Some shocks have no separate air chamber (emulsified type i think) and actually work by foaming the damping oil. Perhaps this is what the shocks are - have you contacted Betor or the importers?
You get what you pay for! 30 quid doesn't sound a lot.
I have a half decent one and find the inside of carb is quite clean nothing much came out of it.... the UC won't remove the varnish build up. I'd pick that you'll wreck the carb with too much assembly/disassembly.
If it is for you you can copy anyones patent.... you just can't sell it to anyone or make a 'gain' from it.
I have a book on springs around here. Somewhere unpacked. I'll try dig it out.
Your standard spring on the bike is acting exactly like a torsion spring... but someone just wound it up to a convenient shape. so.... Flipp'n heck you're talking of a short spring mate. I'd imagine making a strong connection at either end of such a powerful spring will be the challenge.
The Evo 4T are sent from the factory lean in the mid range. To help the bike run smooth and strong richen the needle by raising the needle (drop lower the clip) as high as it will go. I and most everyone does and it helps.
Errr negative on rolling the bars backwards mate. While it can help, mostly it cramps the bike up and you hands come too close to your hips. Keep them vertical.
I'll put money on your rear shock needing a rebuild. A high quality shock gives amazing feel/feedback/and traction to a motorcycle. Lucky beta fitted a high quality shock to your bike - but they do need a service every 3-4 years. Get it to a motorcross or trials shop for at least an oil change and Beta do a rebuild kit for the shock. Grease the swing arm pivot. Change the fork oil while checking the bike over.
Also check your bike is properly setup. Get a friend to help, with riding gear on measure the sag the bike has when you stand on it. Front and back. Adjust the spring for 1/3 sag. Be mm accurate and measure it a few times.
Front and back have rebound damping adjusters. These should be set to take all the fast bouncy rebound action out of the spring. Try a few different settings for what you preefr. Also - important point - slightly slower rebound damping will tend to give better traction. If the rear shock damping adjuster makes no change when it is adjusted then the shock definitely needs a rebuild.
Call John Lawton NZ Beta - in Kapiti, ask him about the Ixion Club or bikes.
For a bike try TradeMe website.
I live in Carterton nr Masterton now, but it will be a few months before I back into action, happy to help out with anything - call me +64 6 370 3709, Ralph
Get the links and swing arm greased, fit new fork oil..... so it has a hope of keeping up with the quality rear shock.
Is the the shock fitted with the correct spring for your weight?
Regardless.....
Get a friend to help. Get a ruler and mark two places on the bike - end of the swing arm and the mudguard above. Stand on the bike with your riding gear on. Your bike should sag 1/3 of it's travel front and rear. Measure it a few times because there is stiction in the suspension. Be mm accurate. Front and back. Adjust the spring to set the sag correctly. Check this is correct every 6 months.
Damping is all about preferences. Basically the damping needs to remove the fast bounce out of the shock. Use the adjusters and try different settings. Keep notes on what you thought. Fast bouncy rebound makes the bike bounce about. Slower keeps the weight on the rear tyre and helps traction. It is your preference.
Hi. Check the rear links and swing arm are greased. Change the fork oil oil for some fresh oil.
Get your riding gear on. Get a friend to help. Stand on the bike and check how much sag you get. You need to set things with 1/3 sag when ready to ride. Check things a few times because there is some sticky ness. Try to be mm accurate. Trials bikes spring rate is very forgiving in how they are set up but if you are under 65kg or over 95kg there is a chance you may need different springs.
Both ends will have rebound damping. Adjust damping to take all the fast/bouncy-feel rebound away. Slightly slower will give slightly more traction.
Raise the needle all the way up - clip on the bottom - they have set them lean in the midrange to pass emissions. Experiment with pilot jet setting but 2-2.5 turns is about right for a smooth idle and off idle feel (and a resistance to die). You will still need to set the idle high at approx 1400-1600 rpm. Main jet is normally correct from factory.
Triming Handle Bars Down ?
in Youth Trials
Posted
Don't cut the nice renthals. He'll only need these when he is a little taller. Get some cheaper bars and cut these down.
Note!.... only cut off half what you think you should remove as it is too easy to cut metal off and it is very difficult to "cut it back on"