thall1

Hi Im sure GasGas put out a technical bulletin around 2010 ish recommending ATF?..

IF YOU LOOK ON THE 'DOWNLOADS' SECTION ON THE BETA UK SITE THE MANUALS ARE ALL SHOWN WITH THE DECAL SETS ON THE LAST PAGE...YOU MAY BE ABLE TO GET SOME IDEAS FROM THE PICTURES OF ANY CHANGES....

I got a set for my 2013 4T from Beta UK….they had to get them in from Beta Italy but it didn't take too long. Although I have to say that they don't stay on too well though...I don't power wash, but most are peeling. I did buy a set for a Gas Gas some time ago from an ebay sign/decal supplier... not 'original' but looked good and they stick better but didn't keep the bike long enough to find out really. I was going to change the colours on the Gas Gas...the supplier said as long as he doesn't have to re design the stickers he could change the colours without a problem...so if he doesn't do your exact model you could change the colours as the designs don't change that much from year to year.

try Gas Gas uk

As above, didn't fully appreciate the situation... Plenty of penetrating oil or diesel works well and heat with a gentle levering between the casing and kickstart knuckle ..try and get some ally packing to put on the case side to help prevent damage... good luck

It's easier with the shaft out of the bike... i can't remember if it's secured with a bolt on the end of the shaft or a cotter pin type arrangement?.. If it's the former then put the shaft loosely between Vise jaws with the kick start pedal resting ontop ... Use a longer bolt in the thread on the end of the shaft.... Heat the pedal as suggested above and tap the bolt firmly and it should free...

if you remove the tank and look into the gap left the catch tank is tucked up behind the head stock

With regard to the silencer rubbing there is enough movement in the exhaust system to pack out the silencer mounting points to move the silencer out to the right enough for the tyre to stop rubbing.. I did it a few years ago on a rev 3. I think It cleared except for when the rear was fully compressed once it was packed out. pack out the rear silencer mount first to a point where it doesn't foul whilst leaving the other mounts undone. Once the silencer is then securely mounted work back towards the front packing the other mount points to suit. it was s long time ago but I think I managed to fit a 10-12mm packer on the rear silencer mount

As al_orange said above... I'd check for dirt first but in the past I've found the relatively cheap seal kits are too hard and dont last that long... A couple of months or less in one case.. However I've fitted the green SKF seal kits to our evo's, they are a lot more expensive but appear to have a longer life.

From what I can remember of the gas gas kick start there isn't a bearing in the outer casing to support the kick start shaft just the lip seal..I have seen a few bikes with cracked casings usually from the rear facing side of the seal to the rear of the casing... I think there is a bolt hole quite close that the crack usually goes through... Might be worth having a good look at the casing. Good luck

did you get it sorted?

You may have flooded it badly...I did the same to an early txt pro 200... Shut off the fuel and disconnect the fuel line just in case the tap doesn't shut off fully. There will be some fuel in the carb so kick it over a few times without the plug in... Put the plug back in and kick it over again a few more times... If the plug is wet then the crank is full of fuel... Remove the plug and keep kicking it until the plug stays dry... Then reconnect the fuel and see what happens...

what do the shims do for the clutch?

Don't let it beat you! i assume it's still the problem ?

if you find they are swollen then you can try lapping them down on using 320 or 400 grit wet and dry (dry) on a flat surface. They may well swell again but you can always lap them back down again. I've lapped the same clutch plates a few times over the few years we had a GasGas pro. On later TXT Pro's I think the pack width was 9.75 mm (I think...?) I'm sure someone else can confirm the dimension....if you do lap them down to size and there is still an issue then at least you know its not the clutch plates.

Just follow on from Stu109... My 2013 fan ran but was relatively slow.. Kept running once it was on and bike ran ok when i was riding it but it overheated in the garage... Turned out the fan voltage was low due to a short caused by corrosion in the fuel shut off soleniod.... I removed the soleniod and replaced it with a standard lever shut off. Bike does flood if it's upside down but a few kicks with full throttle and its running again.

Just another thought...my first bike was an early txt pro 200.. It had an issue where it too wouldn't rev out...after much fiddling a friend took a look and found the rubber flap that sits at the back of the fuel tank was not secured correctly and was intermittently blocking the air intake!

Its flywheel off to check the key...don't know how to check the Cdi ... Can you borrow one from another bike to try?

A friend has a Sherco that had intermittent running issues... Wouldn't start without loads of kicks... Started fine when warm - usually, but also died at times and wouldn't rev out... After multiple carb cleans, base gasket change, fuel pump clean etc a new crank shaft seal behind the flywheel cured it

You could try a new radiator cap?

breather vent in the cap blocked?...try removing the cap and see if that sorts it....do you have a fuel filter fitted in the line?...I kept getting an air lock in one of mine...changed the position of it and it sorted the problem... good luck!

The plug cap has filled with water on ours sometimes. We just removed the cap and spray with wd40...as mentioned earlier you won't get fuel unless it's running or the solenoid is in the 'manual' position.

just removed the front tyre on a 2014 evo, it was tubed, as it should be but there was corrosion - much the same as yours, if not worse in a few places. We used an air file (gently!) then a wire wheel to clean out as much of the corrosion as possible then put two coats of enamel on. Older bikes we have had have been worse still on both front and rear but they still lasted fine once cleaned up and kept true. Unless your coming off 6 foot drops or anything like that I doubt you'd have any issues. I'd use the funds to keep the bike running...if the wheels fail in the future then id sort it out then ...

If it's gone tight then you could try warming it with a hair dryer first?

I don't think you'll find the cause... I'd put money on the throttle cable pulled out... Easily done.. It's only got to come out by a few MM and it'll get caught on the ferrule.