tt5th

Let me guess... you removed your baffles? Just joking but I have to agree with the meister guy, it's a point worth making in this type of thread as it really has a bearing on the tolerance of people to let us use their land to practice/compete. Whether you like it or not 4 stroke noise carries further than 2 stroke so you really shouldn't be making it louder. To ignore this is selfish and doesn't support trials as a whole. Just my opinion.

Anything that improves the visibility of trials as a sport would be a good thing! I'm sure Dougie Lampkin is the most unknown british world champion ever! And how many times will I hear "bring back KickStart!"? That program is singularly the reason I fell in love with bikes! I can't see it happening though as the olympics is simply not about engines. Trials is by definition a motorsport I'm afraid.

Has anyone had any experience with these? I put one on mine and it runs lovely but sounds like a crosser to the point that a couple of people commented on how loud it was at the last trial I was at! One even asked if it had any baffle packing in it! I checked and yes it has, it's only a few months old and packed from the factory with rockwool. Any tips on quieting it down? I don't want to give trials a bad name

They don't have to be skin tight unless you prefer them that way Jitsie, Clice, Hebo and Raw Sports all do baggier ones (ie. not lycra) For size I would check with the individual brand, one thing does seem to be the legs are short in order not to have a load of bulk to stuff in your boots. Doesn't look right if you wear anything other than trials boots though. I've just changed from wearing combat pants to a pair, not sure how they last but definately more comfortable and the padding is in all the right places (I have the Raw ones and they even have a pad to protect my wotsit, or make it look bigger, not sure yet!!). If you can find the Raw ones on ebay mine were delivered for

After a fun day out my clutch was spot on all day, tiny bit of drag when cold so new steel plates seem to work. To find neutral I find it easier to select 2nd and tap it down just a smidge.

You can get Elf 740 from BVM Moto.

Thats the way I'd do it but be warned I went to the 'Hackit and Bodgem' school of mechanics! I'd be as careful as possible not to damage the clutch basket itself using as smaller drill bit as I could to get the job done and then make sure even after cleaning it before reassembly to do maybe 2 quick oil changes to ensure any filings are out.

I agree that it'll burn that fan out eventually but if you really need to, just connect the wires that went to the temp sensor together.

Washed my road bike tonight, went to start it to put it away and nothing, kept turning but not catching. Spent 20 minutes or so checking plugs, HT leads, fuel, carbs etc only to realise i'd left the exhaust bung in DUH! Sure we've all done it once!

How about a restriction in the fuel running to the carb? Kinked fuel line or blockage in the tank tap?

The elf oil you can get from BVM 01453 762743 Steel plates from BVM (about

Sorted! Had to remove the side cover to get to it but all good. And after a bit of research 7Nm or 8Nm is recommended and no leaks so far. I'm such a ham handed monkey I swear, you got it, I'll over tighten it! (or round it off, snap it etc....!!) I'll ignore the rattling! Fingers crossed that's a working clutch for me....

Clean the carb again? Air filter obviously but I'm sure you've done that. It sure sounds like a blockage in your pilot jet. If you have good spark, good air, good fuel then could the timing have slipped? I've heard of woodruff keys shearing allowing this to happen but to be honest I have no idea what one is or even if a TY has one!

Ah ha! Nice, I understand now. Thanks!

Is Kev Hipwell not the Over 40 winner and Mark Doughty the clubman winner? Could be me being stupid of course! Are those two classes counted together or something? Cheers to all involved for putting on a quality event, really enjoyed watching and even managed to get sunburn! Result!

For the price of the plates I got new steel Apico ones from BVM and the ELF oil. Works a treat so far, will see how it performs over a period of time now. I only got the steel plates as I replaced the friction plates with the haven trialsport ones only a few months ago and these look in A1 condition. The only change was it sounds more rattly now with the clutch in, I checked and I had put everything back correctly so I put it down to the thinner oil. One hiccup was shearing one of the clutch cover bolts - I was using 12Nm which I thought would be ok but obviously not. Any ideas on the correct torque settings?

Or a saddlers, anyone with a long arm stitcher. Get them to put a patch on, glues will only work for a small amount of time.

Well the castrol didn't work, next will be roughing the plates. If that doesn't work I'll get in touch with BVM for plates and Elf oil.

Nice information, thanks for that!

Air filter oil is sticky. I use it because in my mind if its stickier it will trap more dust. However I've used engine oil and 2 stroke oil with no appreciable (to me) difference in performance or crud picked up.

300ml I was told and its worked fine for me. They're the same forks as 315's of the same period.

You haven't geared it up for the trail riding have you? That would make the chain seem shorter.

A mate of mine has a twinshock Golner TLR200 bought from Bob himself. There isn't a trial goes by where he isn't offered a good price for it!

A standard engine oil should do the trick in the meantime. 10w-40 something like that?

Just been speaking to sandifords and the guy there reckoned first to try different oil, I currently use the PJ1 but they recommended trying Castrol SLX 0-30w so I'll give that go. Reckons they've been using it in their 4RT's and they rate it. Second he suggested roughing up the steel plates in my clutch with a fine emery paper in case they had coating on. And finally they use the CR250 steel plates at roughly