woody

Put it on the middle slot which is the normal position Top slot means the needle sits lower so lets less fuel through - weaker mixture in mid to high range Bottom slot means the needle sits higher so lets more fuel through - richer mixture in mid to high range You'll find that the needle clip being broken on an Amal is quite common but they still hold the needle when in situ

Hightown, I'm no engineer or gearing expert so the actual ratios people are quoting don't mean anything to me... 11/39 is standard for your bike so it isn't incorrectly geared, but as with most things it comes down to personal preference. Although it's standard gearing for my 199b as well, I find it a little high so sometimes use 1 or 2 more teeth on the rear, but, I only use the clutch when things go tits up or are very tight, so it's geared so I can ride most stuff without the clutch in bottom gear. That's about all I can tell you, it's down to you really, your riding style and the type of sections you ride in

'85 bikes were red. It was already 8 years old when the current owner got it, so it could have had the colour changed by a previous owner, unknown to the current one. Pink bikes weren't '85

The red model was from '85 and had drums The pink model was about '87/88 and had drums. The last model was '89 with the discs and had white tank with red/blue flash. The early bikes had a 4 spring clutch and this was changed at some point to a bigger 5 spring clutch with a different actuator in an attempt to improve the action. I can't remember if this came in on the pink bike or the disc model. The last bikes had different crankcases with a shallower sump

11 / 44 is what I have on my M92 and yes, it is too high. I didn't realise you could get them and I don't remember buying it, but I've just found a 10 tooth front sprocket in my box of bits so I've fitted that with the 44 rear. I've yet to try it, but I'd rather keep the rear sprocket a small as possible. 13 / 46 is much too high for trials riding. 12 / 46 wouldn't work well either in what I'd call proper trials sections. For reasons I don't understand, although 11 / 39 is standard for the last A model bikes, it would make my M92 unrideable in most sections as the gearing would be way too high. I don't understand why it doesn't feel like that on the 199a when the gears apart from 1st, are the same... ??

It's subjective. What one person finds ideal is too low or high for someone else. If you're fitting all new chain / sprockets just try the standard gearing which should give you a low enough 1st gear - 11 : 46 Unless you're riding a modern expert route, you're not going to come across a section that has turns too tight for the bike to go round without clutching in a club classic trial

Yes, the 250 models had the hub too which is what I was trying to say by adding series after the 350 model numbers I'd guess the fact they cracked in two saved people from hack sawing them into two... I'm pretty sure if you get it welded neatly by a competent welder, mount the tank on foam pipe insulator and put some sort of cushioning on the frame tubes under the seat pan to reduce vibration through the frame, it won't crack again.

This is how it came from the factory with what is referred to as the 'slimline' tank/seat unit http://www.ataq.qc.ca/galerie/showimg.php?file=/Mus%E9e/Bultaco/bultaco1975_sherpa250-350.jpg The tank/seat on your bike is what was fitted by the UK importers as the factory fibreglass unit was no longer legal to use on the road in the UK at that time, so although not how it left the factory, it is still a proper tank for the bike. For some reason the importers had them painted blue/silver instead of the usual Bultaco red/silver. The bike on the front of the Haynes model is the same as yours You can get a new tank seat unit from Shedworks if you want to go back to how it left the factory, but yours is correct for a UK bike of that period. They're made with ethanol proof resin and I have one on my M92 - can't put a picture up at the moment as my supporter subscription has run out and I didn't realise http://www.shedworks.net/index.html

Depends on what you want to know really. It was the last of the slimline models with the one piece fibreglass tank/seat unit - the alloy tank unit was a UK part due to fibreglass tanks being outlawed here the year before. It was the last of the 325 motors based upon the 250 crankcases. The next model - 159 - had new crankcases specifically for the 325 with a thicker liner and different stud spacing. Those engines can be taken out to 350cc. The early 325 up to the M151 can't. Essentially just an update of the original 325, the M92 and the M125 that followed that. The 125 and 151 series were the only model range to have that rear hub as well. Looks to be in nice original condition.

