woody

Not specifically no, just check the events calendar on this site and buy Trials and Motocross News newspaper from local newsagents or WH Smith as that also has a list of events that are on over the following 5 to 6 weeks.

There's an AMCA trial at Bracken Rocks, near Matlock, tomorrow (or today, given the time...) Details are on the Calendar

Shouldn't make any difference to the tyre seating on the rim, it just denotes the strength of the rim

Yes, indeed. I was following him through most sections and he was riding really well. Fine achievement to go feet up on any bike, let alone the big Ariel.

Can't notice any performance difference between the two, or the Bing when it was new, OKO is just a lot cheaper (or was) to buy as a new carb. Mikunis are a pain as they have the airscrew hidden by the exhaust I have a Dellorto on my other 340 which works just as well

If you search the forum (Bultaco) I put the jet sizes on here from the OKO on my 340 some time ago. Must be pretty much the same for the 250

Perhaps you don't like tennis when you hit the ball into the net - remove the net? Make the holes 2 feet wide in golf for those who can't hit it first time? Does anyone apart from Fuji care that he stalled and had a five?

Try Sammy Miller products as I think they may be agents for Magicals now Or you can buy them from Todotrial in Spain http://www.todotrial.com/ttshop/indexttshop.htm

Tubed IRC have softer sidewalls and can roll off cambers or the tops of rocks and can even skew the bike sideways under hard acceleration when run at normal trials pressures of 3 - 5psi. How badly this is evident depends upon the type or level of sections being ridden and the weight of the rider. The heavier you are the worse they'll be as rider weight will squash the sidewalls more making them more prone to roll. Increasing the pressure to hold it on the rim doesn't work for trials because as soon as you go over 5psi grip is lost. So you either roll around on it or spin up... It does seem though that they are inconsistent and some aren't as bad as others, although a few road trials will soften the better examples up a bit. On the Jap rims they stay out on the bead until you let them down to about 10psi and then 'plop' - any lower and a section will drop into the well. Generally they are ok on the old Akront rims with no need to trim the bead. Trimming it would make it a more sure fit I guess but I've never done it in the past. Most of mine are tubeless rims now.

Agree with Mick, looks like a MK1 from the swingarm length, rear silencer, unpainted hubs and forks. Also the tank is the factory fibreglass one whereas the MK2 onwards in the UK had an alloy tank fitted, plus the side panel under the seat had a toolbox from MK2 onwards. Admittedly those things could be changed but they tie in with the other things. MKK1 also had bolt on carburetor mounting to cylinder and the outside fins each side of the head were split not solid. The engine number will confirm the model, most MK1 bikes didn't have the frame number stamped on them, it was on a sticker on the headstock which is usually long gone. The engine and frame number matched when built so you can use the engine number to check against the frame number charts that list the various models. http://ossa.2y.net/o...a-frame-nr.html MK1 Ossa They were only ever white and green as production bikes. Mick had a red stripe on a works bike.

I assume the FIM have a representative at these events. The FIM rule is that you complete the section without stopping. What was his reaction at the observers briefing when some clown told them that the riders can stop for a couple of seconds without being penalised. In the video there are 3 blatant stops inside 10 seconds and another 2 inside 20 seconds The only thing that surprises me is that anyone cares what they do with WTC observing....

I haven't seen it no, but it's not going to tell you anything about electronic ignition, all you'll see is someone riding a bike... It may fire up with the first kick but they'll do that on points too. The main reason most fit it is to do away with points maintenance, it doesn't transform the power of a bike to GasGas like levels, most you ca do is alter advance curves. I have a model 92, so does a mate of mine. One has points, the other electronic. If you rode them both you wouldn't know which was fitted with which. I'm not saying electronic isn't worth having, I've got it on two of my Sherpas, soon to be three, but don't expect it to transform the bike into a 280 GasGas

If you can get a copy of the Clymer manual that covers Ossa, Montesa and Bultaco in one volume, they give the length of the pins in the gearbox reassembly chapter. I thought there were three lengths, not two, but it's been a while since I did a Montesa There has been a topic on this in the past, I did a quick search but couldn't find it

Yes, they can't bore it without the new piston... The cylinder is blasted clean and returned ready to fit to the bike although I rinse them out anyway. All the ports are dressed properly. They have a backlog of work, so they must be doing it right and they've been around for quite some time.

PJ Engineering in the Midlands did a good job on fitting a new liner and reboring to new piston on my Bultaco. Fired it up last week for the first time and it is as quiet as you can get.

To convert to plated bore, first, don't you need an alloy liner, then plate to that? So it could cost £150 ? for a liner (based upon replacement cast liner from PJ Engineering for my Bultaco) £130 ish for the plating plus the cost of the piston. Expensive for no gain? I'd just use a decent piston like a Wiseco and get it bored. I had a rebore on a 250 Majesty using a pattern piston because it was all that was available at the time and it rattled within minutes of start up. That happened on two bikes and was nothing to with the quality of the rebore as I've had many done by the same person over the years.

