I have had the bike for a couple of years but have no idea how old the friction plates are and am not sure what a "bad" friction plate looks like. What is the wrong oil? I have been using Dextron ATF but I think it is now called DEX/ MERC
Clutch spring lengths are within 0.25 mm. I'll have to inspect plate movement when I get it back together.
The basket has been filed but I'm planning to try cleaning up the fingers on a mill to ensure straightness.
The cam face can be refinished by welding and machining. The cam end of the pushrod may need to be refinished too. It's meant to be hemispherical.
I've seen NOS cams advertised on eBay.
Yamaha and EBC and Goodridge are good. Haven't tried Vesrah.
Yes milling the grooves is a warping risk but some people do it.
I would think you can buy new steel plates from Yamaha if you think there's a problem. I use wet-and-dry paper on mine. I'm still using the original steel plates after four rebores and two new conrod kits.
The sticking got so bad the bike would occasionally pull a wheelie when starting with clutch in.....even with a warm engine. I pulled it apart but nothing looks that bad. There is a little mark on the clutch actuator but I can barely feel it with a fingernail. I may be able to polish it out. Plates are not warped and specs in manual are met...if I can read the decimals in the manual copy properly. Steel plates had some minor corrosion in the past but had been sanded. Should that matter? The only odd thing was that I could not push the actuating rod out with a wire so resorted to 100 psi air. It looks a little dirty. Ball was in place.
Are you talking about sticking when cold after the bike has sat for a while? That is common in many trials bikes. I have learned to live with it on some bikes. Start bike, pull in clutch and give bike a little roll forward while putting in gear. Ride bike forward with clutch in and blip throttle. It will break loose in 10 feet or so and not stick again until next cold start after sitting....if it is just a cold start issue.
Height is a problem. I'm 5'5" and the the top of the beta kicker is near hip height. It is difficult to get any weight above the kicker and I would assume really bad if you have a knee issue. I find Rev3 and Evo take about the same kick effort. The 4t kicks over very easily. At some point, I heard that Beta started putting a groove in the bore of the 300s to make them easier to kick. I did get a ride on a 300 super smooth and it was surprisingly easy to kick. I think it was a 2018...aluminium colored frame I think.
For a period of about two years a few years ago I had very severe reactive arthritis which is a normal and lingering after-effect of Ross River Virus. It mainly affected my fingers, wrists and elbows. It meant I couldn't hold on well. Through that period, I avoided any sort of heavy loading on the front end. To help with comfort in smaller stuff, I backed off the fork spring preload slightly and ran lighter fork oil and experimented with handlebar position all of which made the bikes easier to hold onto. All my trials bikes are twinshock era which I find are generally easier on the arms and hands than modern bikes. I also found that my heavier twinshocks were easier to hold onto and rode smoother than the lighter ones.
Do you think the old damping rod forks may be easier on hands...up until the speed they spike. See the graph 1/2 way down the page in this link comparing damping rods with cartridge forks.
IIRC, there is a hole in the frame that takes a grommet similar to a grommet that protects wires going though sheet metal. That post on top slips up into the grommet. See item 12. I had a 14 model that did not line up well, was hard to get into place and tended to break the grommet over time so I can see why someone would use tie wraps. After a few replacements the grommet stopped breaking on me. Bolts go into rubber bottom mounts,
I have arthritis in both thumbs. The trapezium bone has been removed in one hand and pending in the other. Some knuckles are not in great shape either. Both hands and wrists are getting quite sore from riding and stay that way afterward. I would think modern suspension would be better but my Beta 4t is harder on my hands than my TY175. On the beta I'm constantly on the clutch and front brake plus ride bigger obstacles. (I did put thinner oil in the forks.) On the TY I'm mostly on throttle only and suspect the skinny forks flex around to help cushion things. I do try to minimize hand pressure when riding. I have thought of an electric bike because you don't need to use the clutch but I'm not sure if the clutch is really part of the problem.
Has anyone found any tricks, accessories or mods to make trials easier on their hands? Are some bikes easier on hands? This question is from the perspective of being able to ride not from the perspective of being able to ride well.
Are there any documented gate trial rules? Are there variations? I have seen one type where the first footing means the rider has failed the section. This seems a bit harsh and would encourage very conservative riding.
I still need to pull it apart but have never looked at the cam. It looks like they are unavailable. Can they be refinished?
