Perhaps your disk is warn out and/or dished. Put a ruller across the disk face and check if there are any gaps by shining a torch from the other side. I had this once an a new disk fixed everything.
OK the reason I asked was because in other forums the bike has been received as, possibly, the best looking enduro bike ever. I just wondered if you lot agreed.
Agreed x100
They have gone out of their way to tidy up all the sillylittlehangyonthings so the bike looks really clean.
HEAPS and HEAPS and HEAPS of trail and enduro bike riding here in New Zealand ......
When my Beta runs low on fuel, the RPMs go through the roof!!! This has happened to me while riding but thankfully I was in 3rd gear and it happened while I was turning on gravel so my bike slid on its side and I flew off (this happened today).
What happens when you have high RPMs while riding and your kill switch doesn't work? Do I just pop it in first gear or neutral and just try to choke it to death? Wouldn't I totally screw up my bike if I stalled it by shifting into a higher gear from neutral with so many RPMs?
I never knew about the glove-to-exhaust technique; it makes sense! Thanks for the advice. Hopefully next time my bike freaks out it will be without a rider!!! Currently I don't have a kill switch so my bike is just a deathtrap and I'm retiring it until I get it figured out.
Revs rise when you un out of fuel??? If that is the case your bike maybe running too rich causing it to run lower rpms and the leaning out mixture is just the engine correcting the mixture. Or I'm wrong.
I'd say, after having the same bike, that you have groves warn into the ctutch basket. When you take the clutch plates out - inspect the many driving faces of the clutch basket. If there are groves, even minor ones, worn into the faces then remove the basket and have an engineer mate stroke file them out with a finishing file.
And don't forget to do all the clutch mods pined here somewhere.
There were a few that came out with faulty shocks and they had almost no rebound damping and the rebound adjuster had no effect. Hope that helps. The shocks are rebuildable.
Nope. 1/3 sag front and rear with your gear on and the bike is static. Get a friend to help and take the measurement a few times to be sure it is right. and check it every 6mths.
Everyone has their preference.... but I'd stay with the 5.5 bars. Normally the higher bars(6" and up) are for the tall rider.
Are your bars set correctly? They should be set near vertical (looking at the angled rise (what the hell do you call it ???) from the side
Your problem may simply be the way you stand on the bike..... just try standing up straight then add a little bend to your knee then lean forward to hold the bars (there should be little to no pressure on your hands).
It will be the single biggest improvement you can make to the bike!
You will get better "feel" of the ground below you and, you will get better traction (if it is properly set up - so don't bosh one on and think that is the end), the bike could ride a little higher because it is not blowing through it's travel.
People have been raving on about the traction the new Ossa gets......... it is the Ohlins TTX shock!
When you get one there are a few mods to do so search the Beta area..... Best one is to raise the needle all the way up..... cos the bikes ship lean from the factory to pass emissions testing
:rolleyes:
2011 280 raga
in Gas Gas
Posted
Ok on the internet this is difficult
If it sounds Blahhhhhhhhhhhhhh Blahhhhhhhhhhhhhhh then it is lean.
If it sounds Blub blub blub (like a four stroking sound) it is rich.
Check your mixture screw is in good order and all the needle screw is still intact.