bultaco49

Hi Greeves - there are a selection of TFS photos here - http://www.kivas.com/greeves/contrib/gdshow/gdshow.html This site was helpful for spare and info (though I was working on a Pathfinder)http://www.greevesmotorcyclesltd.com/index.html I mentioned the rigid because I have just finished a rebuild of a 1953 James trials special. I posted some photos and info on it in pre65 bikes section. Those lightweight rigids are direct decendents of Gas Gas, Bultaco etc. When you have finished your TFS I recommend a James Commando with BSA C15 forks. Tim

199b 340cc 6 speed. Only other six speeders were the 50cc models. Everything else was a 5 speed including 250 198b (Except model 10. 4 speed). Tim

Nice bike and a good project. I think you should move the tank under the back mudguard - that seems to be the latest fashion! When are you going to buy a rigid framed two-stroke lightweight to complete the collection? Tim

Hi - the nut on the bottom of the fork leg should be an allen head. If it is turning and not loosening, screw a long m5 setscrew gently into the fork oil drain screw hole to trap the base of the fork rod. Be careful doing this as if too much pressure is applied it will damage the rod. There are o-ring seals at the base of the leg and around allen screw. Replace them or fork oil will find its way past the screw. I also paste a little silicone around the scrw threads at the socket head. Its not the fitting of the seals that is a problem - its getting the old ones out! I always gently heat the fork leg around the top oil seals until the residual oil boils then use a fork removing tool (available from http://www.frost.co.uk/free_catalogue.asp or ebay). The top seal comes out easy but be careful removing base seal. If too much pressure is applied the fork ally will split. If it refuses to budge use a dremel with small grinder to cut the metal seal band. Even if a little alloy is removed it is better than a split seal housing. Can be fixed with locktight bearing seal or even some filler. Clean out the swarf! When replacing the seals lips face to the bottom. Heat the fork leg, lubricate seal and insert one at a time, preferably with a drift.

Hi - Yes I agree and defer to Nigel's experience and knowldge that the Miller frame on your bike was never popular or any improvment over the Bultaco frames though I'm not sure this is an impediment on the value front. Most of the frames or complete Millerised bikes that have been on sale recently have gone for above average Bultaco prices. I simply put this down to the 'Sammy Miller' effect and the urge to have something out of the ordinary (I'm guilty on this charge). There were two Miller frames for Bultaco. The earlier one looks like a model 80 slimline frame and I would argue was a better handling frame than the standard Bultaco. Sammy himself and the Miller team had lots of sucess with it. It also had the alloy bash plate subframe 8 years before Bultaco introduced it. The later frame (like your one) was built after Sammy had left the factory and really got left behind geometrically speaking as trials bikes and Bultaco's in particular evolved. Most people found the footpegs too high on the later frame and dropped them down and back. Can't quite see if this has been modified on yours. Here is the earlier frame -

Thanks for the comments. I thought that the tunable exhast was some sort of gimmick when I got the bike but there appears more to it. Tuning two strokes was in its infancy just after the 2nd WW and the concept of expansion boxes was known but not much developed or used in practice. The Burgess silencer I have fitted simply has the tail pipe blanked off and a horizontal slot between baffle box and tail. A sleeve open and closes the amount of slot exposed. Changing the slot does have a noticable effect on the characteristics of the engine starting from soft delivery of power to quick throttle response (lets not get too excited - we are only talking about a fairly standard Villiers 197 after all!) This must have been a common mod in the fifties as many of the old boys who come up to look at the bike remember this system. As I said, Bill Lomas mentions this in his book of which by chance the section on development of the James is available to read at http://books.google.co.uk/books?id=2-IWdGZ...snum=3#PPA54,M1 I would reccommend the whole book though - its a good read. I'l post some more photos of the bike tommorrow Here is a close up of the exhaust

Just finished a rebuild of a James swapped for a surplus Bultaco. Its interesting having a new 'old' bike and researching all about the history of both bike and manufacturer. There is a very good website for James bikes in general (http://www.simplywizard.co.uk/index.htm) and Bill Lomas's book, which is a great read in its self, also provided a lot of background for which I am indebted for the blurb below to go with the photos. I would add the bike to the garage but the manufacturer dropdown does not include James! Anyway, here is the blurb about the bike and some James trials history... The late 40s and early fifties saw an upsurge of 2-stroke trials specials built by both manufacturers and clubmen. From the latter part of that era this bike was built and is probably best described as a James Trials Special. It has, as its basis, a 1953 James Cadet J15 plunger frame. The rear plunger mechanism has been cut away and replaced with the plates which now locate the rear axle and wheel. The engine, which was a 122 Villiers on the J15, has been replaced with a 1953 Villiers 197cc 6e unit which has had various upgrades most notable of which is the Ajax Pearson head and barrel 210cc conversion. The gearbox is a standard wide ration 3 speed. The forks are from a BSA C15 and have been extended by inserting a spacer at lower end of stanchion. A one-off high level exhaust is fitted which is

