Congratulations. Should have mentioned that the heat also degrades any locking agent that was present. I recommend using Red Loctite when installing new studs.
I've had excellent luck getting studs out of aluminum. The coefficient of thermal expansion for aluminum is roughly twice that of steel. Using this fact, I heat the aluminum with a propane torch. Then I apply a penetrating oil (like PB Blaster) while still hot where it can seep in. Depending on the level of corrosion involved, sometimes waiting is necessary and sometimes more than one application will be required. Removing the studs while hot is helpful.
This even works for a steel/steel thread like a spoke and nipple.
Obtaining longer studs is very doable. But you may have to resort to getting them out of China via eBay or AliExpress.
If you think it's an issue, then it's an issue. Personally, I'm a stickler for making the suspension work properly on whatever I'm riding.
I'm also in the US, and it's typically only 10 days shipping time. Splatshop's support and pricing is unparalleled. The price you see without logging-in includes VAT (which you won't pay).
Because I was applying to new plastics, I just used a household cleaner called Simple Green. That stuff will rapidly strip the oils from your skin! For anything more than a quick wipe-down, I wear gloves.
For those interested, I have built a website devoted to Electric Motion trials bikes. I intend it as a give-back for all the things I've learned via the internet over the years. There is no advertising or commercial content.
I sold my 4RT a few years ago but the service manual said Mode 1 (press small button) is for dry terrain. Mode 2 (press big button) is for wet terrain. I really could not tell any difference and removed the switch entirely, which locks the ECU in dry mode.
As the title states, I'm looking for a particular TR250i map. The exact name of the map is "20130727_OssaTr250i_Evo2.rom"
I have two ostensibly 2014 model year bikes. The early TR250i came with the EVO2 map. The later TR250i came with dual maps. I have tried all available maps and the one I prefer is EVO2. Does anyone have that map file? I have not seen anything between EVO2 and EVO6. So I'd be willing to try EVO3, 4, or 5 if they exist. Thanks in advance!
I find it interest that the Explorer has both a main filter capacitor plus a filter capacitor in the EasyStart box. This latter capacitor is only connected when the fan is running. The trials bikes with factory EasyStart dispensed with the main filter capacitor. I think the entire EFI system was a learning process for OSSA, and perhaps Kokusan Denki as well (whose 2T experience was with snowmobiles).
I also think it's difficult to generalize too much about how the different models operate. Not only are the "maps" themselves different, I believe some of the ECU firmware may be different as well.
To check if the EasyStart is working properly, connect a voltmeter between the Red & Black wires at the 6-pin diagnostic connector. Momentarily actuate the kill button. You should see something close to 9 VDC for 30 seconds. If you don't, replace the 1.5V Ni-MH AAA cell in the EasyStart. Or simply remove the cell and charge it outside the bike. The bike's electrical system doesrecharge this cell at a trickle rate. But I think if the cell gets really low, the trickle charge becomes insufficient.
Lotus, I'm not sure how you can start the bike while actuating the kill button. On the trials bikes, the kill action overrides (as it should). Perhaps the Explorer is different?
I no longer think it's necessary (or perhaps even desirable) for the fuel pump to run prior to kicking. The fuel pump and Injector are powered by a seperate winding on the stator (I'm in the process of reverse-engineering the ECU).
You can learn a lot by "teeing" a pressure gauge into the injector's fuel line.
Most of the time these EFI OSSAs will start on a single kick if everything is working properly. The problem is that the system is quite complicated with lots of potential for things to go wrong.
If you don't get a better answer, I'll say that 0.002" is too tight for anything. I'm guessing it may be a misprint and should be 0.020" as the service limit. 0.012" seems roughly right for new rings.
At the risk of stating the obvious, the purpose of the end gap is to allow clearance for expansion as the ring gets hot -- you do not want the ends to ever touch. Minimum end gap is a function of bore diameter and operating temperature.
New end gap is typically on the order of 0.004" per inch of bore.
I've been studying the effect the main jet has on part-throttle fueling and learning a lot.
Have found an equation for two flow restrictions in series (in this case the main jet and the needle system) and have written a small spreadsheet based on the Dellorto PHBL 26.
Is anyone interested in the results? I ask because presenting/explaining them would be a fair amount of effort. I'm also uncertain what the best way to actually present them would be (I know not everyone is as enamored with numbers as I am).
Would anyone be interested in working with the spreadsheet? It's in OpenOffice Calc, but I could convert to MS Excel.
The problem is more than merely academic to me. My wife thinks the thing that will eventually cause her to stop competing is repeatedly starting the bike. I compete on a 250 because it's easier to kick.
TL250 Rear Sprocket Spacer?
in Honda
Posted
Congratulations. Should have mentioned that the heat also degrades any locking agent that was present. I recommend using Red Loctite when installing new studs.