RonH

It could be also that you need to adjust the screw on the lever that presses on the master cylinder piston. If the piston is not in the correct position, when pressed or opened, it effectively blocks fluid flow and won’t drain and it won’t allow fluid to flow from the bottom up either. Screw it out a turn and try again. Turn the screw, little by little, until you can pump fluid. Another possibility is that one of the ports inside the cylinder could be blocked by debris. Use a very fine sewing needle to clear it out.

A lot of those Gasgas 300s have been returned because there’s too much power the rider can’t control. That’s why you’ll find them for such a great deal. Totty79 gave you some valuable advice. I have a 2023 Gasgas 250 TXT and had to lower the compression and put a flywheel, slow throttle and taller (11 tooth) front sprocket on it before I was comfortable. It’s now basically a clubman bike. Also, I got my 250, brand new, on sale for $4,999. If you look you’ll find a good deal too. Try Motohunt: https://motohunt.com/motorcycles-for-sale?q=Gasgas+250+txt&sort=a and search for least expensive. I just saw this one https://motohunt.com/l/7046299/2024-GASGAS-TXT-Racing-250 for $4,999. I don’t know where you are but if you’re in the states you can have it shipped for a reasonable cost. I had mine shipped from Georgia to Oregon for $300 through Uship. Good luck!

I couldn’t find any when I last looked. Most trials pants don’t even have pockets. I got some MX pants instead and have been very happy with them. They don’t have built in pads but do allow room for knee and shin pads. They also have leather patches at the knees to prevent burns from the exhaust. As far as hip pads go, you’d likely have to buy shorts with padding sewn in and wear them under your pants. They make them for mountain bikers and other active sports. There are both summer lightweight MX pants and fall/spring pants. There’s a much wider selection of MX pants out there than there are trial specific ones. Bonne chance! P.S. - If you do buy padded shorts or separate pads I’d recommend D30 type non-Newtonian liquid pads and not just foam. https://www.d3o.com/partners/solutions/ https://g-form.com/collections/baseball/products/elite-sliding-shorts

AI bent Toni’s forks.

I grew up around Yellowstone, Cody, Wy. actually, and know about having the crap scared out of me too by bears.

https://www.thehellteam.com/brake-caliper-rep-kit-hebo-4p?srsltid=AfmBOopyq1w-7_-_H7ZJ41c2BBUTtNh2BAzMRGIADtm-L99l4MaROWy_ https://trialssuperstore.com/products/hebo-brake-caliper-piston?srsltid=AfmBOop738U4hM-MFl32cY7ZF5E-t010trpDNStAFOUEMrQ2BH6JsF8I https://www.ebay.com.sg/itm/224240631710

Thanks lemur! After thinking about it, I agree with you, that I don’t want to risk it. I think it’s just up to personal preference on how much one wants to spend. I’m a firm believer in “you get what you pay for” but it’s tempting to save a few bucks. I don’t need the bearings yet but know now what I’ll be purchasing in the future. Cheers!

Awesome! Thanks for the puller photo also! I’ve got everything to build one.

Lemur, what brand of bearings do you use?

Rich, I really need to apologize for saying there was no sticker on my bike. I just took a closer look and found it behind the light shroud. I’m sorry but I never noticed it before. Anyway, here it is. I hope this helps. Image obviously rotated 90°.

Rich, I have a 2023 TXT 250 and there are no stickers/stamps for competition or emissions on it. Usually, off road vehicles don’t have to meet these standards so I did a quick Google search to confirm. Below is what I found. Customs should obviously be aware of this already. Good luck! “Generally, imported trials motorcycles do not need to meet US emissions standards, provided they are not motor vehicles as defined by the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration (NHTSA). NHTSA defines a motor vehicle as a vehicle manufactured primarily for public street, road, and highway use. Trials bikes, which are primarily used for off-road competition, typically fall outside this definition and are not subject to the same regulations as on-road vehicles.”

Konrad, thanks for all. The lever is moving freely and it’s all extremely clean so that’s not the problem but I’ll give the gravity bleed idea a go today. Hadn’t thought of that. Thanks!

