RonH

Gotgas, I would try the Kenda IBEX trials specific tires in a heartbeat. I’ve read several reviews stating people love the tires. Kenda also has an exceptional reputation in the tire industry. The only problem I have with them is they aren’t available locally for me. Go for it and don’t worry about it.

Welcome! That’s great to hear about your sons. Would love to see some photos of them doing their thing. I can’t get my son interested. How’d you do it?

Let me know what you find, Pat. I’d be really interested. I hope it’s not too serious and good luck!

Hey Pat, I’m no expert but I think the crack in the casing is your problem. It was probably kicked very hard in its life and cracked. Now, it’s my guess, that the kickstarter flexes the shaft just enough so that things are not engaging properly. The kickstart pinion gear and shaft may even be damaged due to the flex. My suggestion would be to open everything up, examine the shaft and gear. I’d also get a new clutch casing or potentially weld the existing crack. Good luck!

I’ve heard good things from all of them except the Heidenau. Heidenau makes tires for older or vintage bikes and have a good reputation but not so much for their trial tires. I’m also pretty sure you’re running a tubeless tire on the back and, I believe, Heidenau only makes tube tires. If cost is an issue I’d go with the IRC because they’re much less expensive and many reports rave about them and say they do everything a trial tire needs to. That’s (IRC T-R-11) what I’m getting next. The difference between the Michelin tires and Dunlops is like spitting hairs. They all have excellent reputations. The Dunlop TL01 is their newest version. The difference between them are in how soft the tread is, weight and sidewall stiffness. The differences are minimal, however. You’ll need to decide which will work best for where you ride and style of riding. Mitas has a new version of trials tire that I’d like to try, but they’re not available near me. This new version is reputed to be a big step up from their older version. Who knows if it’s true though?

Nice looking bike!

I love all three of your beauties! Your TY looks fantastic (so does the Honda), it still has the tail and headlight on it along with the original plastics. Plus, I can see that awesome, pristine saddle you didn’t know you had. Thanks so much for the photos!

Hey Tybone, would you be willing to post a photo or two of your TY? I’d love to see it!

I’m not sure I agree with an MTB helmet so I’m putting this out there for consideration. There’s an old saying that goes like this, “Buy the best helmet you can afford!”. The reason being is that you’re playing Russian roulette with your brain. MTB helmets aren’t subject to the same testing standards as DOT helmets are. Yes, trials riding isn’t as fast as street or MX but what happens if you go down and the bike lands on your head that’s next to a tree, rock or hard pack. The shells on MTB helmets aren’t as strong as a rated helmet because MTB bikes weigh a fraction of what a motorcycle weighs.

Holy cow! You are one lucky leprechaun! That cover looks pristine. Buy a lottery ticket.

Welcome to the forum! I had a 1974 TY250 myself when I was 15. I absolutely loved that bike. I had a crash on it and was hospitalized with a concussion and when I got home from the hospital I couldn’t find my TY in the garage. My mother sold it. She kept the money from the sale too! See your other post about a seat. I sent you some options.

I don’t know if you’d be interested in this but through the following links you could put one together. The seat pan will need new foam but it would be an economical way to get an OEM looking seat. I found another link on eBay that was selling, what they claim, is an original, new seat but they want over $9000 for it. Yes, $9000 is correct. Seat cover: https://www.ebay.com/itm/152173175811 Seat pan: https://www.ebay.com/itm/388685489803?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOoowxMbSNwRd0_T2grI0G3cTK_SVgPjNh_PG14jIfwzm-IOkXYCXH1M Just for fun, below is the link for the $9000 seat. It’s rediculous, I know. https://www.ebay.com/itm/155945452638?chn=ps&mkevt=1&mkcid=28&google_free_listing_action=view_item&srsltid=AfmBOopsjTnPTsYqxoH5moPUHu_Beh0nkNb6Akoy1cUXrgTmKqSZjDRxZ2o

Triad, below is a link to a US company that specializes in electrical components for older bikes. Not sure if it will have the right one for you, and if not, it’s still a very good source to bookmark. I believe they make everything in-house so it may be possible to get what you need built. They also have a CDI, ECU Repair Unit also. Good luck! https://www.regulatorrectifier.com/

Reghusky, I’d suggest you use an epoxy putty to fill the hole. It’s very easy to control the application. You simply cut off the amount you need and mix it with your fingers. If you use a 5 minute liquid epoxy it could run inside your carburetor and make problems worse. I inserted a link to JB Weld SteelStik that’s worked great for me and it’s formulated to work on metals. You could use the leftover to put in your toolkit in case you break something while on the trail. The other option, if you can determine the thread, is to put a screw/bolt in the hole then tighten it down. That way it can be removed easily in the future. https://www.jbweld.com/product/steelstik-epoxy-putty-stick?srsltid=AfmBOoow4TSrJyoiKEz1T--jEoSYMv0MvMKrvs4AjsApeWY9MXnM8HpG