Change the ignition timing first (which will affect the perfect mixture strength). Retarding the ignition timing will make the engine more willing to rev. Make one change at a time to understand its affects.
Hard to start from cold is likely the choke (enrichener) circuit. (But retarding the ignition timing may improve this.)
You may be able to just flip the reeds over to make them seal. (My Shercos seem fairly tolerant to imperfect reeds.)
Based on your statement regarding "running in" jets, I assume you are familiar with 2T MX bikes (which have an air screw for the mixture strength). Despite begin a 2T, the Dellorto has a fuel screw, which I find has a smaller effect on generally rich 2T engines than an air screw.
Regarding feeling both rich and lean at the same time, it's possible the "transition hole" (engine side of carb from bore into idle circuit) is clogged. Make sure every passage inside the carb is scrupulously clean by spraying carb cleaner and compressed air thorough all the orifices. Don't be afraid to gently use a fine wire as well.
I rarely make a jet change of more than 1 size at a time. The main jet only affects fueling from 3/4 to full throttle. Since you're using a slow throttle tube, this may not be much of an issue.
The TXT 321 was my first trials bike. I spent considerable time getting the clutch to work to my liking (zero drag). Since this is your first motorcycle, you may not be too critical of that fault, but having the bike work properly will help prevent you from developing bad habits. A good trials habit is to have one finger (and only one finger) always on the clutch lever.
Anyway, I made sure everything was perfect with my clutch components and it still would not disengage completely with the lever pulled to the bar. Eventually, with the clutch cover removed, I noticed that it was easy for me to rotate the pressure plate by hand when the clutch was disengaged. There was little drag and no tendency for it to rotate the engine. This gave me an idea. I rode the bike briefly with no oil in the gearbox. Guess what -- the clutch disengaged completely! I then refilled the gearbox 300cc short of the "correct" fill. This also produced nearly zero clutch drag.
Although neither an owner's nor service manual seems to exist for this bike, internet sources say the correct gearbox fill is 650 - 750cc. There is a sight glass on the clutch housing that I had been using. I would guess it takes about 800cc to get the level in the middle of the sight glass. So when I fill 300cc short, I probably have about 1/2 liter in the gearbox.
There is an advantage to having a lot of oil in the gearbox in that (short term) it can act as a heat sink and allow the clutch to work longer before overheating and slipping. As a new rider you probably will not be abusing the clutch to that extent anyway.
Regarding Peterb's recommendation of using ATF, I agree completely. I tried every transmission fluid known to man in that 321 and nothing was any better than ATF, which is cheap and readily available. I use it on most 2T gearboxes now.
I'll end with a story from Kevin Cameron about Kawasaki's KR250 road racer (circa 1975). The KR250 had a very tight gearcase, and when given its "correct" fill of 1,100cc of gear oil, it got so hot it burned the black paint right off the casting. Cutting the fill to 600cc made the situation tolerable, if not desirable.
It's fairly common for people to elongate the stator plate mounting holes to alter ignition timing. The amount of elongation I see there would only be a few degrees. That should not prevent it from starting.
Really, almost any epoxy would work -- preferable with a 24-hour curing time. I've even used Fiberglas resin on stator plates.
HOWEVER... I think those stators are a know electrical failure item on the small Polini motors (a friend had an MX version with that trouble). I suggest talking to your Polini importer.
Yes, m8 for bottom shock mounts on twin shocks. No real stress on these, button tops don't tend to get snagged on passing scenery ?
Everything I saw has a minimum threaded length of 28mm. So if you needed, say, 25mm unthreaded, you would buy a 55mm fastener and cut off most of the threads.
That's soft enough that, I think, you could cut more threads with a die. But that's generally frowned upon. And using a spacer under the head would would circumvent what you are trying to achieve with the button head.
How about some sort of slippery plastic covering over the original bolt head?
Appreciate your input, I've yet to find any "partial threaded" I'm assuming its because the relatively small allen key size isn't sufficient for proportionate torque ?
