmas.. I'm pretty sure I went to John lampkin...they had all colours in stock but not the black one I needed!.. Took a month to get it in from Italy. Bosi only listed a front mudguard with the bracket ... Lampkins sold them seperatly so that was a result!

If you've got the '2009-2012 evo 4 stroke engine' manual from the 'Trials Service Manual' section then the procedure is on page 66-67 with the TDC lock bolt instructions in section 4.11 on page 51-52. Youll need to rotate the engine to get the piston at TDC...I use someone rotating the back wheel with the chain on to rotate the engine until both sets of tappets are loose. Remove the locking bolt from the front of the engine and you can just see inside the casing to see a notch in the crankshaft. If you remove the thick copper washer from the lock bolt and then screw it back in then it should tighten flush to the casing if the engine is at TDC. If it stops before it tightens flush your not at TDC. Once locked you can adjust the tappets... It's a tight squeeze on the inlets but it can be done. The tappets have a rotating bucket on the end which comes into contact with the top of the valve stem. You'll need to rotate and move this around to get the feeler guage to slide under. You will also need to carefully bend the end of the feeler guage approx 1" from the end as close to 90deg and also grind away each side of the end of the feeler so it's only about 5-6mm wide to make it easier to get under the tappet bucket. Don't forget to remove any burrs from the feeler guage after grinding away or the gaps may be too big. To be sure you are setting them different to the original setting take a picture of the screw slots on the top of the adjuster in order to compare before and after positions. You may find you have to set them and rebuild the engine and see what it sounds like/starts like and then do it again if it's not right. Its difficult to judge the pinch of the tappet on the feeler guage as room is limited but from my experience I've gone for a firm pinch on a 2014 300 and it starts and runs fine but there is still a slight rattle compared to our other 2013 300... It may be timing chain noise? good luck

Beta Uk will supply the bits needed. Go to their website, download the parts list/diagram to find the part numbers then go onto the 'shop' site to order. If the rubber boots aren't listed separately then try ebay and I have bought some from BVM. You need to get the correct ones to fit the Grimica master cylinders

ive used a Dave Cooper rack with both a 4RT and a Beta4T for a number of years... no issues with the rack at all

Hi, I've had both a 4RT (2007) and now we've both got beta 4T's (2013 & 2014)....4RT is a lovely bike, great build quality but if goes wrong, as mine did...it can be a pain to sort out, its difficult without a donor bike to swap bits with to find the problem or problems...mine was a defective capacitor with loom corrosion and an intermittent ECU fault all at the same time!....just unlucky I guess but it almost became a scrap bike. Beta 4T build quality isn't quite up to 4RT standard but not far off overall..its simpler with the carb, starts just as easily apart from maybe when its been on the floor or stalled...usually find full throttle sorts it out... but no different to a 4RT ECU reset really . Beta turns better and I (and my son) find them easier at slow/low throttle to control. Clutch isn't quite so switch like either. given a choice of bikes, I and my son would now go for the Beta 4T... as mentioned earlier, try first for as long as possible...good luck

Yes good point htrdoug... Havnt had a problem yet like that but the lace tether is short... Only just long enough to go from the magnet to my wrist... So hopefully it won't get snagged

Due to the elastic I've had a few ping off my wrist....luckily we've managed to find them again after a bit of hunting... I've swop the elastic for a shortened boot lace about 8" long so there is very little spare lace hanging down asking to be caught ...works for me and as the elastic ages it tends to stretch so if you need to shut off in a hurry you can't just flick your arm away.. With a lace the emergency stop works every time!

hi thanks for that... it now sounds similar to my sons, I might take out the tensioner and have a look.... I did try to reset it but it didn't move...

Did you get it sorted?.. Just adjusted the tappets on my sons... Did it a few times but it's still a bit noisier than mine.. Just wondered if you found the cause of your noise?

Try Steve at 'uk Motoplat Bradford ignitions'... There are some figures and testing procedures on his website

Hi, my solenoid failed... Seized and shorted out internally which caused flooding and a slow running fan. I took it apart but there's nothing that you can do with it really. New solenoid for a 2013 was £120 I think... I machined an adapter plate and fitted a fuel tap directly to the tank outlet. Bike runs fine. Still floods if it's been on its side but no different to my sons 2014 4t with a working solenoid. We find on both bikes that if it doesn't restart after a couple of kicks then it will if you keep the throttle wide open.

Hi guys, its a 2013 4t... sometimes when going from 2nd to 3rd it sounds and feels like its still semi engaged in 2nd and 3rd at the same time?...the first time I thought it sounded like the chain was tangled up in something. I re selected second and rode for a few yards the went to 3rd with no problem.... it doesn't happen very often, probably 3 or 4 times over the last 6 months... oil & filter is changed every 5-6 rides. motul 5000 10-40...also used in a rev4t and a 2014 4t. nothing shows up when the oil is drained, sump plug is clean, so i'm not desperate to start digging around but any ideas what I should be looking for if I do decide at some point to strip it down?

gear oil will also over time swell the clutch plates...I've found that ATF oil has a greater effect on the clutch plates swelling but ATF is considerably cheaper than Putoline and the like so given that, I chose to use ATF and sand the clutch plates down once a year or so...

I'm pretty sure the rim offset is 25mm measured from the outer face of the brake disc to outer rim of the wheel. This is the dimension I used on a 2004 txt...

The fibre plates swell slightly increasing the pack height over a period of time, the steel plates don't change. All I've done in the past is remove and clean the oil from the fibre discs with acetone or celelouse thinners. Then gently rub both sides on a sheet of 320 or 400grit wet/dry paper placed on a good flat surface. As your rubbing the plate try to keep rotating it to rub evenly. Blow off the dust that's left and remeasure the pack height. It doesn't take much to get it down to 9.75mm so you don't need to put much pressure when your rubbing down. You can also give the steel plates a good run over with coarse sandpaper to take the glaze off. It will help to stop any clutch drag for a while until they glaze back up again.

Yes it will go back together... Should just be a small o ring between the joint... You'll probably be able to re use it