oldgit

Now sorted - thanks to Facebook's Montesa Cota 348 group. There are two needle rollers and the spacer as shown on the output shaft. Needle rollers due to be replaced with new.

Trying to avoid egg-on-face when I come to reassembly. In the middle of a strip down and rebuild of a spare 348 engine I bought a while back. All stripped down and parts labelled but… I've got a couple of left-over parts which I can't identify - can anyone help, please? As you can see, there's a spacer and a needle roller. Found in the bottom of the gearbox and can't work out where they came from. I'm pretty certain they were inside the 'pocket' of the crankcase half where the gearshift shaft terminates. Both are 15mm outside diameter, spacer is 10mm in length, bearing 14.8mm. The only place they appear to fit is within the clutch side crankcase half where the end of the gearshift goes but, of course, that's where the gearshift shaft goes… The only thing which comes to mind is that they are some sort of spacer/support for if there was a conversion to/from right hand shift as there is blanked-off area of the RH case which would suit for that. Any answers?

Had a nagging oil leak since I got the bike a couple of months ago. In fact, quite a few slow (and not so slow) leaks so changed all seals in clutch case - gear, clutch arm etc. New cover gasket, too. Looked to also be leaking from a couple of the cover screws/bolts so added a few o-rings on these. Finally, found that one of the screws at the bottom of the case is all the way through the case and protruding just in front of the gear box drain plug underneath the engine. I'm guessing that the original cover screw was a shorter one and a previous owner has mistakenly inserted a longer one and pushed all the way through. Unless, of course, the original screw should have gone all the way through. Anyway, that looks like the source of the leak. As this won't be the first time this has happened, does anyone have a cure, please? Edit: Just found this image on Ebay - not my bike - which appears to show ends of two case screws poking through the case wall. SO, maybe, this is how it should be and I need to look elsewhere. Very confused now.

And… ten minutes and a few sharp knocks with a hammer and 12mm socket later, here we are. Hopefully, with a bit of a cleanup, will all go together snugly. Thanks, again, all.

Thanks, all, for the replies so far. However, it does seem as though mine is from a different install (1979 model) which appears to have a full width sleeve between the bearing inner and the spindle so that it's not possible to access the inner lip. I'm pretty sure that it will only need a few small knocks with an appropriately sized socket and it will loosen and pass through. But thought it was worth checking anyway. Looks like it's a standard fitting, though, as the bearings from InMotion are the exact size and the spindle a snug fit on the sleeve. But haven't seen the sleeve on any parts guides.

I've just put new shoes on my front wheel and had planned to swap the bearings too. However, removing the old ones seems a little tricky as there appears to be a full width sleeve fitted between the existing bearings and the wheel spindle. Am I right in what I see? And, if so, are there any easy ways for removal other than drifting the sleeve all the way through using gentle application of a lump hammer? Apologies if t.his has been asked before but I've done a search and nothing comes up TIA

Not much interest, to be honest - although it is still available as a working app for both ios and 'droid. Probably I'm way ahead of my time 😉 I directed most of my energy recently into developing a nice online results system - trialmonster.uk - which you might want to take a look at. Quite a comprehensive system with only the tip of the iceberg showing to regular users. It will, however, interface with the apps and accepts scores as they are uploaded. I think in general since CV-19 and other worries, trials participation has shrunk quite a bit and probably needs a kickstart to get going again.

Not sure about this - I have just tried on my Android and all worked OK. I did it like this - 1) Go to this page in TC, 2) Click on link 3) which takes you to the correct Google Play download page. Not sure what the problem is. Alternatively, opening Play Store and doing a search for 'ScoreMonster Lite' will find it. Not sure what I can do if that doesn't work.

Click here

Hi guy53, I've submitted an update to the PlayStore to allow worldwide downloads. It needs Google to update but then should be available.

Although not ideal, the ACU's 'restart' paperwork suggests that riders may self-observe in small groups. As I was already working on developing an 'Observer' app, I have adapted it for such use. At the moment, it has been tested and works successfully - although it has NOT been used in a 'real' trial. The app wil run on Android smartphones and is fairly straightforward to use. Simply, one rider records scores on their phone and then, following the trial, clicks a button to either upload the scores to a scoring system or emails them to the scoring team. There's both a PDF showing screenshots of the app below and a link to the download. I would also welcome any feedback - my email is on page 2 of the PDF. It is available for download through Google's Play Store - click here ScoreMonster.pdf

I've been trying to call Vic for a couple of weeks now to order some bagged observer sheets. So far, I haven't had a reply. Have also tried email in the past without success. Does anyone know if he is still in business? Or, failing that, an alternative supply? Thanks

Could you explain this, please? Not intended as a criticism - just interested in your reasoning as it's something I'm not aware of.

Thanks, guys. Worked a treat. Job done!

I'm intending to replace the standard kill switch with a lanyard type as it gives me a little more assurance when I jump ship. Will be using one of the standard magnetic type switches as replacement. Is this a straightforward mod where I follow the wiring loom from the switch until I come to bullet connectors and simply unplug the old ones/plug the new one in? Any advice appreciated. Thanks.

Thanks, Richard. First thing on my agenda for tomorrow.

Can anyone offer advice on a QUICK and EASY way of throttle cable replacement? Did one a while ago which I seem to remember needed me to remove throttle assembly and all sorts of other bits. Surely there's an easier way? Cheers

I had read through the entire topic - but I'm still confused as my RT4 throttle is a constant radius and (from memory - which may be wrong) I seem to recall a standard black one having a variable radius. Would be good to know if a standard slow/black one has a constant radius.

Quick question about the standard throttle on a 2016 4RT - is it a Domino slow (black-bodied) one? I can't compare at the moment as I only have the one on the bike which came with it but I do seem to recall the Domino black one had a similar radius to the white one except for the beginning of the travel where it had a noticeably smaller radius followed by a cam type of increase after the first few millimetres. By contrast, the one currently fitted to my bike has a constant radius throughout all of its travel with the radius quite a bit less than a white one.

Clear tube still connected. No sign of the purple tube - but I guess that's from the Keihin carb and mine's fitted with a Dellorto. I'll have a much closer look tomorrow once the bike's cleaned and dried. Apart from that - done four or five hours over the weekend and new oil is still crystal clear. Hoping it's a one-off but checking out the water pump. Thanks again.

OK. Thanks very much, gents. I'll keep an eye on it and change frequently.

Coolant still full. Oil been in approx one month - around 20 hours, I would guess. Also - have checked carb, air cleaner, filter etc. Anywhere that mud/dirt could have got in. Nothing out of place there.

Hello, I was just visually checking my bike through the 'porthole' this morning and noticed that the oil was a little cloudy. On draining, the oil was a little milky coffee coloured. I've seen quite a few examples of head gasket leaks and the oil was nowhere near as milky as one of those. There were also some small residues which I initially thought might be rubber from a worn-out seal - however, on examination, they appeared to be mud. I've had a trawl through a number of threads and the most common diagnosis for water in the oil seems to be a worn impeller shaft however, this would not explain the mud. I'm guessing that the most probable cause is overuse or poor aiming of a pressure hose. Would I be correct in this? Or any other thoughts?