Don't know which email address you used but try this one as this is the one Anne uses to send out results etc. anne.trials@btinternet.com Normally on the Saturday of Remembrance weekend, although it may have been a week earlier last year, can't remember. I haven't heard from anywhere that it isn't on.

I'm no good with working out geometry or trail but I've ridden a few Yam framed Majesties with with TY Mono front ends and a couple of Godden framed too, and the steering was fine on all of them, with no alteration to head angle etc.

I found that dropping my newly painted homerlite tank unit proved quite efficient at removing the pop up cap... Unfortunately I can't help you with the correct way of doing it.

The bolts on the clutch side thread directly into the frame, they don't have nuts. As do the centre ones. The lug on the frame has a block welded to it that is threaded - over time, they may have stripped. The lug on the timing side uses a nut and bolt. The problem is the bashplate gets bent up in the middle over years of rock bashing which forces the rear downwards, which means it no longer fits properly. You can get them pressed back into shape if you have access to presses etc. Then the rear of the bashplate will once again mate up with the bottom of the frame. Not sure what happens to the fibreglass bashplate over time as I've never had one I only ever bolt it up from the ignition side, it's enough to hold it and they are much more accessible to get a nut and bolt through. I've also opened up the holes a bit to allow for mis-shapen bashplates to help the holes line up. If you manage to get a MAR engine out of, or into, the frame with a bashplate fitted, without a hacksaw or cutting disc, I'd like to see a video of it.....

And the throttle cable... Thanks for the info, most helpful

Could someone tell me what thread size the studs are that screw into the inlet port on a C15 head. I want to fit longer studs to move the carb backwards but I'm useless with British thread sizes. Secondly, does anyone know if they can be bought in longer sizes? If not I'll buy bolts and make studs out of them.

There is also a level plug to the lower front of the clutch case

ok, Can-am reference and tires threw me... Can-am is what they were called in the US. Here they were firstly CCM and then Armstrong. You can get parts for the engine. The cylinder has a plated bore so a rebuild has to factor in the possible cost of that. A full rebuild could be up to £500. The tank and side panels are one unit, they aren't seperate. There is a website here that has some info and pictures http://www.armstrong-trials.co.uk/ To give you an idea of prices, I've just sold a running bike that's road registered that needs a general tidy up and a gear selector problem sorting out for £650. It still works well enough to ride in a trial as it is. Then there is this one on ebay http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/VERY-RARE-CCM-ARMSTRONG-CAN-AM-310-NOT-FANTIC-BULTACO-TRIALS-TRAIL-1650-PX-/200940138494?pt=UK_Motorcycles&hash=item2ec8f72ffe

Bear in mind you'll have to find other main components such as a tank, airbox, exhaust - they could prove near impossible. Does the engine need a complete rebuild? Are there any forks? Probably not the best option for a rebuild in that state I'm assuming as it is badged a Can-am and your spelling of tires, you're in the US. You probably wouldn't want to give more than $300 for it as parts - whether you can make a bike out of it could prove a difficult task.

11 : 42 will feel high on the M92. If you ask Talon they will make you a sprocket in the size you want as they will already be set up to machine sprockets for that wheel. It's just a one-off order for a non-standard size.

