bultaco49

Hi As mentioned prep is everything when plating a frame. I recently tried re-plating a Sammy Miller Bultaco frame which had had a hard life in nickel. To have this done properly by a firm taking your request seriousy I would suggest you will not get any change out of

Hi EGJ Put February 23rd in you diary. Its the Club Bultaco trial (venue near London TBA)! I suspect there wil be a selection of 1971 model 80s present (mine at least). Its as much a social gathering as a trial. Easy route is very easy and Dave Renham (Bultaco UK) will have a selection of bits for sale. http://www.bultacouk.com/ Tim

hi - try this link. http://world.altavista.com/babelfish/trurl...exttclasico.htm You should find your manual by clicking on no.10 manuales and go through the list. The english is in babel translation (hence wild level for Montesa Cota) but the exploded diagrams are a help. If you are looking for manual's etc. on the internet look for images rather than text. All the pages arre saved as jpeg files. For Montesa try manuales which is the Spanish word for manuals. Spanish sites are the best for spares (and many have an English site) so brush up your Spanish & use a translation service for e-mails. They often don't reply to English. If you use ebay to look for spares clic on a worldwide search. Much more comes up but be careful of shipping charges. Most of one of my Bultaco's came for Tasmania! the US and Spain partly in exchange for Montesa bits. Hope this helps Tim

Hi - I have had two sets of Bultaco stanchions hard chromed at Philpotts (Luton) who can be found at http://www.pittedforks.co.uk/. Both jobs were excellent and I would recommend them. They will collect, grind our pitting, hard chrome, regrind and send back for

from the flywheel magneto base plate there should be a green, black, red and yellow wires. Connect yellow to number 1 on the connector block, red to 2, black to 3 and green to 4. From 3 on connector block a black wire should run to HT coil live. From 4 on connector block a white wire should run and be earthed by a HT coil retaning screw. If you want to connect a cut out switch run a wire to live (unearthed) side of switch from number 3 on connector block. When depressed the cutout should earth this connection. If wires from magneto have been changed black wire should connect to terminal on points (along with condensor). Green to tightly wound coil on stator plate (next to condensor) red to other end of this coil. Yellow connects to other coil on base plate. The most important wire not to be snagged to earth is the black wire from points to connector block and on to coil. Easier still is to fit an electronic system available with diagram and easy timing instuctions from Bultaco uk. Tim

Interesting asking price though - e5500 =

Hi everyone you can get just about any bearing cheaper and as good or better than manufacture's item if you have a vernier caliper and a little knowledge of bearing jargon. Here's a handy guide and good web supply site. Measure the bore, diameter & width & punch or if available read off 4 digit reference number on bearing rim and into search on site. You will get a list of options. Each option will start with 4 digit number (eg 6205, single row deep grooved - main bearing for Bultaco Sherpa) and if other than the basic single row deep grooved item will have letters and numbers following. These refer to seals or specialised bearings (eg 6205 2rsr, single row deep grooved with 2 rubber seals - rear wheel bearing Bultaco Sherpa) . A visit to the FAQ on the site below will unravel these codes. Its worth getting to know the codes as you can, for example, upgade unsealed wheel bearings (specified for my model 49 Bultaco) to bearings with seals which can stand up to immersion and a pressure washer. This can also be done with seals (which most bearing suppliers also stock) as again, for example, better than a single one contact sealing surface (specified for sleeve gear next to engine sprocket ditto Bultaco) is to upgrade to one with attached dust shield to keep grit away from seal. I've found http://simplybearings.co.uk/shop/index.php very helpful but there are other suppliers on the web and probably a local supplier. Personally I always specify a known good quality beaing such as SKF. There are some rubbish bearings out there. Tim

Hi I have a Kangoo which I transport a Bultaco Sherpa around in. If you have a bulkhead fitted it will have to come out as the front wheel has to be pushed up so it is jammed between the seats to be able to close the back doors. Lifting it in can be done alone - just! A tow ball can be fitted quite easily for a trailer. I have the 1.9 diesel which has been very reliable and reasonably nippy. Will cruise at 60 - 70 on the motorway all day but is really an around town van. Standard radio is cr*p. Diesel starter heater plugs don't last long. Other than that, good small van. Get one with sliding side door for access. If you buy an old gas van it comes fitted out with handy racking for all your bits and very good alarm system. Tim

Dave, Check out this page http://www.central-wheel.co.uk/cwc/spoke_d...ke_details.html Then take off another spoke, go to their home page and work through the order process, send it to them and they will make up spokes. However... Before you do this first check if you can thread the spokes through in the correct position. Some spokes cannot be threaded through individually. Also, try turning a few of the other nipples (as you will have to do to realign the wheel when you insert the new spokes). Bultaco spoke nipples have a habit of siezing and snapping and no ammount of wd40 will free them. To be honest, it will probably be easier (and cheaper) to go back to ebay and wait for a whole wheel to come up. Actually..... bite the bullet and buy a whole set of spokes and re-spoke the whole wheel - its a weeks worth of fun re-threading them and aligning the wheel! With red tank and trim the frame should be silver. Tim

The easy way to sort out Sherpa spark problems is to replace the whole of the ignition system with electronic set (from Bultaco uk for example). Its expensive at

Hi Scotty If your carb is flooding when running it will be either the the needle valve not seating properly or float punctured and sinking. Check to see if the float will float in a bowl of petrol. Blow through the petrol inlet banjo while holding the needle vale shut. If either are faulty they are available from Bultaco uk, Hitchcocks or Surrey Cycles (All have web sites). Amal float height is not adjustable so here is a handy site which will give Mk 1 assembly details to check. http://www.ingfatrygg.se/amal.html#toc or I have a PDF manual for Mk. 1 and 2 concentric carbs I can send you to help out Tim

Another source for the triangular silencer (and other Bultaco parts) is at http://romeromotos.com/ingles/principaleng.htm. It's a Spanish site but you can send and order in English. There is an online catalogue with photos.