woody

You can do it with two pairs of pliers. A normal pair to compress the spring and a needle nose pair to remove the pin. Yes they are under a fair bit of tension so the engine will have to be held securely if it is out of the bike so that you can push hard against the tension of the springs. If still in the bike, lay the bike on its side. Or make a "compressor" from a bit of tube, saw two slots in one end to fit over the pin, drill two holes opposite each other at the other end and put a bar through that you can hold securely as a T bar and push the tube onto the spring and compress it. Needle pliers to remove pin.

And from what little I've seen of it on TV, there are a good number of empty seats? Too many years of watching the same riders doing the same thing over and over on the same sections? There seems little variation and little scope for it

Having watched Cabestany's incredibly smooth and skilful ride through the section, here's Fuji's version of no-stop. This is the biggest difference between no-stop and stop allowed. You can see the section is possible no stop from Cabestany's ride. Fuji looks like he is struggling to hold a line and balance without stopping. He appears to be deliberately stopping to regain control and set himself up. If he didn't stop he'd probably have had a dab or so. He should have been given a 5 on about four occassions. If the section was ridden under stop and hop allowed they'd have ridden it with their eyes shut, no-stop it creates more of a challenge. So in that respect it achieves what it sets out to do, a section that causes problems if ridden to the rules and is obviously very difficult but not stupid (although I might think otherwise if standing at the bottom of it...) A success or not? http://www.youtube.com/watch?feature=player_embedded&v=XrJRFynYz6Y

I always thought the original red 349 was better than the white wonder as I thought it was the white wonder that was longer... I've no experience of either, just what I'd heard / read. The final 349 with kicked up swingarm was a very good bike with only a dodgy Montesa clutch and gear selector as a negative. Nice chassis, quick steering, light on the front to enable you to place it easily and one hell of an engine. I've seen pictures of Rathmell's white works bike that was fitted with the kicked up swingarm - sign of things that were to come

But, is what serves WTC best, also best for the sport as a whole. Now there's a subjective poser... Personally I don't think it matters what they do with WTC as I just can't see how it has any bearing in the slightest on what happens at club level. To be honest, there is barely a trial I go to throughout the year that it's even mentioned.

But I didn't say it was an argument to support no-stop. People are making a big deal out of how erratic no-stop observing is. All I did was point out how erratic observing of TSR22A has been too. Are people seriously suggesting there have been no rider/minder/observer confrontations since stop and hop arrived in around '82. I prefer no-stop but don't necessarily think it is the answer to whatever the problems, perceived, real or otherwise, are at WTC. The FIM, manufacturers and riders need to first of all decide what they want from the WTC. Is it first and foremost a competition, as it used to be, to determine who will be world champ from the best of each country. When, if enthusiasts wanted to turn out and watch the riders perform then they did so, but the events were always geared towards the sport, not spectators. Or is it just now a show for spectators, revenue earner for whoever with the actual competition to determine a world champ just a sideline by-product. A show far removed from what happens on your average Sunday in club rider land Until they find an answer to that, the WTC will probably never have any real direction or stability. But ultimately, does that make any difference to your average club rider’s enjoyment at their average club trials most Sundays. Most probably not.

Why is the observing any more subjective than it was under last year's rules? Time again we've seen riders moving a bike backwards by 'bouncing on the spot' except that they aren't, they move the bike backwards - against the direction of the section in order to get a better line. That's 5 - it's never given. Time again we see riders at all levels stuck on a root / rock or suchlike with a foot or feet down trying to pull the bike forwards. The bike is actually rocking back and forwards whilst the rider tries to get going again having FAILED to get over the obstacle that they are stuck on. Usually they get a 1 instead of the correct 5 for the bike slipping backwards. Whilst I've no personal interest in what they do with WTC rules, it's ridiculous to say that only TSR22B rules are open to interpretation or subjective, given what's been going on under TSR22A for the last however many years. Observing, whatever the rules, is subjective by its very nature.

