thall1

I fitted new dimpled clutch plates in a 4rt....warmed the bike up & everything seemed ok until I stopped the bike in gear to see if I had clutch drag.....for a few seconds it seemed fine then the clutch 'bit' & off I went!....didn't for one minute think it was the plates as it wasn't dragging straight away so assumed I was loosing pressure in the hydraulics so bled the clutch and eventually put a new master cylinder kit in just to be sure but it was still the same....Anyway, I decided to go back to the starting point and put the original 'old' plates in....all is fine! no clutch drag on a stationary bike and I can push it back with ease whilst in gear. The new dimpled clutch plates thickness measure 1.5mm..the old ones are 1.4mm, so an overall gain of 0.5mm over the 5 dimpled plates once installed....does anyone know what the thickness of the original ones should be and what branded dimpled plates measure? I have looked in the manual and plate thickness is not listed - the dimpled ones I fitted didn't arrive with a brand packaging and I'm wondering if they are dodgy copies?

its a Honda crf engine.... I got mine from a Honda main dealer...they wont recognise 'Montesa' parts but if you give them the part numbers from the parts list they can get them..

Hi the cam chain tensioner is automatic.... no adjustment can be made....if you have a rattle, check the tappet clearance?..... it could be worn chain guides or chain but I doubt it...I have a 2006 bike that has been well used and when I fitted new piston & rings the guides were fine. I did put in a new chain just because I had it in bits but there was no significant difference between the old and new I probably needn't of bothered.....I guess the chain tensioner could be stuck? but again I doubt it....

all sorted!....put idle back to 3 turns out but nothing...checked the plug on a GasGas (because I can turn it over by hand) and the plug was sparking - so it's not the plug I thought....after lots of electrical checks, I tie wrapped the Montesa plug to the exhaust of the Montesa and kicked it over.... still no spark...then put a GasGas plug on and it sparked! - bad connection on the cap?....put the Montesa one back on and no spark......closed the gap up to about .020" and it sparked!....duff (but only 1hr old) plug! many thanks to all.........

Hi All, does anyone know what the base setting should be for the idle adjustment screw?....worked on mine yesterday, adjusted the valve clearance to try to improve hot starting... tried it all day in the garden with no problems from hot or cold.... got the bike out today....dead as dead can be!....thought it may have been too low an idle setting as we had this once before when we first got the bike... adjusted idle but still nothing, went back the other way but still dead... then realised it was out of fuel!! but by this time I had lost count of the idle screw adjustments I had made! -As I mentioned earlier when we first got the bike my son dropped the idle down before we carried out a service -see 4RT no spark.....

yes had a new plug....

Umm I hope not!.....the pump/filter has been removed and the tank washed through....I ran it up earlier after posting the topic and it ran fine with no stutter at all!....very odd.....

Hi Guys, got a 2006 4RT......no problem when its running and in use however when its sat on idle it has a what I can only describe as a "stutter"! .....its almost like it decides it wants to die- the revs drop then thinks better of it - probably only does it over a single stroke..... seems to first happen as the bike gets warm a few minutes before the fan cuts in then when the fan is on it may do it a few times.....its never stalled when it does this - it just has a stutter.... its got a new plug (it did the same on the old plug) - all wire connectors seem ok and as I said earlier it does not do it when being ridden..... any thoughts?

Hi, I do know of a bike locally with a sheared key that was half way sheared. Had the same symptoms as ours but the miss-alignment was approx 20mm on tdc mark. The manual only describes the alignment on rebuild not for checking. There was a piston this forum with a new bike that had jumped a tooth.....

Hi guys, I have a 4 rt which 'coughs' every now and again. It has been suggested that maybe either the fly wheel has sheared the drive key and slipped a little or maybe the chain has jumped on the sprockets. I have lifted the valve cover off and with the fly wheel on the 'T' mark the cam timing marks are not in line with the top face of the head casting. They are approximately 2mm high at the front and low at the rear on the sprocket. However this is with the chain still loaded with the cam tensioner which I guess would/ could rotate the cam backwards slightly?. Should I expect to see the cam sprocket marks in line with the top face of the head with the chain loaded or not?

