RonH

I’ve heard good things from all of them except the Heidenau. Heidenau makes tires for older or vintage bikes and have a good reputation but not so much for their trial tires. I’m also pretty sure you’re running a tubeless tire on the back and, I believe, Heidenau only makes tube tires. If cost is an issue I’d go with the IRC because they’re much less expensive and many reports rave about them and say they do everything a trial tire needs to. That’s (IRC T-R-11) what I’m getting next. The difference between the Michelin tires and Dunlops is like spitting hairs. They all have excellent reputations. The Dunlop TL01 is their newest version. The difference between them are in how soft the tread is, weight and sidewall stiffness. The differences are minimal, however. You’ll need to decide which will work best for where you ride and style of riding. Mitas has a new version of trials tire that I’d like to try, but they’re not available near me. This new version is reputed to be a big step up from their older version. Who knows if it’s true though?

Nice looking bike!

I love all three of your beauties! Your TY looks fantastic (so does the Honda), it still has the tail and headlight on it along with the original plastics. Plus, I can see that awesome, pristine saddle you didn’t know you had. Thanks so much for the photos!

Hey Tybone, would you be willing to post a photo or two of your TY? I’d love to see it!

I’m not sure I agree with an MTB helmet so I’m putting this out there for consideration. There’s an old saying that goes like this, “Buy the best helmet you can afford!”. The reason being is that you’re playing Russian roulette with your brain. MTB helmets aren’t subject to the same testing standards as DOT helmets are. Yes, trials riding isn’t as fast as street or MX but what happens if you go down and the bike lands on your head that’s next to a tree, rock or hard pack. The shells on MTB helmets aren’t as strong as a rated helmet because MTB bikes weigh a fraction of what a motorcycle weighs.

Holy cow! You are one lucky leprechaun! That cover looks pristine. Buy a lottery ticket.

Welcome to the forum! I had a 1974 TY250 myself when I was 15. I absolutely loved that bike. I had a crash on it and was hospitalized with a concussion and when I got home from the hospital I couldn’t find my TY in the garage. My mother sold it. She kept the money from the sale too! See your other post about a seat. I sent you some options.

I don’t know if you’d be interested in this but through the following links you could put one together. The seat pan will need new foam but it would be an economical way to get an OEM looking seat. I found another link on eBay that was selling, what they claim, is an original, new seat but they want over $9000 for it. Yes, $9000 is correct. Seat cover: https://www.ebay.com/itm/152173175811 Seat pan: https://www.ebay.com/itm/388685489803?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOoowxMbSNwRd0_T2grI0G3cTK_SVgPjNh_PG14jIfwzm-IOkXYCXH1M Just for fun, below is the link for the $9000 seat. It’s rediculous, I know. https://www.ebay.com/itm/155945452638?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOopsjTnPTsYqxoH5moPUHu_Beh0nkNb6Akoy1cUXrgTmKqSZjDRxZ2o

Triad, below is a link to a US company that specializes in electrical components for older bikes. Not sure if it will have the right one for you, and if not, it’s still a very good source to bookmark. I believe they make everything in-house so it may be possible to get what you need built. They also have a CDI, ECU Repair Unit also. Good luck! https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/

Reghusky, I’d suggest you use an epoxy putty to fill the hole. It’s very easy to control the application. You simply cut off the amount you need and mix it with your fingers. If you use a 5 minute liquid epoxy it could run inside your carburetor and make problems worse. I inserted a link to JB Weld SteelStik that’s worked great for me and it’s formulated to work on metals. You could use the leftover to put in your toolkit in case you break something while on the trail. The other option, if you can determine the thread, is to put a screw/bolt in the hole then tighten it down. That way it can be removed easily in the future. https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick?srsltid=AfmBOoow4TSrJyoiKEz1T--jEoSYMv0MvMKrvs4AjsApeWY9MXnM8HpG

Welcome to the forum! I found the following. Hope it helps. https://www.ebay.com/itm/204636602989

Phil, it’s very easy to replace a head gasket/o-rings. I did it for the first time and it only took about 15 minutes and I’m no mechanic. Simply unbolt the head, lift it off, clean the surfaces, place new gasket/o-rings on then bolt it back together, tightening the bolts in a criss cross pattern, little by little, until the torque requirement so you don’t bend/warp the head. I believe your bike is air cooled so you don’t need to worry about draining the coolant. I had a friend in high school years ago, who had no experience mechanically, and he replaced his head gaskets on a TY 250 with no internet or YouTube to help. It’s very straightforward. You can do it yourself for sure. Good luck!

Hey Jeff! Welcome to the forum. I just did a simple search and found several TY80 original wheels on eBay. Maybe I’m misunderstanding what you need though. Anyway, below are two links to a full rear wheel and a front. Good luck finding what you need! https://www.ebay.com/itm/256739081016?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item https://www.ebay.com/itm/162588017989?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOoopomzC1tONF4ljLp0sdbSqOeiIC_rvqKKSSo1g02_aOgSIJGkJkpY