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riffraffretro

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Everything posted by riffraffretro
 
 
  1. Thanks for the pointers again guys... genuinely appreciated. I'm confident that the timing is adjusted correctly (checked, double-checked and checked again), so will try a few variations on starting technique (fuel on, tickle carb, fuel off), starter spray and perhaps fitment of a decompression valve, in the hope that something bears fruit. Thereafter, it'll be off with the head to check the top end, followed by engine removal and strip, should nothing improve. And, all from a bike advertised as needing "Oils and a fettle to make perfect"!
  2. Thanks Keychange I've replaced and relocated the condensor (adjacent to the coil, correctly earthed), replaced the points and adjusted within spec using a TDC tool, correctly fitted and torqued the flywheel and replaced the plug - again, correctly adjusted. There appears to be a decent spark (none prior to replacement of the condensor and points). Additionally, I've replaced the spark plug cap, cleaned the Amal carb and replaced the fuel line. After a few kicks, the plug base becomes saturated with fuel (pre-mix of Unleaded and Castrol Power 1 at 50:1), and the kicking action offers sufficient resistance to indicate adequate compression. I've even attempted bump starting (too many times to mention), but it's still dead and refuses to start! Wondering what else to do next, or whether she'll remain as a handy garage shelf/storage platform, until I get adequately miffed to set fire to the lot/break the bas*ard for parts and by a 300RR!
  3. I can't imagine getting my 247 running (not even for one day), despite working through pretty much, every conceivable reason for it not starting (notwithstanding spending a serious amount of cash in the process). I've resigned myself to the fact that it makes for a pretty decent storage shelf in the garage, but not a great deal else.
  4. Thanks for the info guys... all very helpful, as always. I'll definitely relocate the condenser, but will need to look at the timing as the current points set are rusted shut!
  5. OK, so in the absence of a spark on my 247, I guess it's time to overhaul the ignition set-up... Motoplat system. I've purchased a flywheel puller, timing tool (plug type), points and condenser, but being new to the old-school points system fitted, I'm clueless as to how to proceed. Can someone clarify: 1: Rotate flywheel clockwise to fully open points, as viewed through flywheel 'slot'? 2: Remove flywheel using puller tool, then set points gap accordingly - what is the specified gap? 3: Insert timing tool in plug hole, then rotate flywheel clockwise (loosely refitted), until TDC is reached - then further rotate flywheel clockwise until the required BTDC piston position is reached? What is the BTDC value and how does it relate to the scale on the timing tool - graduated 5cm scale in increments of 1mm? 4: Re-check points and adjust accordingly to achieve correct gap at specified BTDC position? 5: Fit new condenser, then reassemble? Is that it, or am I missing something? Thanks again.
  6. Thanks Oldaz... a fellow TC contact has a spare airbox which he's kindly made available, so I should be up-and-running shortly.
  7. Thanks again Cleanorbust... another case of Heath Robinson strikes again by the PO!
  8. Apologies for another question relating to my newly acquired 247! It's a '71 model, with new Amal carb. I'm trying to determine whether the air box and filter fitted to the bike (see image), are standard, or whether they represent another Heath Robinson'esque bodge-up by the PO! The air box is manufactured from steel, with solid top and bottom sections, encasing perforated steel sides, within which there's a filter, comprising a 'waffled' paper-type element, wrapped in a fine steel mesh - nothing at all like the foam type filters I'm used to using. I'm unable to find anything similar online (Google search, etc), and wonder if this is something the PO has fashioned-up, or whether it's the original factory set-up. The airbox to carburetor pipe/ducting is absent in any case, so if I were to retain the present set-up, I'd need to source a suitable pipe - 40mm I/D by approx 250mm in length - any suggestions? Alternatively, I could opt for a cone-type filter (RamAir manufacture a wide range), but question whether these are really suitable for off-road applications, given that they're designed to be used 'dry'. Again, thanks in advance for any assistance.
  9. Thanks Cleanorbust... that explains the issues I experienced earlier. From your description, it seems that the bike has had aftermarket pegs fitted by the PO. I'll likely buy a generic set of springs and run with those. Cheers - I really appreciate your time explaining this.
  10. Just ordered a shiny new set of footpeg springs for my 247 (InMotion), which look nothing like anything I've fitted before (hooked ends). Having just spent... ahem, far too long trying to fit them, can anyone help/provide a few pics? They're slightly different (left to right side), too.
  11. Thanks for the pointers guys - I think I'll attempt sealing the tank as a starting point (Caswells), then, if that doesn't do the trick, look into getting some type of alloy tank fabricated, to sit under the existing fibreglass bodywork.