They were alloy on the Ulf Replica Alloy isn't a good idea if you're going to ride it as they don't crash well, fine for just looking at it. I don't know if the Cota repro alloy guards are like the Ossa repros, but they are that flimsy that the stays cracked and separated from the front mudguard within a couple of hours use, I never even got the chance to bend them in a crash....

Second video is a good example of how a crowd can possibly influence an observer's decision when they rapturously shout and applaud what they perceive a clean. No-one shouts 5 at the 20 second mark when he blatantly stops of his own accord and hops and bounces into position. First video at around 38s is a good example of how not being able to stop and regain control when you've mistimed or misjudged a part of a section puts you just a little off line and nearly takes a mark to regain control. Fuji does stop here to avoid running right off line but it is very quick, quick enough for him to get away with it. As twinshockdude said, borderline, so you'd give the benefit of the doubt. As all the sections are (or should be) filmed these days, it wouldn't be too hard to resolve any disputes over issues like this afterwards. There's nothing there that I haven't seen happen in a classic trial...

Have a look through the Montesa forum as there are other topics about early Cotas with pictures and the sort of info you're looking for

Looks like one of the converted bikes that Commerfords did with the Whitlock swingarm and the pivot moved forward

I don't know of anyone specifically no, there are many spring manufacturers down here, mainly in Redditch, but I've no actual experience of any. I have had some springs made but they were done though a back door contact but they were pretty cheap. I don't imagine it would have been much more over the counter. I've heard other people say they have had springs made for not much cost. I'd measure them, wire thickness, overall length and internal diameter, then just pick out a few off google and see if you can get some quotes. The only place I can think of that might have some originals is Vale Onslow in Birmingham as they have masses of stuff for British bikes as the shop has been going since the 1920s. Old Len died in the early 2000s but son, 'young' Len (now 80 and was in the same school class as my dad) has worked there since he left school, as has younger brother Peter and the stuff they can remember is incredible. Be warned though, it can be hard work. (and my mum was at school with Jeff Smith's sister) Can't see the shop being around for too many more years, not only because of their age, it's falling down.

If you know what rate you need Ross, I don't think it costs much to have a pair of springs made

I bought a Sherpa because I had some spare fuel left and needed somewhere to put it...

Axul - you can change Falcons damping too, just a bit more fiddly and you need a mountain bike shock pump to pressurise them again. Generally though, you don't need to mess with the Falcon damping as it's usually fine.

Not sure what you were told by "have to get the conrod kit to get the bearings". The conrod has the big end bearing on the crankshaft, so if that is worn then yes you buy a complete new conrod kit as a replacement. It's an engineering job to fit it into the crank. The other bearings are main bearings and nothing to do with the conrod. They can be replaced independently of the big end bearing, although given the relative cheapness of main bearings, it's prudent to replace them as a matter of course when an engine is reassembled. Pricing a bike in that state is difficult but most bikes have a 'base' price regardless of condition and that base price seems to be around £400 - £500. The 349 isn't the most popular of bikes, unless it is one of the last models which differed considerably from the first red models and the next white one. There is a nut and bolt rebuild 349 for sale at the moment for £1250. I think you'd do very well to see anything like £750 and would have thought closer to £500 - odd. Fact is, if you do a thorough rebuild on a twinshock, you'll spend more than the bike is worth in terms of sale price, nine times out of ten, so never look to rebuild one with a view to making a few quid on it. It rarely happens.

I'm also pretty sure that if you fit it with the flat side in, the chain will rub on the crankcase (or can, depending on make of chain) As Steve says, it's not just the tab washer that is a problem with the 10 tooth sprocket, the chain can also catch the nut as well, again, maybe dependent upon the make of chain. I think the original nuts were also shouldered with a boss that kept them away from the chain. Those you buy now are flat, hence the problem. You can always space the nut out from the sprocket. Clean the threads on shaft and nut thoroughly and loctite the nut on. Shouldn't need the tab washer.

