jbrandt

New clutch and some Bel Ray 75w gear saver fixed it right up. No more cold drag. No need for the clutch fix.

I was being careful! that chunk was already loose, and that's just were I noticed it. I just bent it up a little to make it more obvious. Like I said, I'm pretty sure it's a 21 year old clutch, so I don't mind replacing it anyway.

So I finally get around to doing the clutch fix. I get about 3/4 through the first plate and this happens: I guess I'll be buying some new friction plates... doh! I'm pretty sure this clutch is 21 years old...

Yes, the green sticker is definitely an advantage. I was glad to get one since trials bikes are often referred to as "grey sticker" bikes. My brother is State Parks OHV law enforcement, and was telling me some DMVs are pretty strict about how the "3 or a C" in the VIn is interpreted. Some have had issues that if it doesn't have a 3 OR a C it wouldn't even qualify as a red sticker even if it's old enough like mine is to be grandfathered. Yeah, I had previously gotten ahold of a guy from Beta USA and he said the 2000's are pretty much the same as 01-03's aside form the fork. I considered converting to like a 250 since I think the bottoms are the same, but that's also a pricey option (saw cylinders for like $500+) unless I can wave a magic wand and find a used top end somewhere. Thanks for the info.

I've been considering a cylinder head spacer for my 2000 Rev3 270. When I see videos of folks (granted, on much more modern bikes) it almost seems like they just let the weight of their leg fall on the lever and it starts. And I'm jealous, I feel like I have to hulk out on mine and put my full body weight on it. I'm also coming off an injury (dual broken wrists), so I'm sure there's some strengthening to do as well, but it was a beast to start before my injuries, too. So, I'm thinking a head spacer may do the trick. I'm not worried about the loss in power, a 270 is *more* than enough for a novice trial rider like me. I found this thread from 2013 that mentioned you could go as much as a 3mm spacer (actually x3 1mm spacers) could work, but that was for a gasgas, so not sure how well that applies to my 270... The other issue is finding parts. It's an old bike so parts are always hard to find. I also live in the States, which makes parts for a 21 year old Italian trials bike even harder to find... And before anyone tells me just to get a smaller displacement bike... Look, my trials bike is old enough to buy alcohol, do you think I have the money for a another bike? lol cheers, and thanks

I know what you mean. I have a 2000 Rev3 270, and that thing seems like a beast to start. I've been considering something like a cylinder head spacer to lesson the compression a little. I hear that makes them a little easier to start. I don't mind a reduction in power, as it's got more than enough power for me already, as this is my first trials bike, and I'm coming from a 250 4 stroke trail bike. I think the problem you may run into is fitment. I know with mine it probably wouldn't fully retract into the frame in which case I'd catch my leg on it all the time. Just an idea, but it might be easiest (if you have the room) to have one made. Buy a replacement lever and cut it and have a welder lengthen it.

Oh I did that on my trail bike, well Tubliss... And yeah, it's mind boggling how much grip it has, especially combined with the gummy hybrid tire. Just need to learn to trust that the bead doesn't need a rim lock like the trail/mx bikes do.

Quite honestly I'm not sure what it has. I'm sure that at least at some point it was tubeless, but it's 20 years old, and I'm probably the 3rd or 4th owner. Could be anything inside there, maybe even rocks, lol. Again, this exposes my noob-ness, but I guess it's just a foreign concept to think about a rear motorcycle tire without a rim-lock running 4 psi... Is there just some magic trials voodoo that keeps the bead on at 4psi? My tires definitely need to be replaced sooner rather than later, they are cracked and worn down, but at this point still holding air, so I'm letting that bear sleep until I pull the trigger on new tires. I'd rather not take it off just to see what it has inside until I have a replacement on hand. My luck it wouldn't seat again or the tire would fall apart as I'm putting it back on. I found that since I used HD tubes in my trail bike, the weight penalty of Tubliss was effectively zero, and the advantages of being able to essentially run zero psi with almost no chance of blowing a bead was of great benefit.

Okay, I couldn't really find a discussion thread on tires aside from the odd mention of tire brands or tubliss here and there, and since I have a Beta, I'm putting it here. If there's a better area for this type of post, I'll certainly head over there... I'm mostly curious as to people's thoughts on the different types of tire (tyre) systems. Not brands like Dunlops vs. IRC or whatever. I'm thinking about true tubeless vs. tubliss vs. tubes (light or heavyweight) I'm new to trials (but not new to trail bikes), so I'm really curious what people are running. I recently put Tubliss on my trail bike and absolutely I love it, and I'm tending towards that when it's time for new tires. I've really been happy with the low pressure performance and the "rim lock" of the tubliss system, but it also comes at a slight weight disadvantage (unless you're running heavy duty tubes), which I'm sure I'd notice more on a trials bike. Anyhoo, thanks in advance, and happy riding