Not sure I understand your question. The key size is based on the diameter. The tightening torque is a function of several parameters (e.g., grade, diameter, pitch) but length really does not enter into it. Are you looking for a specific bolt?
So we are all stuffed then. If you’ve just bought a new car, it will probably need a different material tank very soon....so will everyone else. Trucks use plastic tanks too! Ask yourself arecwe being forced to go electric!
Don't get too upset, that paper was written in 1996 and is from the point of view of manufacturers, not consumers.
My first trials bike was a 321. Letting off the throttle will not produce "spark knock" (detonation). I'd be wiggling bearings. Sometimes you can isolate the source of the noise with one end of a hose (maybe 3/4 - 1" ID) held to your ear and probing the engine with the other end.
And yes, one side of the kill button goes to the chassis ground.
Chris, you can determine the volume of ethanol in a fuel with a simple test: Fill a syringe with 90cc fuel and 10cc water. Shake it well, then let it stand for 10 minutes. If the "water" portion increases from 10cc to, say 20cc, that indicates your fuel is 10% ethanol (by volume).
As for ethanol's effects on plastic, I'm sure it depends on the particular plastic. (I would advise searching academic/industry research papers for a credible answer.) My red plastic fuel jugs are HDPE (high-density polyethylene).
P.S. There are many ways to improve octane rating. I would say, in general, the less costly the fuel, the greater the ethanol percentage.
There seems to be quite a few topics related to fuels on this forum. I'll add my contribution here. The content of both these write-ups was posted on other forums as far back as 10 years ago. My thinking has not changed.
The guy narrating this converted the Montesa and has been riding it in local trials since. He has a channel on youtube but I don't know if there is a way to contact him through that.
The owner's name is visible on the number board in the video. A search lead me to this: http://www.evalbum.com/3036
Anyone got a photo of Liz Hurley in ‘that’ dress, I’m not into naming my bikes or getting all touchy feely about a lump of metal. Yes they look nice and interesting but thats about as far it goes for me.
Given the diversity of bikes presented, beauty really is in the eye of the beholder. I'm a big believer in the idea that "form follows function."
Ignition coils for CDIs are neither 6 volt nor 12 volt. CDI coils work on a completely different principle than "induction coils". The capacitor inside the CDI gets charged to on the order of 200 - 300 volts, and then is discharged into the ignition coil.
Technically, such ignition coils are "pulse transformers". They typically have somewhere around a 1 : 100 (primary : secondary) turns ratio. Their primary resistance is very low (usually under 1 ohm).
I just searched "CDI ignition coil" on eBay and found something for $8.25 USD shipped from China.
Regarding item #7 (I called it a "beauty cover"). Perhaps a better name could be "access cover" or "body cover" or just "cover"? It's called "airbox cover" in the OSSA parts book. But that's not a good translation. They call the actual airbox cover the "air filter manifold".
Although it's desirable to keep item #7 installed, I suggested testing without it. I rode my bike for an entire day without that cover (which made getting to the diagnostic port easier on the 2011 model). I can tell you the fan was loud, very loud, objectionably loud! Also, the 2014 cover has louvered openings whereas the 2011 cover does not. So I think the cover must have some affect on cooling.
Flywheel AC its rectified and regulated inside the regulator, not in the ecu.
I think it's both.
Item 7 below is what I am calling the "beauty cover".
I see what you mean about VR wire! I was told by a knowledgeable person that works with Arctic Cat snowmobiles (also uses similar Kokusan Denki ECU) the fuel pump is powered separately. A lot of what I found lead me to agree with that. But I'm not so sure now. I don't have a running bike right now to investigate further.
When you run K-Scan, "pump voltage" and "battery voltage" are reported separately.
P.S. I recently found out that the OSSA fuel pump is a standard part used in other motorcycles. This makes me think it odd not to just run it from 12V (battery) power.
2001 250 smoother running
in Sherco
Posted