waltergallons

Anyone know.... ?????? Can you get a trials bike in the back of a 61 plate Vauxhall Combo van.....????? If so, do have to put it at an angle or turn the bars........ ????? Thanks in advance.

I wanted a wider footrest on my Sherpa, so I fitted Pursang footrests from BultacoUK..... exactly the same design.... they just stick out further.

I know it's not the same bike, but I have a 240..... Advice from Bill Pye on this is to run it dry.

I took off my engine ignition side cover recently and was horrified to find what was inside. It was as I imagined the engine room of the Titanic would look like. Wet, damp, and lots of white fury corrosion on the aluminium. I took the flywheel off, stripped down the stator plate and cleaned everything up as best I could. The last time I sealed that cover up several months ago, I didn't use a proper gasket, but used silicone. I realised that there's a possibility that water might get in where the ignition wires come out of the back of the engine, so I plopped a load of silicone around there as well. Most of the trials I've done over the lat few months have been very wet, and I generally power wash after each event. My question is..... How does everyone else seal up their ignition side?... Do you use the gasket or silicone or both?.....And how often do you open the cover up to have a peep inside? Thanks.......

I meant the swingarm pivot protective slipper pad 450-09-00-5250....... I've e-mailed Lee and made a purchase........ Thanks !!!

Thanks for the reply Lee, but it was a Fantic 240 'swinging arm - chain slipper pad' I'm after..... not ... the whole bike !

Does anybody know where I can get a new one ?..... I know that there was one on e-bay recently, but that disappeared prior to auction finish.

Lee Dave Renham - 'INMOTION' Egham Surrey UK- 01784440033 -relined my 240 hubs. From memory I think that it cost about

Spud * Are you using an additional extension bracket (engine end of the clutch cable) which is needed if you have an lengthened clutch arm ? If you haven't and you've put new clutch plates in, I don't believe the cable will be long enough....but was probably ok for your old worn plates. * Don't know why there are holes in the clutch plates. * One tip that I can give you is that when you use the central clutch adjuster slotted scrw & nut, DON'T overtighten the nut. The screw is very hard / brittle and will shear off. The nut only needs to be 'nipped up', otherwise you'll break the screw like me. Walter

Hello Spud I believe that one of those 240's that you tried out at the Double 5 trial was mine. We've spoken briefly before. I live in the same town as you. My sister lives just down the road from you. Just wondering how much your clutch arm has been lengthened by. Perhaps it was ok for worn plates but not for new chunkier ones. My clutch plates are new. The clutch arm has been extended by Bill Pye, and he also supplied me with the corresponding bracket that bolts to the engine that the clutch cable end sits in. I've got the measurements if you want to compare, or alternatively you can come and have a look at the bike as we live so close. On the subject of the brakes, I had both my hubs relined by Dave Renham. Can't remember how much exactly it cost me, but I think it was about

I've tried tinkering around again with it bearing in mind your suggestions, but still can't sort it. It's going back to the shop to get sorted next week. Won't get it back until a week next Thursday. I'll post what the diagnosis is then. Thanks for the responses.

Hello..... I've just aquired a 2007 Sherco 125 for my son the other day. When I got it there was no clutch, in that when the bike was running and you put it in gear, the bike would surge forward even with the clutch lever pulled in. I drained the oil, and stripped the clutch down and noted that all the plates were stuck together and had to be prised apart from each other. Gave the plates a clean in petrol, coated them in fresh gear oil and put the clutch back together. I've put 450ml of fresh IPONE Box2 Synthesis oil back into the engine (as recommended by dealer). I ran the engine for about 15 minutes, and noted that initially the clutch was dragging almost as bad as before. I then put the bike up on the paddock stand with the back wheel up, and ran the bike in 4th gear. Clutched it and applied the back brake a few times then noted the drag had reduced. Of note is that the plates looked in good condition. The clutch basket slots didn't have any nasty ruts or grooves in them, although some weren't perfectly straight, maybe best described as having a gentle ripple where the plates had been rubbing against them. However, I can't stop the drag completely and the bike will creep forward even with me sat on it. Do you think the drag will diminish if the bike was taken out and ridden for a while ? The trouble being that where I live there's no scope for that unless we go to a trial. Thank you

Thanks everyone..... I'll try adding a touch more oil to the forks and see where that takes me ..... Big John, I'm only a light weight (11 stone..ish)..... How do you tell if the springs are coil bound ?..... By this do you mean knackered ? Thanks again !

Hello everyone .... I've rebuilt my Fantic 240 recently, including stripping down the forks and rechroming the forklegs...... I've noticed on the few times I've ridden it that the forks bottom out quite easily........ The oil I've got in the forks at the moment is 'Putoline HPX10 synthetic'....... I was advised to put longer spacers in the top of the forks...... The ones in there originally were about 1" and I'm led to believe that they are original Fantic (but I'm not sure)....... I had 2" spacers made up and replaced the originals but it's still bottoming out..... The other thing that I was advised to do was to put heavier fork oil in, but I haven't done this yet........ Any suggestions from anyone about what type and quantity of oil I should use, or any other ideas that may cure this problem ......... Thanks.