thall1

any idea why Sheffield was not part of the FIM x trial?

sorry for the delay.... sump plate was made as well...also out of 5mm. I added two strips on the bottom to stiffen it up and to act as sacrificial plates should I hit something too hard....

Missed that one!!

I made a water pump and a similar flywheel case guard for my bike out of 5mm Ali... Not too difficult and I can confirm they do work well!!

I made a water pump and a similar flywheel case guard for my bike out of 5mm Ali... Not too difficult and I can confirm they do work well!!

Having trouble getting hold of a capacitor.. From the manual it's 10000uF but does anyone know the voltage? I can get 16v ones which is the closest I can get to the 12v output of the bike or should it be higher?

hi, my meter wont read uf...need to get a new capacitor any way as both the wires from the capacitor through the 2 pin connector and then back into the loom to within an inch or so of the next connection point are black with corrosion - about 30" of cable has now been replaced. I have removed both the male and female spade connectors from connection block and they too are heavily corroded where the cable is crimped on although the actual spade connection are quite clean. I have had these plugs apart on numerous occasions recently so I presume they have been scrapped clean when being disconnected/connected. I will get a new capacitor on order in the new year and go from there...hopefully this is the cause of the problems I have been having with starting the bike ever since I got it....you cant start it with the usual firm push on the kick start... it has always had to be kicked like a two stroke. On an earlier test the output from the 12v connection block under the tank was half that of a similar aged bike that's starts easily with a gentle push on the kick start....I have previously carried out a continuity check but not a resistant check on the all the earths and that was ok. I'll let you all know in the new year if this was the problem....fingers crossed it is!

Just checked the capacitor using a digital multi meter with the meter test leads held onto the capacitor connector pins...at first I was getting some resistance readings slowly increasing steadily to 1.9 on the 2K ohm range than a return to OL....but the initial reading upon connection was not a constant repeatable reading... after trying to repeat the test again I was then just getting an OL reading....I then made some fly leads to connect onto the connector pins and again just got an OL reading. Assuming the capacitor was faulty I cut the plug off and bared the wires - both the leads are black with corrosion. After cleaning the leads I am now getting a constant repeatable reading of 17.65 MoHm with no return to OL....my guess is the capacitor has failed?....I cant read the capacitance as the identification has worn off....

Jonny/Honda freak....thanks very much for the info....once Santa is out the way I will have a look.... thanks very much

latest is: I put my throttle body, injector assy, and fuel tank on a friends bike.... bike started first kick! just to be absolutely sure I stripped the engine down to piston/barrel... all ok... now the loom has been stripped back....all earth and positive feed wires have been checked for bad connections/high resistance... again all ok. I'm now left with stator and coil pickup, capacitor and rectifier... one question...I have read somewhere that the capacitor 'smooths out' the voltage....I always was thought it was to provide a 12v supply to power the ecu?... Im just wondering if its this that has been playing up and not storing or putting out enough voltage when its being kicked over?

its not the injector or the fuel regulator...the unit has been fitted to another bike and it ran fine...Chris200 - thanks for the offer to use your bike...your not too far away but I have some bikes closer.... Just checked the cam timing-spot on... and using a plunger on the piston the TDC is ok as well...no excessive clearance on one inlet valve to suggest a stuck open inlet valve...

the fuel feed line .....item 8

the idle is set ok. Turning it up or down makes no difference....the engine only runs with the fuel line disconnected on the fuel in the injector...I have after many very short engine runs managed to get it going with the pump connected but it appears to be running rich. Once the engine is warm it will start without much problem but when its left to get cold overnight it wont start. If the bike is kicked over without the fuel line connected but the tank electrical plug made then the pump works.

why would that be an issue? the bike has ran for a couple of years (a few issues over that time but all sorted eventually) until now with this particular problem....

no numbers on the throttle body....there is a silver sticker on the body but nothing on it....why do you ask?