The later 250 ('76 on) was sleeved down from the original 244cc 72mm standard bore to 238cc 70mm standard bore. You can still use the original size 250 pistons that start at 72mm standard and there are 4 oversizes, so you won't run out of 'meat' on your liner. So you aren't limited to a 71mm piston

They aren't aluminium bodied - only the end caps are aluminium, the body is steel. Which is better, Falcon or Betor is subjective. Personally I'd never by Betors in preference to Falcons and just my opinion, but you'd be fortunate if you bought a pair that worked as well as Falcons.

No, first I've heard of it but from what little info they've put, it suggests it's the same as the non-street legal tyre (as it doesn't sacrifice any performance) therefore should be just as good. Which begs the question why make the two, just make the street legal version. And street legal where? A rider here in the UK contacted the UK importer about whether the IRC was road legal and was told they had no plans for a road legal tyre.... There's a thread on it somewhere

The tubed rear michelin radial is utterly useless in mud and it should be against the trade descriptions to label it a trials tyre. If they even produce it any more. An X11 tubeless will sit ok on the Ossa rim with a tube and security bolts. Pirelli MT43 are also road legal but it depends on what you want from the tyre other than road use as to whether you'd want to fit one of those or not. The michelin tubed front tyre is fine.

The only spring is on the selector mechanism inside the clutch cover and a broken spring on that won't cause the problem you have. The selector moves backwards and forwards when you move the gear lever and it is moving unhindered if you can go through gears 1 - 3. All a broken spring will generally do is stop the gear lever centering after you change up or down. At worst it could foul and jam the selector but then you wouldn't have gears 1 - 3, so not sure what your mechanic has found broken. With the clutch cover off, you can see the selector that the gear lever operates. This engages with the selector mechanism which in turn engages with the selector drum which moves the selectors in the gearbox which select the gears. Picture 1 below shows the selector mechanism in situ which is held in place by 3 screws. The selector that the gear lever operates is removed and can be seen on the stand. It's been turned around to show the spring, when fitted the spring faces inwards. This is the only spring I can think of that could have been replaced. The slot in the selector fits over pin that you can see at 12 O'clock on the selector mechanism. When you move the gear lever up or down, the selector moves backwards and forwards. Behind the selector mechanism are two pawls and these engage into slots in the selector drum. When the selector is moved, the pawls engage with the slots and rotate the selector drum inside the gearbox. This moves the selectors inside the gearbox which engages the gears. If you remove the selector mechanism by removing the 3 screws you will see the outside face of the selector drum,an example of which is see in picture 2. If one of the slots is damaged it could possibly stop 4th gear from being engaged as the pawl would not be able to locate into it to move the drum. I've never seen it happen and think it's unlikely. Most likely I still feel, is that the previous owner reassembled the selector fork the wrong way around when rebuilding the engine. If all the mechanic did was replace the selector spring, he hasn't had to split the engine to do so, therefore the selector forks haven't been checked. All he had to do was go through the gears when he'd finished whatever he did to check they worked - which he obviously hasn't The selector forks are shown in picture 3 and the one nearest is the one which can be fitted the wrong way around. It's correct in the picture with the larger boss to the outside. Picture 4 shows them in situ in the gearbox I can't think of anything other than a selection problem inside the gearbox that realistically is causing the problem and I'm fairly certain it could be a wrongly fitted fork. I can't guarantee it but there is only one way to find out. For someone used to these engines it is less than 1 hour to get inside them to investigate

There is no spacer on the brake plate side (external spacer) so the brake plate sits right against the fork leg. There is a spacer on the other side and with the spacer fitted the edge of the hub is only about 1mm from the fork leg, they almost touch. The spindle goes in from the left side (left side as you sit on the bike) Fitting like this the wheel will be central. If it isn't central, have you got the forks the right way around? Not sure what the result of that would be but I can't think of anything else. If the spacer is too short the hub will foul on the fork leg and won't turn when tightened. If it's too long it will be difficult to fit and push the fork leg out.

Absolutely no idea where the 'about us' reference to cams, Honda or Porsche comes from. I don't remember any reference to them in the article, or on his facebook page

Thanks for the link Mick, I've looked over and over on that site and not seen them - assuming they'd be on the Northern Bike page... I'd looked around other pages but they're buried down on the News page which isn't particularly useful. Anyway, phoned Frank for the inevitable news that it's full. Now on the reserve list hoping for a cancellation.

Anyone seen the regs for this trial yet? I thought the regs for the PJ1 rounds usually appeared on the Poachers website but they don't seem to be keeping the Northern Bike section up to date this year and there's nothing on the South Liverpool site