Do you have any experience with different brands of friction plates? Yamaha, EBC and Vesrah are available in addition to non branded probably Chinese ones.
Do you have any idea what kind of grooves can be put in the metal plates? Are there any pictures out there? It seems like they would encourage warping. IIRC, the OEM plates are dimpled.
As purchased, my TY175 clutch worked OK but had a some drag and was abrupt compared to a modern bike when released even with a lever arm extension. At some point in time there was a lot more drag and it became more abrupt. It would even stick when riding such that when you pull in the clutch and there was a delay before disengagement even when hot. I sanded the steel plates but I forgot which roughness of paper used. I filed the clutch baskets mostly flat but not totally flat. I also removed some burrs found on the ears of the fiber plates. All plates looked flat. It was improved and maybe similar to when I purchased the bike but after a small number of rides is back at its worst. Could this be the steel plates getting polished up again? I have a glass bead blaster. Could that be better? Any suggestions?
On the 2016 there is a connector right in front of the rear wheel. The first time I took it apart I found green connector pins and I live in a mostly dry climate.
On my 2016, there is a connector under the fender near the air box that connects the electronic petcock and the fan. If you are doing anything in that area it is easy to disturb that connector. It can look connected but is not. I have to be very careful to push it together firmly. I have had the petcock and fan not work in the past due to this situation.
It probably matters what level you would ride. The type of terrain makes a difference also. I have a couple of modern bikes and vintage bikes. At 66, I can ride more challenging things on a modern bike but a TY175 is the easiest on my body. It is almost as light as a modern bike, kicks and starts easily. It also has a seat. Due to the power delivery, everything happens slower which is easier on brain and body. It is mostly clutch out riding so easier on your hands because you are not constantly working the clutch. The one exception is riding in rocks. With 4 inches of rear suspension travel and 45 year old forks, you feel like a ball in a pinball machine when riding across a field of rocks or up a rocky creek bed. I have not needed much but parts seem readily available.
That said, an 80 year old bud got an Electric Motion this year and loves it.
A friend had a big end con rod failure on a 125 beta probably due to water getting in. When running it made a nasty grinding sound. When I pulled the cylinder I could feel up and down free movement of the rod.
Were you missing any small parts like a bolt or screw when you reinstalled the carb? The fact that something like this occurred right after having the carb off suggests that something could have gotten into the intake port when the carb was removed.
Some bikes have the engine size cast into the barrel. I think Sherco did that. The 2.9 was 270 or maybe 272. I have seen some Gas Gas cylinders with a 28 cast in. Is that 280 cc?
You also have to consider fit or shape. I bought a pair of alpinstars but they were too narrow for my feet. I have had several pairs of Gaerne and they fit a wide foot. I now have Forma that fit like Gaerne but are a bit stiffer so I feel better protected. They are also a bit taller. The soles are more durable.
I had a pair of these MS boots. They were very similar to trials boots but did have a little heel. Dual Sport/ Adventure boots have a full tread unlike MX boots that are designed to slide forward, This makes a difference when walking sections. I don't think they are made any more and went quite cheap on close outs.
I had that issue with a 2016 Beta 4t. On that bike the spring would hit the end of a bolt when the stand was at full extension to make it self retract. A shorter bolt eliminated the self retract feature. I bought the bike used so am not sure if the long bolt was OEM or not.
I'm saying that I believe ABCD models DT100, 125, 175 covers are all the same part. They changed the cover design with the E model. If you want to check that out for yourself you can look up their part numbers.
I just did a search on these forums on this topic and from that, it seems you can use a TY175 kickstart shaft with a DT cover, but need to make a spacer for the shaft to stop it floating towards the right, so that sounds like both shafts are the same length overall but have the shoulder that bears against the casing in different locations.
I have a DT175A motor that I can compare the kickstart shaft and cover from with TY175 parts if you want.
TY175 Clutch
in Yamaha
Posted
I have had the bike for a couple of years but have no idea how old the friction plates are and am not sure what a "bad" friction plate looks like. What is the wrong oil? I have been using Dextron ATF but I think it is now called DEX/ MERC
Clutch spring lengths are within 0.25 mm. I'll have to inspect plate movement when I get it back together.
The basket has been filed but I'm planning to try cleaning up the fingers on a mill to ensure straightness.
Friction Plate - https://ibb.co/fv3qJzk
Hub - https://ibb.co/yhJrbdd