As I mentioned the other day, I decoked the head and it seemed better from pinking point of view. So, as an experiment, I reverted to the original pilot jet (33) and moved the needle back to its original position (second notch from bottom)....no pinking! So, thanks to all that mentioned the decoke!
So, the moral of the story, if its pinking, decoke the head before changing the carburation!
On decoking, anyone any tips on decoking the piston? I only did the head with fear of dropping crap down the cylinder.
Cheers,
Wayne
I'm quite chuffed.... I'm in NZ and I helped "fix" a bike in UK.
On one bike i carefully scrapped off a soft carbon build up on a piston in position, put some oil on the rings and it fired up fine. On another the coke was hard so i removed the cylinder and wrapped the piston and crankcase in bags / rags, cleaned and polished, and reassembled. Remove the rings before starting (keep them in the same order / orientation!). You may need a cylinder base gasket.
At no point have i said anything with regards to the riders of that era. Infact Martin Lampkin has brought the sport forward along with his son, i merely refer to old minded people.
Well done wayne. When you do get around to decoking the piston spend some time polishing the piston top with Autosol polish (after some 600 grit emery paper) to slow further coke buildup.
Got a 2010 evo 300 4t with IRC tyre and it goes down if you ride at correct trials presures, if I fit a tube will I need to drill and fit grippers ? or do the tubelss tyres hold so tight that grippers not needed. Worried about ripping out the valve from the tube if tyre spins on the rim
Any advice appreciated
Thanks
No need for tyre anchors. the tyre will pop up onto the rim and stay there just fine. Go to a cycle shop and get a bottle of leak stop goop - it works a treat and you won't need the tube.
cheers mate, hope your ty 250 turns out as you imagined it, its great fun doing up old bikes, i've had at least 500 views but only 3 replys, what a bunch of ****ers
Thanks for that. Why did you say that? I was happy to just have a look.
Yes it will be ok. Try it and the worst case is you have to swap it out again. ATF oil is roughly 8wt oil and a cheep way to go for fork oil if your aren't bothered with buying the premium stuff.
My 08 Rev4t is brilliant. The 07 was the first year they made the 4t some of them were a a bit rough in places but still great.
It is light, easy to start, quiet, lots of power, HEAPS of easy to find traction and is a real blast to ride. Getting to the valves to adjust them is a little time consuming as the engine needs to b rocked forward.
I'd buy another tomorrow given a choice of bikes.... and an upgrade will be to an Evo4t.
Clean off the oil with petrol and polish off the carbon with 600grit sand paper and polish with autosol alloy polish. DO NOT get the emery/sand paper grit in the engine. Clean again with petrol. Lots of times.
Mate please pull the head off. There will be 6 years of carbon on the piston and head. It needs polishing off and probably put the jets back as they were. All 2t bikes need this maintenance.
By all accounts the bike is brilliant at getting traction. I'll be something to do with the TTX Ohlins rear shock - it is a brilliant bit of kit worth thousands for a road bike. Honestly it is great.
06 300 Raga - Pinking sound but stops with choke on...Fixed!
in Gas Gas
Posted
I'm quite chuffed.... I'm in NZ and I helped "fix" a bike in UK.
On one bike i carefully scrapped off a soft carbon build up on a piston in position, put some oil on the rings and it fired up fine. On another the coke was hard so i removed the cylinder and wrapped the piston and crankcase in bags / rags, cleaned and polished, and reassembled. Remove the rings before starting (keep them in the same order / orientation!). You may need a cylinder base gasket.