Thanks Alan! Yes, the bleed valve is clear and undamaged. It leaks small drips of fluid when open but I’ll take it off and check again. Cheers!

Need advice. I was washing my bike on the lawn and the kickstand sunk in into the soil and tipped the bike over jamming the front brake caliper. The lever, afterwards, would not spring back. I took the caliper off and forced the pistons open but the lever still had not sprung back. I then took the master cylinder apart and freed the piston. I inspected all the parts and they had no damage whatsoever. Then I tried bleeding the brakes, both by reverse and from the reservoir, but I cannot get the system to take any fluid at all. The ports in the master cylinder are open and clean. The pistons in the caliper move freely. I’ve checked the cable and it is free of clogs also. I’ve tried six times and failed. Any advice is welcome and appreciated. Thanks in advance!

It’s great to hear you’re still riding at your young age. It’s very encouraging and gives me hope for myself. Keep at it!

Thanks for that video. I’m having the exact problem with my brake. Very helpful video.

I made this seat for my ‘23 TXT. It’s made of two types of foam. The first is a closed cell, very stiff, foam I glued up from half inch sheets and the second foam is a soft, 1” thick, closed cell, neoprene in the area where I sit. The arch below is reinforced with 6 layers of fiberglass and the whole thing is attached to the fender with 2” strips of hook and loop. It’s very secure and doesn’t move around. I then sprayed the entire thing with Plastidip rubber. It wearing very well and if it peels or cracks I’ll just spray it again.

Hey! I agree with lemur 100%. I had the same issue with mine, when I first got it, and soon found out that trials bikes are extremely responsive with just lightest touch on the throttle in first gear. It’s intentional to go from 0 to quick very quickly to hop from rock to rock on the back wheel for example. That’s not the style I ride though so I put a flywheel weight, a 1mm head spacer, a slow throttle and changed the front sprocket to an 11 from 9 on it. It tamed it down considerably so I, a novice, can handle the bike easier with better throttle and clutch control. The flywheel weight and front sprocket change had the most effect on mine. Aside from all that, starting out in second gear may help you also to relieve the “jerkiness” out of it. Also, like lemur mentioned, use your clutch to smooth it out. Also, try reading this thread. https://www.trialscentral.com/forums/topic/78583-s3-low-compression-head-replacement/

I had one of those when I was a teenager in the 70s. Those are fantastic bikes and I’m really jealous of you for having it. I wish I had kept mine. It looks like it’s in fantastic shape too. Most of them I’ve seen for sale always have a couple of huge dents in the gas tank and rust everywhere. Even the seat looks in good shape. Keep that thing!

I’m very very late to the party on this but am still impressed by your work cascao. Nicely done! I just finished making a new larger brake foot peg. I don’t have a lathe or a mill just a cordless drill, disc sander and files. Not as impressive as yours but I thought it turned out ok for my first foray into “machining” parts. I drilled the largest holes with a spade bit. It actually worked.

All the specs are on the last page of this PDF. https://www.montesa.com/wp-content/uploads/2025/01/25YM_MONTESA_EN_WEB.pdf

That looks fantastic! I wasn’t expecting to see it in such great shape after only seeing the photos of the ignition. Well done. I like the Mini Cooper too! I’d love to see more pictures of that also but that’s probably not allowed on a trials motorcycle website though. Maybe if you put the bike in the boot of your Mini (I understand there’s lots of room inside those little cars) you could bypass the rules. 😉 Cheers!

I agree 100% and do have personal protection. Besides my boots I have a full CE 2 rated kit for my torso, shoulders, elbows and knees. I only have one riding buddy at the moment but he rides a Japanese enduro bike so most of the tools required are different. We each carry our own but we do share universal tools and gear when needed. Thanks for the input! I appreciate it.

Thanks for all that and I agree wholeheartedly so I think the best I can do is to put another entire bike in my backpack and then a third one across the front forks. Just in case... 😉 Nah, I’m just looking for the most common failures. I guess I should’ve mentioned that before. I’m in the process of getting some extra levers. Thanks much!