  12. I've done a fair bit of searching about here on TC and via Google, but can't seem to unearth a definitive answer. My 247's fuel tank (21M frame number) needs attention: various bubbles in the gel coat, with a dodgy underside repair that doesn't look like it'll run the distance (it's 100% fibreglass and not the UK market alloy/fibreglass version). I was hoping to source a UK tank (alloy/fibreglass), as that appears (to my mind at least), to be the better option, but I cannot find anything available, anywhere! Anyone know of a supply? I guess the next best option would be to repair and seal the existing tank - anyone able to recommend a product that can be relied upon to actually do the job, keeping the ravages of ethanol and whatever else constitutes modern unleaded at bay - peeking down the filler neck of mine reveals a silver/grey coloured flaky/wrinkly looking deposit inside, which I'm assuming is from a previous repair attempt? ... Or, has anyone used a tank off of a different bike successfully, modified suitably for the 247? I see that Bultaco alloy tanks are readily available and wonder if there's something similar to the 247's tank out there that could re-purposed... without requiring the fabrication skills of a F1 engineer! Thanks for any pointers.
  13. Thanks Spen & Cleanorbust... very helpful.
  14. Can anyone advise: Is there a decent copy workshop/service manual available for the Cota 247 - the one I've managed to download is pretty poor quality and appears lacking in repair service procedures and 'how-to' content. Being used to the Haynes/Clymer format, it's quite a departure! Will modern Castrol synthetic pre-mix do the job in terms of engine lubrication (as per my old 315R), or is anything else recommended? What fuel:oil ratio is advised? The Lubrication Chart in the manual I've downloaded refers to gearbox oil (SAE 30) and clutch/primary drive oil (SAE 10W 30), is this correct and what brand of each type is recommended? Thanks in advance... it's all completely new to me this 70's stuff!
  15. Some great advice here. I too, am in a similar boat, coming across from an enduro H&H background. Trying to figure out how best to prepare for that first trial is a minefield... I guess some repetitive slow speed, first gear riding, combined with the suggestion of trying to stick to a particular line on a self-made 'course' is the way to go. With my first trial set for a week Sun, I better get started.
  16. Thanks guys... really appreciate the feedback. The 'Why don't they just grip' thread was an eye opener, too! I was of the opinion that a 4T would grip like my old XR400... choose a gear, any gear, apply minimal throttle, point the 'bars in the general direction of desired travel, feet on the pegs and way to go - grip, grip and more grip, no fuss, no wheelspin and no drama (or talent), to factor in! Based on my own capabilities, I think I'll run with what I know for the time being.
  17. Interesting... I was under the impression that the 4T option would require a more committed style, but offer smooth, progressive grip. ... Not sure now.
  18. I have an opportunity to purchase a 2016 300RR, which to be honest, looks pretty stylish in the flesh. Having always run 2T bikes previously (enduro and now trials), I'm curious to know how the 300RR stacks-up against the 2T competition. I notice that the 300RR's weight is ball-park at 72kg (when compared with my 315 at any rate), but wonder how the engine 'feels' in comparison and whether it'd be lacking in power against a similar capacity 2T. I am a big fan of the way 2T power is delivered, their general lack of bulk and low running/maintenance costs, but the 4T itch seems to need scratching and seeing as big H does 4T as well, if not better than anyone else, wonder if it's a chance worth taking, or whether I'd be left feeling let down. Anyone out there made a similar move... what's the general consensus? BTW, I'm an average Clubman level rider, so no expert or authority, by a long chalk. Thanks again for any guidance/opinions.
  19. Thanks guys... looks like I'll be removing and stripping the carb this weekend. Help and pointers really appreciated.
  20. Any advice would be much appreciated... I can't get things settled down with the fuelling on my 315R: starts easily from cold with choke, but shortly after the choke is closed things go pear shaped! Throttle response gets sloppy pretty quickly - almost as if there's a disconnect between what the twist grip is doing and how the engine revs-up, with a noticeable delay and general feeling of sloppiness and lumpiness, until the point comes when the engine stalls. The only method of keeping the engine running (and to momentarily achieve a normal throttle connection), is to open the choke, but the instant it's closed again, things go back to where they were. Points to a carburettor/air issue to me, but I'm unsure. Carb air adjust screw is set to 1 turn out as per manual, fresh pre-mix has been added and the airbox/filter cleaned/replaced. Anyone able to help? It's a '98 model year bike.
  21. Anyone able to advise of standard air screw setting (No. of turns out) and throttle stop screw setting (No. of turns out), for my '98 315R? Committed the schoolboy error of starting to make adjustments to each, without first determining original settings... DOH! Now things are all of the shop! Thanks in advance.
  22. "Just like pensioners of 70 riding pre 65 twinshock 175cc aircooled bikes wearing jogging bottoms and 20 year old rugby shirts beating[every week] 40 year olds on £8000.00 Honda Montesa 300rr's wearing Repsol replica clothing and Bou helmets". Got to love the old guard keeping everyone honest! We get a similar thing in cycling - quite a few 65+ gents with wrinkly legs and varicose veins, riding £100 steel framed bikes from the 70's, wearing tracksuits and Dunlop trainers, killing the rest of us on the hills! As they say, with age, comes much experience and wisdom.
  23. I took a punt on the generic Jitsie trials seat for my 315 in the hope that it would fit. It does, pretty well too! Not cheap at £100, but hopefully, worth it in the long run. Obviously, this doesn't address the fuel range issue, but with the addition of a fork mounted reserve and carrying a 2l scooter-type fuel cell in my backpack (£10 off of Evil Day), I should be sorted, with a combined capacity of around 5l. Bring on the trails!
  24. Thanks for the suggestions - I've not managed to unearth anything new, so the salvage option looks like the next stop.
 
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