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Just added superglue to my kit. Great suggestion! I also added some bacon strips (my palate doesn’t fancy “turds”) as mentioned. Yum!
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Thank you Faussy! Good to know! Exactly what I was hoping to hear!
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I very rarely ride sections where my car is parked 20 yards away but more trail riding where my car is miles away and I’m just wondering what others, who ride similarly, take along with them. The things I take are carried in a backpack and include basic tools (sockets, Torx sockets, screw bits, pliers, spark p. wrench), spark plug, first aid, phone, tire pencil gauge, extra air filter, tire sealant, extra fuel, small flashlight, silicone tape, wire, zip ties, 2 chain quick links, and water. I don’t carry tire irons because I’ve had very good luck with sealants. I’m also not interested in clothing because that changes with the seasons but I’m wondering if I’m missing anything else important that I haven’t thought of. What’s something you needed but didn’t have?
I should also note that the tools I take are the ones I do my maintenance with hoping to have what I need.
Thanks!
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Watch the first video in this article. Sammy Miller takes the flywheel off himself. He just uses a strap holder and a wrench. No puller. He also briefly mentions how to adjust the ignition. Hopefully you can see what he does. Good luck!
https://sammymiller.co.uk/sammy-miller-mbe-unveils-newly-restored-miller/
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Scorpaian: People have been trying to help you and you argue and throw their help back in their faces. They’ve been generous with their time and effort. You should say thank you instead of getting p****d off. You’re the problem on this forum not the others. Lemur, Konrad and others have been very helpful to me in the past and have been gentlemen about it too.
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I know that the 2023 model 300 is .3mm. I would assume it’d be the same then in 2020. Hope this helps.
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https://www.ebay.com/itm/266901977841
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This is just an FYI: The new generation started in 2023, not ‘24 so the ‘23, ‘24 and ‘25 models are exactly the same. If you’re looking to save some money you can get a ‘23 model for less. I do, however, own a ‘23 TXT 250 and love the bike but can’t help with comparison of others. There are quite a few videos on YouTube reviewing the new generation and some that compare them to other marques. Good luck!
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Another cause may be that the compression is very high. I had the same problem with my 2023 Gasgas TXT. It seemed that it’d take a rhino’s kick to start it. I’m a small guy and it was a total workout for me. I lowered the compression with a 1mm head spacer and it’s very easy to kick now. S3 makes low compression head inserts for Betas that maybe you can consider.
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I gotta say that I love your posts and seeing “rotten” turned to “gold”. Can’t wait to see the end of this show! Thank you!
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That bike is absolutely beautiful! Nicely done.
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I’m riding sometimes trial and other times dual sport, possibly similar to what you have in mind. I have a pair of Gaerne Balance Pro Tech and love them. There’s no break-in period at all and they’re extremely comfortable. Also, very easy to walk in like they’re a sneaker. I like the soles the most because they are very grippy and just enough stiffness (stiffer than a sneaker) for support yet allow me to walk and move my ankles around. There’s no heal either so you can move your feet on pegs anywhere you want. They have another version of the same boot called Balance Oiled that are more expensive because they have a waterproof liner inside. They’re marketed as both trial boots and adventure boots.
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Found this photo of Surflex clutch plates to fit your bike and they look nothing like what you have. My guess is that someone put in a pack for another bike that was “close enough” at least for a while.
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Sorry but no. He did that in 1975 for me. The bike is long gone.
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Search Ebay “gasgas txt workshop manual” and you’ll see several to choose from. Most cost $35.
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I have a similar problem with my right arm also. I was severely injured when I was 12 years old and I loved riding my bike. After the injury I couldn’t reach far enough to hold the bar with my right hand so my dad put an extra piece of bar (6” or 7” long) on a hinge near the end of the original bar. The shorter added on piece extended it closer to my body. It was able to swing about 180°. Then he mounted a grip and rear brake onto the extension. When I turned to the right the extension swung outward and the opposite happened when turning left. I had very good control with both hands on the bars. It worked for me. Since then I’ve had some surgeries to give me more freedom of movement and I don’t need one now but I’m not doing splats or anything like that just mainly trail riding and having fun.