Interesting. I've heard more that you just want the front and rear to match, so that it feels balanced. Sounds like this is your first trials bike (mine too). Do you come from a trail/mx background? While this is my first trials bike too, I do come from a fairly extensive mountain bike background (and 15 years of moto trail riding, too). I used to teach maintenance classes and riding clinics thru the shop I was managing. The main thing is to not really get too wrapped up in the numbers. Suspension is so personal. Just like where you like your brake/clutch lever to sit, it's all personal preference. Just go find a bit of trail or a section where you can repeat it over and over. Ideally it will have a fairly varied terrain (rocks, ruts, jumps, whatever). For a trials bike, this mainly depends on your skill level, it may be as simple as just some slow circles, and a rocky semi-technical trail somewhere... Make sure it's something you can do fairly easily, because you want to be able to concentrate on your settings, not getting thru the section. Then start messing around with your settings ONE at a time, and repeat that section of trail. When you only change one setting at a time, you know for sure what changed and how that affects the ride. Keep changing that one thing until you feel either it getting better, or getting worse (then go back to where it felt best). This is my plan once my shoulder heals. Just get out to the local OHV park and mess around with the suspension for a couple hours. From the videos/tutorials I've seen, especially coming from a trail bike back ground, the setting will be softer than you think. Like that video I posted, you're probably going to bottom out on anything over 3 feet. Anyhoo, best of luck

Not sure if you saw my reply to your post in my other thread, but I'm running ~65mm sag in the front on my bike 2000 Rev 3 with the USD forks, and that seems perfectly rideable, but granted I haven't really ridden it since I first bought it (except tooling around in the back yard). I weigh 175ish (~80kg) without my gear on, so I'm not that different from you. So I don't think you should be trying for ~20-25mm sag with your weight on it. That seems pretty hard for a trials bike.

So the picture I posted was correct? Crap, okay, I could swear I had seen fork rebuilds with the washer between the 2 seals, so the retainer clip sits against the washer, not the rubber seal. I see my mistake now, thanks for the correction! Good thing I haven't actually ridden it... Hopefully I can get them out and redo it without ruining them. Damnit.

22mm of sag seems awfully hard. That sounds more like sag for an MX bike. I'm currently running about 65mm in the front (with my body weight). Granted, I haven't had much time (any, really, I've been dealing with a shoulder injury as of late) to mess around with the settings since I bought it, but 65mm doesn't seem too far off. I weigh almost the same as you, as well. I found this video somewhat helpful. They don't really have specifics, but a general guide to get you started.

That's pretty funny.

I gotcha. Although this is trials, so anything is possible, lol

Never really said I was all that worried about it, but I wouldn't exactly say that potentially dripping fuel on a hot exhaust pipe is "nothing". Are you talking about the brass piece that the tubing slides on to? Just my luck that'd snap off, lol

I haven't been able to find a U.S. distributor of this stuff...

Hi all, The exhaust is so close to the carb, that one of the vent tubes has actually gotten partially melted because the tubing routes right over the exhaust pipe. I was lurking around trialssuperstore.com looks for ways to spend money, and found this: Anyone know if this would work for my 2000 Rev3 270 with Mikuni carb? I assume this is a relatively universal part, but you never know... https://trialssuperstore.com/products/dellorto-vent-90

You know now that you mention it, I have experienced a few mild kickbacks trying to start it. I hadn't put 2 and 2 together.that makes sense. Thanks for the tip. And yeah, I can imagine the look on your daughter's face. hilarious!

Truth be told I haven't even really ridden it (except a few circles in my yard) since I bought it. I am in the habit of closing the fuel off, since my other bike tends to leak as well. By cleaning the crankcase, do you just mean pulling the spark plug and kicking the living daylights out of it at WFO?

Yeah, really seems like I have either too much or not enough fuel. The plug is damp. I would say it's not soaking wet. I'm in Carmichael BTW, good to find someone local on here! I haven't even tried Prairie city yet. With the DMV closed, I can't get my bike registered (currently an Idaho bike), and AAA won't do out of state registrations.

Sorry, by "full beans" I meant a good hard kick, not the throttle. I did reuse the old in-line filter, but I'm sure it is the right way. I suppose it could have been backwords before, not sure actually... Thanks for the tip on the throttle cable. I had unscrewed it and tugged on it a bit but it didn't move, so didn't want to force it. Cheers

Ok, been doing a little work on my new (to me) 2000 Rev3 270. Fork seals, new fender, custom spark arrestor, new fuel line, nothing major, certainly nothing major with the engine. It ran great, started 1st kick most of the time, as long as I gave it the beans. But now, after I got it all back together, it won't start. Like it won't even try. I pulled the plug, it's got spark, and the carb is getting fuel. I know 2 strokes are stupid simple (although I admit this is my first non weed-eater 2 stroke, lol), so what am I missing? I can't imagine I've completely clogged up the carb, just from replacing the fuel line (it has an inline filter, too). THis does bring up another question. I was going to take the carb off and give it a real good once over on the bench, but I got a little stumped with the throttle cable. It's got a cap that's threaded on top of the carb that the throttle cable goes into. What's the trick for removing the cable so I can take the carb to the bench? I pulled the float bowl off with the cable still attached and there's no signs of buildup, it's rather clean inside!

Yeah, like I said above, that was my problem too. Not many used bikes, especially in my price range... I pretty much bought the first bike that I saw that was within 100 miles of me. I'd say if you find one that is in good condition, don't pass on it, even if it might be "undersized". Better to ride an undersized bike, than no bike at all while you wait for that "perfect" bike. I found very early on that having an under powered bike makes you a better rider because you are forced to focus on your riding skills. With a big bike you just hammer the throttle and hang on.

If you are like me, you don't really have a lot to choose from when looking at used bikes. I recently bought a 2000 Beta 270 as my first trials bike. Would I have liked maybe a newer 4 stroke with a smaller engine? Sure, but there weren't any that were anywhere near my price range. If I would have seen a 125 for sale in my area in my price range, I probably would have taken a look at it, too.