right here goes!..... ive had numerous starting issues with this bike now I have another. Bike would not start at the weekend. (again!) After much investigation and testing listed below the bike will only run if the bike is kicked once to prime the injector and then the tank pump disconnected...it will then start (after two kicks) and run for a few seconds on the fuel sat in the injector. If I re-connect the pump it floods and its just a wet plug...not even a hint of starting? if I connect the pump whilst its running the engine dies. all electrical tests as per manual ok. 12v output at the plug under tank. good earths at yellow plug and to and from the ECU. new plug. new HT lead and plug cap (used a new car HT lead). fuel line disconnected and plenty of fuel being pumped whilst kicking over. Electrical pulse to the injector tested with a test lamp - regular pulses seen at lamp injector tested on a 12v battery.... injector tested whilst connected to the pump.....good spray of fuel and it does not appear to be leaking fuel from the injector with the injector closed but whilst still under fuel pressure. still wondering if the injector is leaking fuel into the barrel? hence the flooding or the spark seen outside the bike with the tank pump connected is not good enough once its in the bike and is washed out by the fuel? Where does the ECU get a signal from to pulse the injector at the correct time/stroke of the engine? Thoughts please?!

if the timing is ok try opening up the idle on the throttle body to 2 1/2 - 3 turns...My son turned our bikes idle down when we first got it without me knowing....took a month to get it going again!.....thanks again to Alan Bird @ Feetuptrials!!

I put 12v onto the pump and fuel was pumped out at a high rate so 'tea bag' filter should be ok.... tried starting the bike with the take lifted off to make sure pump connector wasn't being dislodged...still nothing!...will look again over the weekend....

I should have left it alone or kept my GASGAS!! I checked the earth plug under the tank....all seemed ok but thought as i'm here I may as well give it a clean just to be sure ....put it all back together now it wont start at all!! I have got a spark, and a good one at that but that's as far as it goes!.... double checked al the resistance readings from the manual, linked out the bank angle sensor, put 12v on to the pump to make sure it works, and it does.....continuity checked all earths and they are ok....checked all harness plugs either side for continuity - all ok....but it wont run ....plug is dry but not sure if the ECU is shutting down fuel due to an issue somewhere else?..... bike was running before it went away two weeks ago.....

hi, all earths are clean and the tick over is at 1800 ish.....

my 2006 4rt has always need a hard kick to start, it starts fine on the second kick but usually I need to find a tree to lean it against first - cant ever get it to start with the normal slow push through as on other bikes.... all the resistance checks as per the manual are fine, new plug, good earth, valve clearance on the (very slightly) lose side, idle speed ok. Voltage output at the light connector under the tank give's a good 13 - 14 volts at idle, however, if I kick it over with the normal 4rt push through I only get 2-3 volts at the light connector on the first kick, 5-6 volts on the second and maybe 6-8 on the third but no more than that.... had a try on a friends 4rt and we get 9-11 volts on a slow-ish first kick... I'm assuming the slight increase in voltage after ever kick is the capacitor charging.... but could it be a faulty rectifier not giving enough volts in the first place giving the problems with the starting?

2007 4RT.....last two weeks out within the first 5-10mins of riding the idle just dies off....it did restart but after far too many kicks/ECU resets.....on the first week that it happened the bike ran fine for the rest of the day...on the second week I managed to keep the bike running while I increased the idle...it kept running for most of the day and started fine when the bike had been stopped but on a number of occasions it did run rough or again die off on idle... I'm going to remove the throttle body and give it a clean and remove & clean electrical connectors etc., but just wondered if anyone had any other ideas?...I seemed like the initial rough idle came on when the fan started but I could be wrong.....

anywhere that does TIG welding should be able to do it providing they have titanium welding wire....they also have to use 'backing' gas on the pipe or weld it in an argon chamber.....

all sorted!..... the dimpled plates didn't have any burrs however, where they had been stamped out they had a sharp edge on one side.... I took a needle file to them and rounded off the square side to match the other side..... put them back in and all is ok!.... many thanks for confirming the thickness....

originally I used Elf ....then went to ATF with no significant difference in the clutch feel or grab...Its still ATF in the bike now.... just tried it again with the 'old' plates back in and it still seems fine... I will put the dimpled plates back in tomorrow and see if the grabbing clutch returns.....if it does then I may dimple my 'old' plates just to try and improve it a little further....