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Everything posted by riffraffretro
  1. Thanks for the pointers, guys. I've gone with Comma Classic 20w50 as that's what the manufacturer recommends and others have used with success. As stated, at under £20 for 5l, it's cheap enough to change regularly.
  2. Can anyone advise the best gearbox oil/fluid for the RL250 Beamish? I've seen modern 80W transmission oil recommended, as well as ATF. If ATF, what specification, Dexron 3, or something more advanced? Thanks in advance.
  3. Thanks Keychange... y'know, I did wonder whether ATF would work for the 247. I've used it in everything else (315, Jota Gas, 4-Ride, etc), with great success, but it could be asking a little much of the seals and mating surfaces of a near 50 year old bike to work with something so thin. There again, others seem to get away with it. I guess I need to fix the leak, then finally, ride the bike... its only been 3 years without turning a wheel, but at least it starts first kick now and settles into a lovely raspy idle. Thanks for the help.
  4. The 247 persists leaking ATF when running - fluid is leaking through the underslung clutch actuator pivot, where the arm meets the engine case (it's an early model). Anyone able to shed light on what type of seal is needed before I pull it apart... just hoping to save time and order the necessary before starting the job? Thanks again, in advance. CW
  5. Yup, me too... I did the rounds trying to optimise the standard ignition and fuelling arrangement on my 247 and I mean, BIG TIME - timing set-up, condensor relocate, HT lead and plug replacement, points swap, air leak check, crank seals, carb strip and rebuild, fuel line replacement, the list goes on and on and on!. It simply refused to start, nothing, not even a suggestion of firing-up! Threw the towel in eventually and on the advice of a fellow TC 247 owner, made the call to Electrex World. Two hours of installation time and TWO kicks later (with the aid of a decompression lever, again on the advice of another TC enthusiast) and... perfection. Starts now second kick EVERY time, with a lovely even idle, perfect pick-up and no drama, whatsoever, even after months of not being used! It's the single most effective improvement I've made to the 247 and one, without which, I'd have likely sold it on as a project and bought something newer!
  6. Yes, they carry a reasonable range of Cota parts and spares.
  7. Yup, this is how I start my 247 fitted with a Venhill decompression kit. It makes the whole process easier IMO, and really does seem to remove the physicality and strain from the starting components.
  8. I saw this on the S3 website earlier and wondered what it was, too. No issues with starting my 4-Ride, hot or cold - zero throttle and a firm, progressive 'sweep' sees it firing-up second kick, every time. S3 kit is usually bang on the money, so maybe things will deteriorate with age/use and starting will become more difficult as time and hours rack-up?
  9. Has anyone carried out this de-cat/power-up conversion on a standard 4-Ride? http://inside.hondamc.com/upload/techdoc/Microdata PDF/COTA/Kit Full Power Cota 4RT 260 (YM14-Eng).pdf Any recommendations for exhaust headers, or other parts? Thanks in advance.
  10. The Polisport fender looks identical to that used by S3... there again, it'll be a case of buying and trying, I guess.
  11. Yes, it's the absence of threaded mounting holes located in the lower section of the steering head that necessitates a different solution. Fair play to S3 for working out a fix, but at £100 a pop, it'll be a few hours spent in the shed with some aluminium plate, an assortment of tools, lots of trial and error and a standard MX fender for me.
  12. S3 manufacture a replacement high level enduro mudguard for the 4 Ride, but at £100 plus it's seriously more costly than buying standard bodywork from the likes of UFO, Polisport, etc. Has anyone had experience of making the change using a generic motocross type mudguard? I'm happy to pay the price for their gear selector kit, considering the engineering involved, but 100 quid for a plastic fender just doesn't seem right.
  13. Yup, it's well worth the effort and looks the part, too. I see that the 'enduro edition' models offered by Colwyn Bay Honda (and others), have the flap fitted from new. I haven't looked at the gearshift relocation kit myself as most of the riding I do is trials-type stuff, so no real issue with the standard position for me. If it's a branded S3 product, it's sure to be well engineered and more than up to the job.
  14. After realising that regular disassembly of the majority of the 4-Ride's rear end simply to check/clean/replace the air filter was a bridge too far, I opted for the S3 access flap kit... fitted today. After careful cutting of the airbox using the supplied template, everything came together nicely; the kit provides adequate access to the filter, with only removal of the seat required and looks well thought through and engineered. IMO, well worth the £59.99 outlay to facilitate air filter changes in minutes, as opposed to hours. Can't recommend enough.
