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About dirtbikedave

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    New Member

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  • Bike
    Suzuki 1974 RL250

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  • Location
    Middle Tennessee U.S.

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  1. I don't think there is an easy way. I would start by cutting two blocks of wood from a 2x4 using a miter saw. Lay your wheel flat on your work bench, sprocket side down. Precision cut two blocks that will just fit between the rim and the work bench. 90 degrees on the rim away from the broken spoke You may have to cut them several times to get them just right. This will keep the exact offset true when you go to re-tighten your spokes. Next, when you loosen all the spokes, try and use the exact number of turns on each. If you turn your wrench 90 degrees, 6 times, do every spoke exactly 90 degrees, 6 times. If you need 3 more times to get the new spoke in, do all spokes 3 more. ( I made these numbers up as an example, each wheel is different, just count the same number of turns for whatever it takes until the wheel will offset enough to get the spoke started.) To tighten it back up, use the exact same number of turns of the wrench you used before. In my example that would be 9 turns of the wrench (yours might be as many as 25) you may want to do it in stages like go around the rim with 3 wrench turns then 3 more then 3 last turns =9 turns total. If it were 25 wrench turns, do 5 turns on each 5 times. Keep your wood blocks in place as you tighten so that the offset stays the same and allows the spokes to pull up without any weight on them and check to see that the rim is just barely touching the blocks when the spokes are tight. It will tell you quick if you miscounted your turns on the spokes . If you do this correctly, you should be very close to true. By breaking a spoke the rim may or may not be slightly tweeked. At this point most motorcycle mechanics could get it perfect in 5 min. Its not as hard as it sounds, just take your time. Use a piece of masking tape to mark the spoke you start with. I'm not an expert but have done this several times, someone else may have a better idea, please chime in.....Hope this helps....Dave P.S. If you cannot get the new spoke half to thread on this way then it is the wrong spoke!
  2. I think it is still starving for fuel. I would pull the carb and make sure each passage is clear and open. Most of the time it will be blocked were you can not see. I use carb cleaner and gently squirt it into each passage, if it blows back it is blocked. Sometimes you can shine a strong light into some passages and see it reflect even around a bend and light up the other end of the passage. 100% eliminate the carb before moving on. Best of luck....dave
  3. Most difficult part to find is a good rear fender
  4. Mark, make sure the tiny passage (under the cylinder) that allows premix to lube the back side of the crank bearing is open. It may look open but you have to run a wire through it. The two RLs I have rebuilt both were completely blocked causing the crank bearing on that side to wear much faster than the one running off the transmission oil. These are great projects!!! Best of luck
  5. Matrix has some good mods but on the clutch you change out 3 of the springs for lighter ones. I've already removed 2 springs so I think I am close to the same as a Matrix upgrade. The stock RL250 (U.S.model) had the TS250 setup with that plastic spiral attached to a very short clutch arm that catches a lot of dirt slung off the chain. You have to clean it very often for it to work smooth. On the TM250 motocrosser they moved it away from the chain. Like the Beamish Black engine. My question, is this an easy bolt on or is there some modification need to be made. I think I need the cover, arm, thrust bearing, pinion and rack, but not sure if I need the clutch basket and cover.
  6. Wow, I've been doing it wrong for 43 years, good to know. I must have pioneered the one finger clutch!!!!
  7. As I'm getting older, I'm having more trouble working the clutch lever with one finger on my stock 75 RL250. I took two springs out of the clutch, added a new cable, and this helped for a couple of years but now having trouble again. Anyone found a mod that works? Maybe extending the length of the arm inside the cover (not much room in there). or Has anyone tried a clutch cover off of a TM250? This would be more like a Beamish.
  8. If you need to use spray paint for touch up of a U.S. RL250, Kubota tractor orange is real close to the original Suzuki orange
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