Best of luck to you!
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Has anyone printed a kickstand foot extender for Gasgas trials bikes? There are options for every other motorcycle in the world but not for Gasgas trials bikes. At least I can’t find one.
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Ditto! Broken ribs are the worst. Glad you got a vest.
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I have a Leatt 5.5 that covers my ribs very well (broke 3 last year in crash). It’s protection is very good at the ribs and I don’t notice it on while riding but others have complained it’s too hot and that It doesn’t have enough venting holes. I wish I had bought an Alpinestars one instead. They have much better venting, good rib protection and level 2 CE. Lots of models to choose from. Go to their website. They have some models on sale right now.
You could also check out motocrossvest.com for a Kevlar version that people say are very good. No venting though.
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That is absolutely beautiful. Nicely done! I bought a 1974 TY250 in 1975 and still dream about it. I loved that bike so much. I crashed it though and while in the hospital with scrapes and a concussion my mother sold it without warning. I didn’t even get the cash from the sale. I’ll hit her up for it though. 😉
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Good idea Konrad! I just wanted to add, in case you don’t know davy1 how it works.
Copper annealing works great to revive “work hardened” copper. This will allow you to reuse used copper washers over if you don’t have a new one handy. Work hardening happens when you, for example, tighten down your oil plug. The tightening squishes the copper washer to make a good seal but the squishing hardens the copper. That’s why they always say to replace the washers every time you change the oil. Annealing them softens them up again.
To anneal them you simply heat them with a torch until cherry red, making sure you move the flame around the washer to heat the entire thing, and then quenching it in water.
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I had a similar problem and the answer for me was the throttle cable and not the carburetor. The rubber boot on the cable that fits over the end of the throttle was pulled away slightly causing stretch sometimes and slack sometimes. It was hard to see because I was concentrating on the carb. If this is the problem put a zip tie over the throttle end of the rubber boot and sinch it down tightly against the throttle.
I hope this helps. Good luck!
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Thanks Mark! I was surprised too that no one had commented on it. Anyway, I’m glad you may have gotten some inspiration for yourself. If you give it a go and want to bounce some ideas off of me or have questions let me know.
Thanks again!
Ron
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I thought some of you might like to see how I transport my bike around. I don’t have a truck or trailer and was not even considering getting one just to haul my bike around so I designed and built this one and have used it with no issues for about a year now. I’ve read others describe something similar but I had never seen photos of what it looked like so as an architect I thought I’d design and make my own that’s simple, effective and affordable.
I drive a Mini Cooper S and first looked at off the shelf carriers but all I found, in the US, were overly large and cumbersome plus they required a 2” hitch setup. Also, with the hitch I put on the car, the only option was a 1 1/4” hitch, which gave me a tongue weight of 300 pounds. With the off-the-shelf models, a 2” hitch and my motorcycle was pushing the tongue weight close the 300 pound limit. The carrier I made is about 25 pounds so with my bike weight of about 160 pounds I have a safety margin of 115 pounds above whatever the safety margin is on the hitch. It’s made of 1 1/4” square, steel tubing with a wall thickness of 3/16”. After it was all welded up with extra plates at the joins I drilled 5/8” holes so I could use locking hitch pins to hold it by the foot pegs. I also drilled and tapped two more holes to hold the bike down using the skid plate at the front. I just simply lift the bike up onto it and bolt it down. Easy peasy!
The paint has taken a beating over the year but it’s worked swimmingly. It’s easy to store in the car boot too which is a plus because it’s so small. There’s no ramp, straps or tire supports because they aren’t needed and the shocks are never compressed.
Anyway, it’s worked out well and I’d do it again in a heart beat. Just thought someone might be interested.
Be safe!
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It seems light to me too. Now you’ve got me concerned. Errors do occur in books. When I smack my spokes they give off a nice sharp ping though. I think I’ll call my local dealer to ask the question. Good luck!
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