Hi Classic transfers has some Cagiva transfers. They have always been very heplful on unobtainable Bultaco transfers. http://www.classictransfers.co.uk/html/eur..._transfers.html

Hi - try http://www.wvsfasteners.com/ or http://www.service-champions.co.uk/ They do stainless steel metric fine (along with all other fasteners)

Hi Malc - The two best sources of Bultaco info are - Historia de la sherpa T in English & Spanish which is available at cover price to import from Spain and Don Morley's 'Spanish Trials Bikes' which will go for

Here is a picture of a Steve Wilson Bultaco frame. The swing arm is mounted differently but the layout otherwise is similar and is finished in chrome or nickel. Tim

If last years show was anything to go by there were many twinshocks among the classics on display. Also many stands catering for makes and parts for twinshocks. I'm sure there will be plenty of everything again. I'm certainly going. Just for the luxury of the heated halls! It was freezing the last two years. I'll be on Dave Renham's Bultaco UK stand with two bikes among those on his display so I am lucky and already have my ticket. I've spent a week polishing my Sherpa and on the Sunday I will ride it at Ixions Norton trophy - invariably a mudfest! Ah well. Its what its really for after all...

Hi - The chain on an M49 should be a 428 if the sprockets are original and there is nothing special about them. Normal wear appears as a 'hooking' of the tooth as the wear undercuts the drive side of the tooth. Abnormal wear is usually because of slack chain, stretched chain or mis-aligned wheel. If you think your sprocket has abnormal wear check the alignment of the wheel by removing chain guard, standing back from the bike and looking along chain. It should appear parrallel from rear sprocket to engine sprocket. To get an idea of what you are looking for slacken wheel and twist snail cams to purposly mis-align chain. Wear from misalignment will appear as chain shaped wear on either side of the sprocket (both sides should be smooth). If the chain is stretched the obvious indicator is the snail cams are at their thickest adjustment (however some bultaco owners run with the wheel at this adjustment to give the longest wheelbase for extra traction in muddy conditions). Also the chain tensioner will be slack. If you are unaware of the chain and sprocket history I would change them all and have the wheel aligned by somone who can guide you through the process. If the chain comes off you run the risk of the chain fouling the rear mounting of the magneto case and ripping it off! possibly with a piece of the crankcase just by the gearbox mainshaft bearing. If you do upgrade consider changing to a 520 chain and sprockets. These are stronger. Only buy good quality chain and remember to face the split link away from chain rotation. Also by a new chain tensioner complete. The pivot wears as quickly as the rubbing block and if worn will drag the chain out of line when under tension. Forward tensioners are hard to get unfortunately. Bultaco UK or Miller have all the items you need. Tim

Here is a photo of a villiers 6e with an Ajax conversion (fitted in a 1951 James rigid). Other than this was made by B&C Pearson, Knowle, Birmingham in the 50s and 60s and is, along with the Vale Onslow conversion the only conversions allowed for pre60 villers engined scramblers, I can't find out much about it. Anyone have any more info? Tim

Hi Malcra Ask Gavin if he wants a frame for his M80 engine. I'm fairly sure I have one with swing arm at the back of my lock up which is surplus to requirements and for sale/swap. I also have a selection of the correct bottom yokes for an M80 (should be flat and made of cast steel). Tim

Dear all - in answer to your queries Swooshdave - Frame number is B 4901417 (ENG M 4901418) Big John. I do have a mould for making the side panel for the M49 with the cutaway for the shockabsorber mount and make them up for anyone who asks. That one in the photo is it and the finished side panels are products of it. The photos (tims bikes) on the sherpa t forum are various photos of some of my bultaco's. B40rt - To support my Bultaco habit I'm a builder and plumber. The stand is made of 15mm copper pipe from Wickes and the joints are all standard yorkshire fittings. I'd recommend 22mm as its a bit wobbly! Tim

Here are a few of my old m49 which now resides back in Spain

Yes, congratulations to Sammy. Apart form his immense talent he developed what to me is the most beautiful trials bike - the 'slimline' Bultaco Sherpa. I still own one, with a mk 1 Miller highboy frame to boot, to this day. Well deserved.

