I have to disagree, I'm running a Renthal R1 with a V-mar guard fitted with no problems. It did "bed" in a little but there was enough tolerance in the bolt holes to stop it fouling the chain.
Here's my TY. It had only done 300 odd miles when I got it and was completely standard. I did intend to ride it so I ended up de lugging the frame, fitting Hebo Pegs, porting it, shortened the inlet manifold, (still have the original barrel though) lightened the flywheel and completely new plastics etc. I would have probably been worth more bog standard but that wasn't the point of buying the bike.
I drilled mine and used an easy out ( trade name ez out, various makes available) to extract the bolts, I then replaced them with titanium bolts. I can't remember the length but pretty sure they're 8mm x 1.25 pitch.
You sometimes see them on ebay although they're more expensive than they were or try here
I get an error message when I try to run the .EXE file....
Eddy_full.a10 : Cannot find file
I had this problem until I looked in the folder and found a new file had been created by the exe file, this came up as "Eddy Lejeune trialsschool.wmv" This new file contains all the divided files to show the complete movie. I hope this makes sense, but as I'm a computer biff myself it's the only explanation I can give.
Cheers Ludde, the full video shows how ahead of his time Eddy was, hopping the back round and 180 air turns are impressive. I notice he uses all 4 fingers on the front brake to get the back end up, thanks god for the mechanical advantage that Hydraulic systems give.
Thanks Ludde, certainly brings back memories of watching it in front of the fire at home, as a kid in complete awe.
I've got agree with Kinell though, god how things have moved on! If the steps were in a local club trial at expert level nobody would be expecting to fail them let alone lose marks.
Still, that was over 25 years ago and this is now, so no comparison can be made as such.
I'd love to see more if you've got the time to post it.
You'll have no problems at 80:1, which is 62.5 ml to 5 litres of fuel. Try and get the best fuel you can, I used to run optimax (v power now) which seemed to help with reducing pinking.
I had this tape when i was a lad, i remember being amazed at the things he was pulling off. I seem to remember him riding up a concrete step in a stream bed, awesome at the time!
I think it was earlier than 82 but only a by a couple of years. Must go in the loft when I go home again and dig out those betamax tapes!
I run mine on good quality synthetic oil at 70:1 without any problems.
I run 7 psi in the front and 4-5 psi in the back. If you're riding on the road you'll need to increase these.
Unfortunately you won't be able to get the tank back to a pure white, it's the petrol/oil mix which has discolours it from the inside out. I've had good results though with cif, hot water and wet and dry. I've tried almost everything else including the dishwasher but this gets the best results.Don't bother painting it either as the tank breathes petrol vapour, and will remove paint in weeks.
What if a child suddenly ran across the road infront of you and you hit them?
Good
Are you for ******* real Essex rider! Whether said in jest or not, this type of mindless comment is completely inappropriate.
Don't forget that this forum is freely available to read by any member of the public with a computer and seeing a comment like this is unlikely to help our cause.
When not riding trials, his hobby is fishing, every time his mum would ask his brother "where is Toni" he would reply "I seen him fishing"
Oh that's what is was, I heard he had a misspent youth and was always on his computer. Only later when he was in his teens did he caught phishing, You see, I heard he was the international mastermind behind a Internet phishing ring, gathering sensitive information such as passwords and credit card details, by masquerading as a trustworthy person or business in an electronic communication. I also heard he made so much money from these ill gotten means and that he wanted to ride a Mont soooo much, he bought the company!
Ah well, perhaps there was a more innocent explanation.
I'm no authority on this, but was told by Sandifords whilst buying a Jitsie filter that they were indeed flame retardant and therefore there was no need to run with the flame guard.
I've ran mine without the flame guard since new without any problems, but at the end of the day the choice/piece of mind is yours.
When I fitted my MC I used 2 plastic syringes, one full with fresh new fluid and the other empty to draw excess fluid from the MC.
The procedure I used is this: Find a clear piece of hose which is a good tight fit over the bleed nipple and syringe. Connect the full syringe to bleed nipple using the hose and open it 1/4 turn, then gently PULL the plunger to get any air out of the nipple/hose, this will be seen to enter the syringe and float to the top.
Then gently push the new fluid into the system with syringe keeping an eye on the MC and withdraw excess fluid when needed. Once you have pushed enough fluid into the system, close the bleed nipple. Then try your clutch.
This worked for me 1st time and took less than 10 mins but you have to be gentle with how much pressure you apply to the syringe as the hose can let air in/fluid out depending on how good a seal you've got.
is that right about the air filters not needing the flame screen???
I was told this by Sandifords, I've been using them in mine since I got it without any problems.
what difference does it make with the screen out?????
I'd be lying if I said I could detect a performance difference, the main reason I use one is that it gives a better seal using neoprene around the filter lid. It also means less fiddling trying to get that screen back onto the original filter.
AFTER STALLING: something we had to dig around to find out about, but we got some gen off Sandiford's and it works a treat. After a stall, don't just kick it as normal, it's very likely to kick back. With the throttle wide open, turn the motor over once to reset the ignition to 'starting mode', then let go of everything and give it the pre-prescribed smooth, long kick. It should rumble into life every time.
I'll have to give that a try, I wasn't aware of the reset to starting mode.
Right, I've bought V-mar rear linkage plates and front sprocket guard that saves the ignition cover in the event of a snapped chain. Both good quality items, the link plates definitely make a difference to the initial travel reducing sag and making the back end a lot easier to hop about. I got these direct from V-mar in the states and took advantage of the good rate and great service.
Jitsie air filters are flame retardant apparently so you can bin the flame guard and they are a much better seal on the filter lid. Jitsie Fork guards are more dated in appearance ( carbon kevlar) than the delay ones but are thicker and would do a better job of protecting the fork IMHO . Jitsie snail cam adjusters however I wouldn't recommend! They are too soft and too thick! This means that the rear spindle nut is a few threads short of where it should be and they distort when you tighten the nut!
The ptb is the No1 mod to do really, maybe worth going for the 2 map ptb now which has been mentioned before.
Raptor titanium pegs are a quality bit of kit and are worth the money IMHO, I never thought I'd say that about a
) and was looking at a Megamo on ebay, are these any good?
Homemade Silencer
in Fantic
Posted
I thought April 1st was almost 2 months away.