250tlr

Hi Mick Regards to your spacer, it very much sounds like it could be the front wheel spindle spacer.... The back wheel issue could be new incorrect shoes fitted or the originals not fitted correctly.... what else have you done there, replaced wheel bearings? As for up loading pictures you need to get an account opened on a seperate site, I use photobucket.com, for what you need just to get photo's on here and hold few hundred pictures is free. Cheers Simon

The link below is your man talking about the above in the third paragraph http://www.classicdirtbike.co.uk/editorsintro.htm S.

Ah yes this is a German Army reconnaissance bike...... only one ever built...... was commissioned with Steve McQueen in mind to make sure this bike would clear the fence...... Sorry no idea........ but sounds like a personal decorative change by someone with military back ground, possible hunter, etc

Assure you that is a 250.... The tank, the wheel hubs, and the engine is all 250...... Bet the seller couldn't believe his luck...

Blimey........ The 250 I said about above sold on ebay and went for

BRAVO.............. BRAVO........... "Honda Pants" my fellow comrade...... Good to see we all still have a sense of humour

Hi There... The prices of 250's can be from

Above refers to www.inmotiontrials.com, they do sell a replica RTL mudguard and DEP exhaust I purchased one of these mudguards for a TLR 200 they look good for the bike and fit/work really well, the only down side is the moulding/plastic is quite thin where it has been pressed for the bolt fixing point to the frame this one did start to crack in this area, I reinforced it which is simple to do and will hopefully prolong its life

The bloke you refer to is that the professional full time speedway rider......well thats what he tells the ladys, but the smell of fibre glass resin I think would give his real job away..... did you know he also has a phd in engineering his experience of engineering comes from working at British rail getting others to manufacture things for him, god helps us.... look at what happened to BR.... He's a real "think he knows it all".... Known as a steptoe of Honda parts that believes he can charge the crown jewels for... I've seen the same things happen with his listings too....... I remember the

Sorry I agree with Honda_tlr......... What aload of nonsense the quote "much wider choice of tyres, and bikes seem to grip a little better" The only differents between the two types of tyres is the bead....... the compound of the tyre remains the same to give the same level of grip using either in any combination..... I have successfully had no issues with fitting a Tubeless tyres onto a spoked rim using an inner tube..... the tyre sits on a rim fine and found no problem with the bead lockers or grip I really can't see the advantage of using a tubeless rims on twin shock bikes...... personal choice I know.... Simon

Hi Bob, If it's the TLR250F 1984ish........... Part No's are..... Rear spokes.... 426A0-KR9-000, Qty of 18, sprocket side connecting to rim 426B0-KR9-000, Qty of 18, drum side connecting to rim There are no part listings for nippels, the size nipples to order depends on your rim hole I replaced all my spokes with stainless steel ones, I sent the old spokes of to be used as templates and had them made by www.central-wheel.co.uk which cost

Hi Sid & all.... What happened in the end using the new oil level measurment of 118mm instead of the Reflex 145mm did it make any differences. The reason I ask is the symptoms that you described seem the same as the 200 TLR I've just got, the re-bound and damping is absolutely crap, the only way I've been able improve it was to charge the fork with a little bit of air via the valves, but doing this has made one of the forks weep oil from the seal (both forks have new seals and the fork chrome is like new) .....Does anyone know of any TIPS to improve the re-bound & damping action on a 200...? Would using spacers under the caps/spring help ($2 coins here are the exact size for doing this), how much of a differences would this really make..? Higher/Lower fork fluid levels...? Stretch the springs...? I also have a 250 TLR, I know the front forks are different to the 200 but the suspension on that is brilliant standard front forks and Falcon rear shocks, combined they are really positive in the way you can push your weight down onto the foot pegs and she will drop down and then will immediately rise straight back up in such a dampened controlled way, anybody with a 250 will know what I mean hopefully.... Just wish the 200 could be the same... Cheers Simon

Hi.... If it helps I would look at the basics of Physic's By what you are describing comes across it could be a small crack in the head or a head gasket fault, has the head been torque down correctly, has the head been checked is it warped, does it and the barrel need skimming? My reason behind this is simple metal expands when hot thus minimizing the chances of a leak from a crack this will also helps tighten the fit between the head and barrel compressing the head gasket, could be enough to stop any tiny bit of oil getting through. (I not saying there's a major failure of the gasket otherwise you would have other issue with compression, running etc) When the engine /metal cools it will then retracts and then possibly that's when your leak occurs I would pressurise the engine dry at TDC and both valves closed cylinder and see if you get any drop in pressure and then recommend you get it compression tested dry and wet. Cheers Simon Keep us updated be interesting to know the final outcome!!!! .........As I was writing this I see the previous post was added saying the same about the cold thing.... think its the way go and investigate........... possbily cracked valve guide ? I rekcon the Exhaust valve guide if any..

Hi all.. Thanks for the help and advice everyone..... I've checked the float for pin holes and holding fuel and it was ok....... (Cheers Chris) I think I have resolved what had made it so rich, the little tag on the float that makes contact and closes the float valve didn't completely sit right on the valve (had an angle of 45 degrees on it and didn't sit square onto the valve... if you no what I mean!), So I assume the fuel was not completely being shut off when the float had reached it's height....thus giving me my problems.... I bent the tag at more of an L-shape angle, re-adjusted the float level and now it runs 80% better...... still think it might need a bit more attention sometime, but for now it will tick over fine and doesn't smoke so that will do me..... Case Closed....... Cheers Simon

Hi all.... I'm looking for some help and advice please........ I have a TLR200 which emits black smoke and runs with a black sooty spark plug all signs points to a rich fuel mixture, runs ok but idles up and down and will stall in time, also when its hot it can be a bitch to start again... To start from cold you will never need to choke it, the lever stays down all the time.. tank of fuel last ten minutes... only joking!!!! I have done the following but it still runs rich anybody had the same problem and cured it... Checked air intake and put on a new air filter Checked needle and setting ok (on Notch two) Adjusted mixture screw, (screwed right in, then out 1 1/2 turns) Adjusted float height holding carb completely up side down, adjusted to 24mm from top of float to base of carb Checked jet sizes... correct - Main jet #98 and slow jet #40 Cleaned and blow out with compressed air all jets and air ways Bloody thing is driving me mad......... What is the mixture screws adjustment on these OUT to weaken and IN to richen ??? ............is there anything I have over looked or missed that could help ?? Cheers Simon