fedralseth666

vulcanising rubber from a puncture repair kit. try it, youll be amased! be sure to give it a good day or so to dry!

another acu blunder, got my licence and no rule book, or does that come later with sport moto?

how the hell did you do that? sproket/disc or something? from the op itll be about 6 months for the bone to 'consolidate' but itll be strong enough to do most things with after about 8 weeks if the bone heals well. i broke my leg riding motocross, i had a spiral fractred tibia and a clean break on my fibia. i was nailed, i was back at work after 6 weeks and i was walking on it without crutches after 8 weeks, just for short periods untill it ached, then id use crutches. as soon as the docs say to use it, use it! theres nothing worse than imobilising limbs to slow down healing!

are they renthal fat bars and clamps? i might be intrested, how much? please send me a pm. Tim.

humm, 8 microns movement over 10 inch of wheel(radial), im not sure but i think they wont last as long and you might feel slight play. id just get the same as what came out.

cold fouling plugs doesnt make sense. when an engine is cold it runs leaner due to the air charge in the cylinder, carb and air box is cooler and more dense. as the bike warms up, itll run richer as the opposite happens. do you run it on the choke for a long period of time? how regular do you use you bike? which premix oil do you use? possible causes imo could be: running it on the choke too long the premix has been sat in the tank for a long time and its separated, possibly the fuel in the carb has evaporated leaving the oil residue in the crab resulting in a greater oil ratio when you first start the bike. maybe the oil your running isnt very good, i used to use PJ1 goldfire and i fould plugs left right and center(on my cr 125), now i use MX7 and ive never had a problem in any of my mx bikes or my trials bike. another possibility is your running the wrong temp range of plug and the plug isnt coming up to temp quick enough. if all else fails, rejet the carb. Tim.

i met some of the Barnsley trial club at the quarry in penistone yesterday! they were really sound people! they gave me loads of advice about ridng and helped me alot! made the day alot more enjoyable.

Hi there, im pretty new to trials my self and ride in west yorkshire. my local practice places are: Penistone quarry near the ingbirchworth windmills, ive met a few people up there, all of which say they have never had any trouble riding there, its a really fun place to ride with loads of rocks and boulders which arent really big and scary! Hollywood near horbury bridge, its just an old quarry with some hills and a few rocks, good for practicing riding hils, like doing sharp turns on them and things, its also got some small rocks littered about, its keeps me entertained for a few hours with my limited skill. if i were a more confident rider there would be more sections to link up. only problem i find here is there usually kids hanging around with the usual, how much was your bike and does it do wheelies questions. California Quarry near goodalls carvans at crossland moor, its used for club trials by huddersfield falcons, its littered with rocks and hills to climb and play on, its got easy stuff and some big rocks for people who know what there doing, loads of choice and fun day out. theres Flapits, but i havnt been for a long time, last time i did it was on a motocross bike and it wasnt very good, too busy and just people flying around everywhere. all these spot are free and i havnt had any bother riding there so far. so long as you pull over to oneside if any walkers appear and dont go thrashing around people are usually sound. enjoy! if you know of any places to ride let me know, its good to have lots of placed to practice. if you need directions to any of the places ive mentioned pm me. Tim.

cheers for that advice, ill try bead blasting the plates when i have the clutch cover off next. i dont think im that hard on the clutch, i hardly ever slip it like i would on my mx bike as the trials bike doesnt seem to have any sort of power band or top end power which you need to slip the clutch to get to quickly. i guess time will tell. does the clutch stick because the oil between the plates is keying them together (like slip blocks) or is it more likely a nackered basket? cheers for all the help, Tim.

personally id go for anodised rims in yellow and black anodised hubs. it would look like Ricky Carmicheals suzuki wheels then, the yellow anodise isnt a sunbust yellow its a weird off yellow and looks great imo. i dont know if anyone has mentioned this place yet as im too lazy to read the whole thread but CandyWheels.co.uk are meant to be really good at this kinda stuff.

you wont get every drop of oil out of the gear box due to the internal shape of it. the best way to go about it is, drain it from both bolts like said above but lean the bike up to the left, let it drain for a while, then to the right and let it drain for a while and then stand it up vertical and let it drain for a while, repeat this a couple of time and then there will be as much oil out of the bike as possible. as i got my bike second hand, the lower drain plug is coroded and lost its shape (the hex head that is) and its welded its self in, so for now i have to put up with trying to drain the oil through the side bolt by holding the front forks with the bike on its side! anyone got any bright ideas for getting it out? im just hoping and praying it hasnt been stipped and glued back in!

I can see where your coming from with this and perhaps you are right. But surely Yamaha wouldn't put a level hole in the gearbox then expect you to ignore it but not tell you to ignore it? I am looking at my original owners manual and it states 600ml of SAE 10w30. It also says, "Fill with oil (600cm3) through [arrow to filler cap] and check oil level after operation." Unfortunatley, this doesn't help us much with our dilema concerning the level hole. However, how else can we check the level like they say? well unfortunatly were all in the dark here! i dont know why but every bike ive owned the level plug is always way too low for the amount of oil which is stated to be put in by the manual or the stamping on the casing. the only time i check the level plug is if i thought i might have a leak from a gasket after a rebuild or such. id just take the level plug out (with the bike up right not on the kick stand) and if oil runs out i put the level plug back in and leave it as i know it must have enough oil. i really dont know how they work out where the level plug whould go, or how much oil to put in the gear box, i know id go by the manual (or the number on the casing) and put that amount in the gear box, i guess its up to you just go by whichever your happiest with or ring your dealer and ask them for their take on the matter.