Dragging clutch is a thought but it was in neutral so I would presume that would rule it out. It did start on the 3rd kick once the idle was turned up - I can't really understand why it works but it does! I may try turning it back down to see what happens......

its running!...I had a chat with 'Feet up trials sport' and one suggestion was that the idle was too low?! couldn't understand how this would prevent a spark but anyway, it turns out that the day before we did the oil change , my son, who's bike it is, ran the bike up in the garden. As we have been using Gas Gas bikes up to know, he thought that it was running to fast and turned the idle down! it continued to run fine, then he turned it off and that was the last time it was tried to be started until after the service! I try to encourage him to look after his own bikes so cant say too much! - at least I'm now very familiar with 4rt's!! Anyway, many thanks too all those that posted and to 'Feet up' who pointed me to the solution.

I have been led to believe that a faulty condenser should not stop the bike running? can anyone confirm this?

I have been led to believe that a faulty condenser should not stop the bike running? can anyone confirm this?

the stator was disconnected for the oil filter change, just had the casing tie-wrapped onto the casing to prevent pulling the cables. There is a chance of borrowing bits but i'm a bit reluctant as its a new bike!...will have to see....

yes checked the fuel pump.....all ok.....

had the coil and lead put onto another bike - it works fine....... I'm new to 4rt -so who is this 'well know' specialist?

Hi all, with regard to the kill switch, yes I just left the circuit open. a few more tests have been carried out..... I have conned the wires out on the ignition side, from connectors blocks to ECU connections and as yet I cant find any signs of a broken wire. I wired a test lamp to the 4pin socket under the tank and if I push the starter by hand I get a light. I know it does not show I have 12v at 1800rpm but at least there is something so I would presume that rules out the stator? I disconnected the LT wires on the coil and fitted the test lamp in place of the coil. If I turn the engine over by hand on the kick start I don't get the lamp to light. Should I expect to get a light? I tried the same test on a Gas Gas and I did get the lamp to flash, but not sure if I should expect the same on a four stroke with a hand start? If I should get a light and I'm not, any ideas what component I should be checking next? - If there is an issue on the fuel side, i.e. injector failure, or such like would this prevent a spark? I have re-checked the pulse generator and I'm getting 96ohms - within spec. (moving/twisting the wire as it enters the casings does not have any effect so the wire appears ok) No signs of fretting cables any where... any more thoughts would again be gratefully received!

Hi me again!.... just been googling 'starting problems'..... one topic pinpointed a 'starter relay' Couldn't find one on the wiring diagram marked as such but looking through the parts manual I found one listed on the wiring harness. Its located right behind the rear shock in a rubber boot. have not got it out yet as its a bit tight...looks like the rear shock will need to come out first...anyone know what exactly this item does? Apparently, the part used on 4rt is common to lots of other bike makes as well and these have been experiencing problems.......

hi all, many thanks for the ideas....throttle body butterfly is shut so that's ones ok! - I have just been reading the manual again.... There is no specific test for the condenser. Manual suggests replacing it with a good one if yours is suspect. Is there a check that can be carried out before buying one?

Hi thanks for the info - just tried linking out the tilt switch - still no spark!

Hi guys, I'm new to the forum - just signed up as I need some help. I have a 2005 4rt. Just completed a oil filter/oil change and the clutch plates were removed and inspected as we had a 'judder' on the clutch. Also checked the tappets - inlet were very slightly over so these were adjusted. Put the bike back together yesterday - no spark. This is what I have done so far to try to cure it: -Checked spark plug on a Gas Gas - works fine -used a Gas Gas plug against the head on the 4rt to check for a spark - nothing! -Removed flywheel casing just to do a visible check - all seems ok. no visible wires broken on the pick up or the stator -I have checked every connection on the bike - cleaned with electrical spray and re-fitted. -linked out the kill button just in case. -using the Montesa owners manual I have checked every resistance specified - all ok although the Engine Temp sensor reading is 2.7k ohms not 2.6 as per the manual. -I have tried to 're-set' the ECU by opening the throttle wide open and kicking the bike 3 times (found this on a discussion on this forum). -I have also opened the throttle and kicked it once, keeping the throttle open and kick start down for 30secs (suggested by another 4rt owner) -ran a battery to the fuel pump - runs ok. (and plug is getting wet when I'm trying to start it.) - bike has only been worked on when on the side stand or a bike working stand so its not been led on its side so hopefully its not a stuck bank angle sensor ? not sure how to check ? until I started doing the checks it was only the left and right casings and tank that were removed. I have gone through these areas with a fine tooth comb to make sure nothing is tight, pinched or lose. I am now at a loss as where to go from here....any suggestions, other than burning it, would be gratefully received!