  15. As previously, ensuring the shaft is rotated FULLY clockwise before installing the kick starter (at the five-past-the-hour position) is crucial. I followed other advice on TC relating to fitting a decompression valve (Venhill do a nice one), which makes the whole starting procedure easier and less brutal... I have a 247.
  16. As above, really. I guess that until Bou starts struggling against the competition on the RR (yeah, almost sounds funny, doesn't it?), HRC and Honda have no real incentive to push ahead with new model development. I think that sales of the 260, 300 and 4-Ride are pretty stable, again making justification for a new model difficult financially... just imagine the return on investment that Honda is seeing now, so many years after the initial roll-out of the model range! Interesting times for sure.
  17. eBay is probably your best bet.
  18. I went through exactly the same issue with my Cota - several new and relocated condensers, points (endlessly adjusted), HT leads and caps, timing set-up - then set-up again, replacement kill switch, thorough wiring overhaul, stator check, carburettor rebuild... all to no avail and producing a barely visible spark! During the depths of despair (this process took me 12+ months, on and off), I too, considered selling-on as a 'spares or repair' project - I even came close to buying a fully sorted Bultaco Sherpa, but something inside... along with much encouragement from several TC members, saw me stick with the plan. Suffice to say, an electronic ignition conversion later, along with bottom end rebuild and top-end checks (so easy and rewarding to do - save for removing the primary drive gear from the crankshaft end - aided by the loan of a puller from another TC member), plus a coating of Caswells Tank Sealer, saw her fire-up first time. She's a beauty... raw, unpolished and involving - quite unlike any other bike I've ridden... sure some of the engineering fundamentals are iffy (Spanish 70's engineering), but the handling and performance are remarkably good - plus, there's an ownership experience associated with a bike made almost 50 years ago, which nothing else I've owned can match... I love my 2018 4-Ride, but I love my Cota equally. If you have the desire to see it through, I doubt you'll regret the decision. Keep us posted and good luck - you WILL get there and who knows, you might just enjoy the challenge... I did.
  19. I guess only you know the answer to that question; spending out on classic kit hardly ever pays dividends (financial), but there's often huge satisfaction to be had bringing an old/tired example back from the brink and enjoying the process along the way. Plus of course, you get to own and ride something that's a little less mainstream than opting for a newer model.
  20. In my experience with the Cota, it's not so much the kickstart spring tension that determines the kick 'action', more the positioning of the kickstart lever onto the splined shaft. Locating the spring is pretty easy as there is a hole and lug arrangement to position it correctly - mine is at pretty low tension when installed and I tend to position the kickstart lever at around 10 past the hour when mounting onto the shaft. Thereafter, it's a case kicking with firm and even pressure through the kick stroke (I use a decompression valve, also), to complete the process... try not to allow the kickstart lever to spring back without maintaining a degree of foot pressure on the lever as it's this that can cause damage to the case - mine has historically suffered this fate, as have many Cota's. Keep us posted.
  21. No problem. There was a copy of the manual in question, listed with UK eBay (Google Search: Clymer Montesa Manual), with a seller called Red Brain, but the link doesn't seem to load... maybe it's sold/is an old listing. Might be worth contacting the seller... the manual is excellent.
  22. I have a Clymer Publications 'Montesa Service • Repair • Handbook 123-360cc Singles • 1965-1972' manual which states that it covers an array of models from Cota, through Impala, to Scorpion (King Scorpion) and Cappra. Not sure if this would be applicable to your bike, but the engineering and technical fundamentals are all pretty common between variants; it's out of print and has been for years, but copies do surface from time to time. Might be worth searching online? In terms of a weak/absent spark, this issue is common and well documented here on TC; it's usually down to a faulty condenser, sticky points, incorrectly adjusted timing, stator degradation, poor earthing, or a combination of all of the above. I quit in the end ('71 Cota 247) and installed electronic ignition from Electrex World - solved the issue in an instant, which combined with a decompression valve (Venhill), makes starting easy. The fuel oil ratio I run with is 50:1 (synthetic pre-mix), which does create moderate smoke but ensures a well lubricated piston and barrel... again, for the Cota 247. Your enduro, if ridden hard, with regular wide-open throttle might need a different mix... regular riding/plug inspection should provide guidance.
  23. This is all VERY interesting to me, having been a 2T rider since the beginning. Very early days for me on the 4T, but it is absolutely night and day different to riding my 300 2T; the way the Mont pulls from almost zero revs and close to standstill, is pretty impressive. I'll certainly try the overrun technique explained above once the going gets snotty... makes perfect sense, yet I'd never have figured it out for myself.
  24. Thanks Pearson... I might try that coolant myself. I guess I'll have to get used to the fact that the fan likes to keep itself busy. Cheers for the advice, guys.
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