I'd agree your original speed estimates were too high - I'd struggle to trigger the 30mph sign in 4th on mine, never mind 1st. The early Sherpas were never very quick on the road. Anyway, back to the matter of gearing. Your gear ratios are all correct so there is no problem with the wrong gearbox. The clutch gearing is the same for all Sherpas I think, so I don't think it is possible to alter gearing that way. However, yours is the right ratio so nothing wrong there. The final drive gearing was originally set with a 428 chain on this model and you don't say which chain size you are using. With the 428 chain the gearing should be 13 : 52 (14 : 52 is also quoted) The later bikes had the same gearbox ratios but when they switched to the 528 chain the gearing became 11 : 46 which is what you have. I've just rebuilt my M92 and had a first proper ride on it on Sunday. I think I'm running 11 : 46 as well but I'll have to check. When I got the bike it was on 428 chain, so when rebuilding I think I woould have opted for the standard 528 sizes. First thought was also that it is a bit too high, but I think this was exaggerated by the fact that the bike wasn't running well and was very woolly off the pilot jet. It also had two flat spots at aout two thirds and at full throttle. Ignition or carb but don't know which yet but the affect on throttle response can completely alter the feel of the bike. Trying to pick my way up rocky streams with a woolly throttle response makes the bike feel very lethargic which can also make it feel too long in the gearing. If the bike picks up crisp and cleanly it will feel much lighter and responsive and maybe the illusion of a too high 1st gear will disappear. Sorting out the running is this weekend's job. So on your bike, 11 : 46 is correct. As Feetupfun mentioned, make sure the bike is running correctly and try it again, you may get used to it quite quickly, if not all you can do is try a bigger back sprocket as you can't get a 10 tooth front for the Bultaco The last 5 speed model, the 199a used 11 : 39 according to the info sources, and had a lower first gear, although 2nd, 3rd 4th were the same. Not sure how that works out as 2nd - 4th would be quite high compared to 1st.

Difficult to get here in the UK though as there is no internet or ebay shop. The other problem with the right hand brake pedal is that if the footrests have been lowered, it is difficult to get the right leverage onto the standard brake pedal with your foot and this also contributes to the poor braking affect. Ideally the brake pedal needs to have a different shape when the footrests are lowered.

They stock Venhill who are the only company with off the shelf cables in the UK. The point being the Venhill rear brake cable is crap.

The kickstart hitting the gear lever is more of a problem on the 199a and b models because they have a shorter kickstart shaft with the 'thumb' timing cover. Therefore the kickstart is closer to the frame than on the earlier bikes. On both my 340 bikes, the kickstart actually touches the frame. I've broken off two right hand brake pedals on rocks on my 340

If you can get used to the left hand pedal stay with it. To fit a cable you need to put a cable stop on the frame above where the pedal locates and another on the swingarm. It's a fiddly job. If you search this forum you'll find a similar topic with pictures The Venhill rear brake cables are rubbish and have too much flex in them. I've ridden on one leg using the rear brake as the footrest with all my weight on it and I don't think it even moved the shoes into contact with the drum, never mind slowed it down. All that seems to happen is that it takes up flex and then stretches.The brake works perfectly using a left hand lever / rod so the cable appears to be at fault. The orginal Bultaco cable had a stronger inner cable and the outer cable had a solid bend where it bends onto the swingarm. This helped keep the cable from flexing when using the brake. The venhill cable doesn't have the solid bend, so not only is the inner cable too weak, the whole cable flexes when the brake is applied. I asked Venhill to make me a copy of the original, using an original as a patern but they won't do it.... !! I looked at making a cross shaft, like Aprilia, Fantic, Armstrong, but don't think it is possible because there is too much in the way to get the shaft from one side to another.

The one on the angle is the throttle stop screw because the throttle slide rests on it, so when you screw it in it lifts the slide. This lets air in and increases the engine revs by drawing through fuel with the air. Screw it out and the slide will eventually close shut - no air, no fuel, no tickover. The other screw is the mixture screw (air screw as it controls the amount of air passing through it) which will also increase and decrease revs as it richens or weakens the mixture through the pilot system which controls slow running. Screwing it out lets more air in which weakens the mixture. In shuts the air supply off letting more fuel through which richens the mixture. Set the mixture screw to 1 1/2 turns out from fully screwed in. Then turn the stop screw in or out to get a slow tickover. While it is ticking over again adjust the mixture screw by turning it very slowly either in or out about 1/8th to 1/4 of a turn. Listen to the engine as it will either run faster of start to stall. Turn it in the direction that causes it to run faster and keep turning until it starts to run slower again. Turn it back to the point at which it runs fastest. Then turn the stop screw out to reduce the tickover to the level you want. Leave it for a while to see if keeps running. If it falters and dies start it up again and while ticking over repeat the above process. If the carb is in good condition and the engine is in good fettle, particularly the crank seals, you should now have a smooth tick over You should find a tuning guide here http://amalcarb.co.uk/downloads/