You're going to get a mix of answers that will tell you nothing as everyone's opinion is subjective. Opinions will vary as some riders give their shocks a much harder workout in harder trials than others who ride easier trials. Consequently the behaviour of the same pair of shocks in those two extremes would differ. I'd say Falcons every time. What matters is what you think. Ordinarily this question comes up when someone is thinking of buying a pair of shocks. You already have both sets in your possession, the only way you're going to know for sure is go out on the bike and try them both over a varied selection of sections.

MM definitely got bundles of talent but I don't think he's going to have it easy by any means. Testing and practise and even qualifying times don't always give an indication for what the actual races will bring. There was nothing between Pedrosa and MM yesterday and Lorenzo closed the gap right up in the actual race from a second a lap down over the rest of the weekend. And Crutchlow..... what a boy. Interesting times ahead...

I haven't heard of rod kits being a problem to obtain before. Pistons yes, they're hard to get for the 349 but fortunately you have one of those already. Rod kits shouldn't be a problem, unless the situation has changed recently. Have you tried here http://www.inmotiontrials.com/product-category/engine-parts-montesa/page/2/

If the shaft was bent and causing a problem, the shafts movement throughout the entire range would most likely be affected, not just prevent 4th and 5th engagement. Easy enough to tell if the shaft is bent by removing the clutch cover and seeing how easy it is to withdraw it over the shaft. If it's bent it will most likely come out with the cover, rather than stay in situ with the cover sliding easily off it. Once you've checked the shaft, remove the selector pawl assembly that the selector shaft engages with (three screws) and check that the two pawls haven't got chipped or broken edges which will stop them engaging properly in the selector drum. Unlikely as again, this would affect movement throughout the entire range, not just 4th and 5th gears. Once you've done that, there is nothing left to check really that isn't inside the gearbox. Maybe if someone has assembled the engine clumsily when joining the cases, the selector drum housing could have picked up and made it stiff, but again you'd expect that to present itself in all gears. As it's had a rebuild it does seem the most likely cause may be the selector fitted incorrectly, which means a strip down to correct the fault. I'm sure the Haynes manual may even refer to this but been a long time since I looked in one. The selector fork in question has bosses either side where the shaft runs through. One is larger than the other. If the fork is the wrong way around, it can't slide far enough to engage 4th gear. The last time I experienced this was in 1977 on a mate's Pursang that he rebuilt and got the selector wrong, so it's stretching my memory a bit... We took it out to try it after the rebuild and only 3 gears.

It's possible to assemble the gearbox with one of the selectors upside down, or wrong way around, forget which. If this happens then you get no 4th or 5th gear, only 1, 2, 3. So if the engine has been rebuilt this is a possible cause. If this has happened since you've been using the bike with all gears working, then you could have a broken or bent selector. As per the question above, when did it happen, after a rebuild or during use.

Generally smooth motors, but some Sherpas can make some strange noises when you drop the revs right down to nothing and ride at near stall speed, nothing untoward but possibly the grating noise you describe. I've heard it even on a fully rebuilt motor. No idea what it is but it's only at that point where the engine is almost stalling. There could be other causes, ignition flywheel catching the inside of the timing case if it has previously been damaged by the chain coming off. Clutch crankshaft weight loose, even the mesh between the bottom frame tubes touching the engine through being dented from rocks can cause vibration noises you may think come from the engine - same for the alloy bashplate on the later bikes. If it's anything more than that then you're going to have to look at the possibility you may have the onset of main bearing wear, or just a worn piston that is noisy but doesn't cause any loss in performance.

If it's a new frame kit you mean, contact Jim Pickering who makes the Drayton frames. There are a number of satisfied customers with these now. 07850836571

Yes, 1 down 4 up. The older Sherpas aren't very quick on the road Gearbox = 600cc Clutch = 300cc - if you have the original steel plates, use ATF