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A toothbrush and K&N cleaning fluid (smells like proclean to me) and re-oiled with the K&N oil. I was a bit dubious as the oil seemed to bead on the surface of the filter even after I'd worked it in. It was a kit designed for cleaning car air filters though so not sure if the oil's a different consistency.

I'm pleased they're not designed to be single use filters, I was worried for a bit. Will try the PJ1 but hopefully i was just unlucky. It's a Mont 315 and seems it was purposefully designed to chuck mud at my airbox!!

Nice one cheers for that. Ordered a set, I figure for

I must admit the plates I got from Haven worked well for the first 2 months but now they're grabby again. I've heard the same thing about the CR250 plates being better and was going to ring Sandifords tomorrow to see what they reckon.

Hi, has anyone had any problems after reoiling one of the pre-oiled jitsie filters? My bike's not missed a beat since I got it, cleaned and re-oiled my jitsie filter and (after a fairly harsh and muddy trial I will admit) now I have a dirty carb. I'm going to try again with the PJ1 filter oil just wondered if anyone else had had success or otherwise with these things.

Good luck with that ring back! Not sure how old your house is but I had a random disconnecting problem and after a long time I traced it to the BT wires running to my house. Old steel core wires that had rusted and when they swayed in the wind / got wet they caused a light crackling on the line. Not enough to really notice on a call but enough to drop my connection when the weather got bad. Maybe worth a check if you keep getting that problem? Wouldn't help with the not showing certain websites I wouldn't have thought though.

Has anyone used any of the Raw Sports gear? Any good? Last well? Needing a new pair of trousers and its either the Jitsie JT1's or the Raw Sports ones for half the price.

Download Zonealarm firewall Free version and use that instead. Turn off Vista firewall by clicking - Start - Control Panel - Security - Windows Firewall Then just turn it off.

We use a commercial bostik adhesive (can't remember the code of the top of my head). The soles are roughed (on a wire brush wheel) and halog'd (again I have to check if halog is brand name or just what I know it as, it removes any residues from the rubber) and left for an hour. Then the adehesive is added to the boot and the sole and allowed to 'go off', takes about an hour again. The sole and the boot are then heated briefly in a flash heater to activate the glue before being put together in a pneumatic press. This process sticks soles through anything you can throw at them. Our boots are used around the world by bikers, military and ramblers. I often get boots come in to us where people have tried to use off the shelf glues to stick them back together and have come to the conclusion these simply don't work for any length of time. I'm not familiar with Redwing but maybe their footwear is not designed for quite such tough activities? You need to find yourself a military/walking/bike boot manufacturer ideally, they should have the kit and glue to put your sole on properly.

The problem is getting a replacement sole that's suitable. Most repairers are geared up for either traditional shoe soles or walking boot soles. Trials is somewhat a niche market. I would guess Hebo direct would be the only place to get one. If you can point me in the direction of a pic that shows the type of sole and how its attached I might be able to tell you more. I work for a company that does a lot of resoling of walking and military boots so if I can help I will.

I used to use Orange as a provider, appalling customer service and shoddy broad band. Nothing but problems and I can almost recite the script the dear indian fellows will repeat to you! Not their fault, they just aren't given any information or powers to sort the problems they encounter. If you value a consistent broadband with excellent UK based customer support I can't recommend IDNET.com highly enough. You pay more but its worth it in peace of mind if like me you rely on a fast net connection. You can also use a decent router and not that pathetic 'livebox' Orange give you. If your problem is outside of your control ie. on the exchange, and you have to call Orange I wish you luck. Just remember... calm calm calm When I left Orange it was because my max speed would not go above 2meg, after HOURS on the phone explaining again and again why it wasn't right I finally got the hump and moved to IDNET. Once connected had the same problem, rang IDNET and they rang me back 20 minutes later to say they'd spoken to BT and the speed restriction (placed by Orange although they consistently denied it was possible let alone that they did it) was lifted. Now that is customer service! Good luck getting it sorted!

Prices seem to be coming down all across the second hand market, good time to buy if you've got the cash! I would reckon on

The 9 - 40 combo makes a world of difference but I can see why a 41 or even a 42 might be better. I'll see how I get on at Oxnop on Sunday!

Saved the hassle of bending it and got an H&D one. Spot on!

Yep it was bent out of shape. Got a new one from Sandifords and it went on and sealed up nicely.

Sorry to add to the confusion but I think it's a TY250S. To know for sure have a search on this forum for the phone number for Yamaha, give them the frame number and they'll tell you for sure. Mixture is 50:1. EDIT: I have a manual for mine somewhere which I'll double check. EDIT EDIT: I remember having this nightmare trying to date mine. I should have called Yamaha or Birketts but I didn't.... It got so confusing with later and earlier bikes seeming to come with either plastic or metal tanks. Best explanation I found was that the S was a street version fitted with a larger capacity steel tank and R was the one intended for competition. I couldn't confirm this so no idea how true it is.

I'm having the same problem myself. I have the front pipe off and got a new crush washer, just about to go and try now so I'll let you know if I make any progress. Sick of it spitting black stuff over my shiny clean engine! EDIT: Right I'm going to leave it for now in case anyone has any great tips. If I marry up the front part then the connection to the mid box has one of the 'O' rings showing but if I seat it properly at the back first the exhaust is too low and left (looking from front of bike) to marry up to the cylinder head. The exhaust has taken a few knocks in its time, could it be that its bent out of shape a little?

Yep tank off, fuel tap in off position and it will be fine. Be very careful with the throttle cable routing when replacing the tank. Check to make sure its operating ok before you start the bike. Won't cause any problems if you get it wrong, just rev its tits off while you desperately search for the kill button!

Ah! Now I just foolishly assumed that was how it was. Any tips on how to get it put back into shape? I'm guessing somewhere with something hydraulic? Don't think my hammer will help! Or maybe I need a bigger hammer? The long bolts idea is a good one in the meantime!

Checked mine tonight and I've inherited it with 10 - 40. I think I'll drop the front to a 9 and the change the rear if I think I need it. Just trying to save a bit of cash! Thanks for the input!

I've got to the point where I dread having to take the bashplate off my 315. Last time to get it back on I used a combination of a jack and mole grips and even then it was a nightmare! I've tried a ratchet strap too but didn't really help. Anyone got any tips?

Can anyone tell me the standard sprocket sizes for a 315? I'd also be interested to know what combinations people ride with. I'm thinking my 1st gear isn't low enough for the slower stuff. I based near Richmond, North Yorkshire so lots of wet grass, mud and rocks rocks and more rocks!

The only real difference from the '99 is the front shocks changed from Paioli to Showa in 2000.

I replaced all my guards with carbon fibre ones and they've worked fine so far. My mate has them on his scorpa too and they've taken a battering with out breaking!

That's something I want to know too! Mine is currently as suggested by the Lewisport website. I was on a mono TY previously so not to sure about setting 'modern' suspensions.