cheers guys, after my first outing on the bike i changed the gear box oil, i use the same motorex light gear oil (10/30w)as what i put into my 06 yz 125. the only difference ive noticed so far is that when cold the clutch sticks/drags. when i first start the bike i have to pump the clutch and then nock it into a gear, and hit the rear break to free it up! im told this is a common problem with trials bikes. if it were a motocross bike id change the clutch basket but people say its pretty common with trials bikes. ive tried to free the clutch without the engine running by pumping the clutch and rocking the bike in gear but it doesnt seem to work. have you got any sugestions? Ive been told to zip tie my clutch lever to bars while the bike is stood during the week to let the plates separate, is this a good idea? wouldnt it strain the springs and put excessive pressure on the hydraulic clutch? cheers, Tim.

theres a volume of oil cast into the clutch cover, and thats how much oil you should put into the gearbox. im pretty sure its 700 cm cubed which converts to 700 ml. the level bolt is only there as a check not a fill level, thats according to very well respected engine builder, Mr Terry Silvester (of silvesters yamaha, and his son Mark Silvester british twinshock mx champion!). he also told me that using the level bole and not filling the gear box properly results in burnt out clutches. too much oil makes the clutch slip. personally id prefer too much oil than too little, if the clutch slips you can always drop some oil, where as if you seize your gear box youll have to do an engine rebuild.

i have a thing for the old JTX gas gas bikes. and i really really like the new 07 scorpas with the very streight pointy rear mud guards.

ive just recently started trials on an 03 scorpa sy 250 which i got second hand from a farmer off ebay. id like to know the following: there is a dent and some small cracks from where the kick starter at some point has hit the engine side casing. it doesnt seem to leak, is it worth getting it welded next time the casing has to come off to do the clutch? looking at the bike i know the scilencer wont have been cleaned out, how do you clean scorpa scilencers/middle box? havnt they got ceramic plates in them or something? all the mx scilencers ive done have been a simple repack job but this one is welded shut. ive read the tech advice on here and it recomends burning the oil/carbon out but it also says that the high temperatures used to do this can melt aluminium. its suggests soaking it in strong chemicals, which chemicals? can someone shed some light on this? My gearbox worries me, its not like an mx bike, it doesnt seem to like to change gear on the roll, ill fully pull the clutch in and pull the lever up and instead of going from first to second easily sometimes itll go into neutral, then when its in second it might jump back into neutral. im sure it dropped out of third and into second the other day. if you select second gear you sometime get a clattering sound befor it drops into gear, its like you really have to exagerate your gear changes, unlike on an mx bike where its a little tap and its in. im not sure if its me changing gear wrongly or just not used to how far away the shifter is. i also got told to use the clutch every time i change gear where as on an mx bike you normally dip the revs and nock it up a gear. should i be worried or am i just a total noob! Many Thanks for any advice, Tim.

whs! get a syringe and a tube and bleed the break backwards, nipple to res. its works a hell of alot better and you can be 100% sure youve got all the air out as you know how much oil is left in the syringe instead of watching the nipple and the res and pressing the break pedal.

maybe im a tart, but i always wash my bike the best i can, wash all the thick mud off it and then get the muc off out and a brush and scrub any marks or stains off any matal components. with a second hand bike you wont get it like new unless the previous owner kept it really clean. ive only ever had one new bike and that was a yz 125, ive been racing and practicing on it since september and the frame and engine look like brand new. there no corrosion anywhere on any fasteners or white flake on ali parts. i even use an air box cover so i can wash the air box area out. when the time comes for a top end rebuild i know i dont have to worry about crud falling off bike parts and into an open engine. its may take 2 hours to mint my mx bike but it never misses a beat and is really easy to work on. my trials bike on the other hand is an 03 scorpa which clearly hasnt had the same treatment. rusty spokes, rusty bolt heads and many seized and stuck fasteners, most of which were in the brass inserts in the air box. this means first time ive taken the bike to bits its been a nightmare! ive had to grind heads off bolts, pull inserts out of the air box and removed the old nut, and then repair the air box, NIGHTMARE! if the last owner had only washed the bike, taken the mud guard off and greased the button head screws i wouldnt be messing around. but thats the secondhand world i guess. basically if you look after the bike, itll look after you and your pocket and your time.

Ive just bought my first trials bike (im a motocross/enduro ride normally) its a 2003 scorpa sy 250 and im going through it all periodically, so far i have done: cleaned the air box/filter changed the gearbox oil clean the throttle housing removed some of the sized bolts from the inserts in the air box im going to be stripping the carb to clean it and change the spark plug. anything else i should do? a few problems im having that i cant sort are, seized spoke nipples, how could i loosten them or should i get the wheel rebuilt? the sump plug is seized in/v. tight and the nut is rounded off, ive drained the oil from the side bolt below the gear shifter ( and held the bike by the front fork and on its side to get as much oil out as possible) is it ok to do it like this? will it get all the oil out or should i get the sump nut removed by a shop? i could do it but dont want the hassle. the rear break isnt very powerful, the front is vicious but the rear sucks, is there anything i could try to impove the power? many thanks, Tim.

Hi there, im Tim, im new to the trials scene, just bought an 03 scorpa sy 250 to play about on and practice bike handling for the motocross and enduro racing i do. any riding hints and tip would be great, and maintainence advice? i just took the air filter out (which looks to contain half or wales) and cleaned around the air box and in the air box. ive dropped the gear box oil and put some motorex light oil in there. im a bit stuck with the sump drain bolt as its seized in and had to drain the sump from the side under the gear shifter, is ok to drain the oil like this every time or should i get the sump bolt removed? im going to strip the carb sometime this week and clean it all along with changing the spark plug. is there anything else you would do? cheers for any advice?