Be careful of identifying an M80 by the lugs to attach the slimline tank/seat unit' as the 'kit campeon' kit was available for upgrading M49s and many lugs were subsequently welded on. A better term for the transition from M49 to M80 would be 'merged'. There is a copy of the original 'kit' catalogue here http://www.todotrial.com/ttclasico/catalogos/kitcampeon.htm It is not unusual for M49 engine and frame numbers to be a few digits out. Both Sammy Miller and Don Morley refer to the Bultaco policy of taking the best engines for works and works supported machines and there were being knocked out of the factory as quickly as possible to supply the increasing demand. Tim

Hmmm. Interesting chemistry there. However, we are not alone in wondering about Ethanol and fiberglass Read this http://www.boatus.com/seaworthy/fueltest.asp

I regularly use an M85 Bultaco Alpina which has a fibreglass tank which I had noticed the fibre glass matting on the interior of the tank seemingly being etched into. I use both BP and Tescos unleaded with Castrol TTS and an octane booster. I contacted a specialist (to the racing trade) oils and additives supplier who was very helpful and confirmed that the additives in unleaded and especially in octane boosters would probably attack and degrade most commonly used fiberglass resins. Since then I have also lined the tank as the AJS rebuild with the Phenol Novolac Epoxy tank sealer available from Casewell UK and Casewell USA. There has been much discussion on this forum about this product and POR 15, another tank sealer. POR 15 is also resistant to modern additives including ethanol. POR 15 is not suitable for fibre glass tanks as even if it is properly prepared it will not bond to fiberglass resins. Unless there is another epoxy sealer other than Casewell I would, from experience, recommend only this be used. So far in both my Alpina and my slimline Sherpa tank (which I lined over 2 years ago) I have noticed niether etching or flaking and have had no fuel blockages. I would line any fiberglass tank, even a new one as the seams are particularly vaulnerable. Casewell recommend cleaning the tank with acetone but be warned - it will take the fuel resistant two pack an aerosol paint finish straight off! You can read about casewell here http://www.caswelleurope.co.uk/gastank.htm or POR 15 (for metal tanks) here http://www.frost.co.uk/ & search for fuel tank sealer The people here http://www.opieoils.co.uk/ were very helpful about oils etc. Tim

Hi The series 'a' model 91 (250) and the 92 (350) had the older type of frame with the single post and swept round sub frame under the seat as model 80. The series 'b' had the chrome moly frame, at this time still with a post under the seat but with side rails from under the tank to the lower rear frame. Model 124/125 had the same frame but the exhaust was changed frome chrome to matt black and the clubfoot spark arrestor replaced the triangular box. Side stand was also moved from frame to swing arm. Rear hub was also changed. I've never seen a model 133 Sherpa which I think was a cancelled model and the 134 was a prototype 350. UK models of this era were distinctive by the blue/silver Homerlite tank/seat unit. (UK law changed and fiberglass tanks for use on the road were banned). There is a picture of this sort of tank on the front of the Haynes manual. The post under the seat remained until the model 158/159 Historia de la Sherpa T will have all of the detailed changes, or, of course, Don Morley's Spanish Tials Bikes if you can find one under

Hi Greeves There is a good site at - http://www.simplywizard.co.uk/index.htm - which will help out with the James frames modifications and identification. The Uk FB club site is at http://www.francis-barnett.co.uk/ Some good examples of early James & FB photos at - http://www.classicbikes.pwp.blueyonder.co.uk/ - (click on enter then look under trials). There are 50s & 60s trials bikes as they were before all sorts of things sneaked into their forks etc! Look out for the photo of Bill Lomas (double 350cc world roadracing champ) riding a rigid James to the first national trial win on a two stroke machine. I am in the process of buying an interesting 1951 rigid James so I'll have some more info after Christmas. Felices fiestas y pr

Lots of good trials and clubs around Oxford or a short trip along the M40/A34 almost every weekend. North berks Club at http://www.northberksmcc.com/ have a club series and host a Novogar round and a Sammy Miller series round. Very active club and some very talented members. Good evening practice sessions at Seymours Arena in sumer. Oxford Ixion at http://www.freesitesatxdm.co.uk/oxfordixionmcc/ also have a good club series with one of the best locations at Lower Riding. Further afield are good clubs at Swindon, Wycombe, Hillingdon and Basingstoke. Not many rocks around Oxfordshire (except the concrete ones at Seymours Arena) but expect steep wooded slopes, streams and slippery sharp turns on logs and roots. Welcome to Oxfordshire!

If you go to any of the photo sites - ie snapfish or http://www.photobox.co.uk/ - you can download all your favourite photos or any from the internet (with permission) and have them made up in a Fantics only calendar! The ones I have made up are good quality though a bit pricy.