tt5th

http://www.sandiford.co.uk/ I'd give them a try, they should be able to help or point you in the right direction.

In my experience.... Wax creates a top layer of protection on the leather as well as maintaining the suppleness of the leather. If you don't wax eventually the leather will dry out and crack. I could liken this top level of protection to that of 'proofing' a waterproof jacket, it causes the water to run off before it even gets to the material. If you keep a boot well waxed even when the waterproof membrane goes - which it will - the boot will still remain water proof. Wax shouldn't be confused with dubbing which in my experience makes leather too soft, good for an italian loafers not good for a boot thats supposed to be supporting and protecting you. Also I've seen over application of dubbing cause seperation of the fibres in the leather which can also cause cracking. A good wax I've used is Grangers G-Wax which is available from most walking shops. The rotting stitching idea comes from when most boots were made using cotton threads which do indeed rot, these days mostly man made threads are used, such as nylon, due to their better strength and water repellent abilities. These don't rot with dubbing or wax.

or I think I might have a TY front wheel around somewhere. If I can find it you can make me an offer for it.

Wax them and make sure you work it into all the stitching, especially that holding the sole on.

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If you haven't changed the oil change it. After that I'd take the clutch cover off and take out the plates, check the condition, give them a bit of a clean if ncessary or order new ones if they're beyond repair.

Pressure washer isn't so bad, although a hosepipe and brush would probably be better. Once clean, towel dry, leave for a few mins and then wax while the leather is still slightly wet, then put the boots away somewhere room temperature.

I work for a bootmaker, we resole all kinds of boots but the veldt stitched construction of the gaernes isn't something we can do and I don't know of anyone who can in this country. Italy maybe! The stitching machines are quite specialist and if the leather is damaged it would need stripping, repairing and then re-lasting. My gaernes have lasted me 2 years and are still going strong. The only tip I could give to anyone is when waxing the boots to make sure you get loads of wax on the stitching that holds the sole on. This stops it drying out which in turn leads to the stitching fraying. Sorry I can't be of more help.

The haven friction plates definately made a difference but the Apico steel plates seemed to make more of a difference. Combination of those with PJ1 oil and I get a tiny bit of binding at the start of the day and after that its good to go everytime.

Wow! That looks brilliant and ridiculous all at once! I hope they include a trials bike......

You need something to hold the damper assembly inside the fork to stop it rotating as you do it up. You can buy/make a tool to do this - welding an appropriate size bolt onto a rod for example. But you could try a broom handle, it's worked before!

Deep end!! Just use it as a practice, remember you don't have to attempt all sections if you're not confident. Just have a ride round and try the ones you like the look of. In a section; No feet down - 0 marks (clean) 1 foot down (known as a dab) - 1 mark 2 dabs - 2 marks 3 dabs (or as many as you like to get you out of the end of the section) - 3 marks Stop, come off your bike, don't wait for the observer to wave you in, miss a gate, don't make it out of the end of the section - 5 marks. To start with the key thing is just to get the bike out of the end of the section! Even if that involves 'walking' out with it! (when I say walking I mean still on the bike just using your feet to help you along) That way you only get a 3 instead of abandoning your run and getting a 5. Least marks wins! Good luck!

Fake bids are definately the scourge of ebay. I have seen so much crap get relisted after their mates obviously over bidded it. I try to get the auction ended early for a price I'm happy with or I make sure I know my max price and if it goes silly then just walk away. Still think ebay is a good tool to have in the box as long as you're aware of the pitfalls.

What he said! Fuel line will be obstructed. I wouldn't worry about flooding it, I don't think i've ever turned my petrol off!

Sounds a bit steep to me. Check the play in the swinging arm, the standard bearings have a habit of rusting away. I can't think of anything else other than general motorbike things - non rattly engine, good fork stanchions etc.. The good thing is most parts are comparatively cheap. Sandifords keep about one of everything in stock so are usually next day, H&D Racing do some cool parts and kits.

None that I am aware of unless the 'R' is what they termed the '01 onwards models with the different front forks and carb......

What bikes it on? If its an older one you could get away with it i guess but if its a newer Nikosil coated then no, won't work. To put it in perspective a rebore and piston will cost you in the region of

This will be a crazy machine, i'm looking froward to it!

Scorpa 4 stroke 125, great little thing to throw about! My mate had one and he was competitive with it too. Lovely thing!

If it's been turned already I'd just get a new one. That way you're starting from scratch and will be able to gauge how long it takes before you start feeling the grip go - given your style, terrain you ride and technique - and you will feel it go. I'm not a particularly good rider so I change my tyre reasonably often as it gives me a boost in my performance having a newer tyre - but I see guys way better than me, doing better the me, riding on tyres that I wouldn't dare compete on! Think I might take note of what Tombo said and start practicing finding grip on well worn tyres! For tyre pressures I'm 15 stone and never put more than 4psi in the rear and usually 6 in the front. It does depend on how 'broken in' the tyre is though, with a new IRC i was able to run 2psi with no problems then just upped the pressure to 4 as it wore in.

Nipples are no problem as i have a full set of new ones but it is looking like i'm going to have to take out a few more than i wanted too!

Oh i got it out! Angle grinder sorted that for me, just can't get the new one in.

Does anyone know anything about respoking a 'z' spoke rear wheel from a 250 mono? I have some spokes but it seems you can't replace individual spokes due to the 'z' bit. Do I have to remove all the spokes to replace one? Or is there a special technique? Any help appreciated! John.

I think for the price of air freighting them there and back you could probably buy a couple of bikes out there and leave them at his parents!

Either that gasket or the main one that sits between the two halves. Should be cheap enough from Sandifords.