jandyb

Hi all I finally got my 300 back together again today after changing the crank bearings and seals. It started very nicely at the 5 th kick, but it soon became way too hot. The fan went on after about 30 seconds and after a minute even the rear muffler was burning hot. After stopping and trying to start again it also backfired a couple of times. Never did that before. Any ideas anyone? -Jan

Serious if I were you I would take a look as soon as possible. There is a possibility that the spring has broken and that there are loose spring parts in there. Although it has not yet done any harm it could happen any time. If so the conequenses are likely to be mutch bigger than just a broken spring. -Jan

I agree on that. Although I probably isnt that regular I also like to change about every two weeks as it is a very cheep ensurance. Easy and quick operation too. A couple of minutes riding first to get the oil sweet and warm makes it easier. Warming up really does a difference. When draining my 300 before taking it apart this spring I didnt had the chance to start it up first. As it was about 3-4 below zero (celsius of course) in my garage I almost had to lick the oil out of the engine like syrup.. :-) -Jan

hehe.. Your looking good. Forever young that is. Well since I showed your face I will be polite enough to show mine. Here is mine. Picture taken when on my first competition got on the podium in a Scandinavian race. Only reason I got on podium was that I was alone in my class :-) -Jan

By the way.. Is this You Jon? :-) -Jan

Hmm... looked up the word "abrasive" as it until now hasnt been in my english vokabulary.. :-) I also use kerosene to wash both my air filters and to clean dirty engine parts, chains and so on as kerosene is very effective for that. What you are saying is that kerosene actually has a "grinding" effect if left on the material? If this is right I will sure be more caseful to flush the parts from now on... The reason I use kerosene is -besides that it is very effective - the fact that I used to have a kerosene heater in the house. Now the heater is gone, but the kerosene tank is still not empty. I will have cleaner for years... :-) -Jan

Hi The former norwegian GasGas importer always run the engines he had in for service one minute with kerosene instead of oil in the gearbox to "clean it out" as he said. It sure cleaned it out, but I dont know if there was any harm done by it. Kerosene is AFIK pretty much the same as diesel only "cleaner"? -Jan

Just took a look at my own 300 pro. The spring is NOT visible with the clutch in, and it is of course NOT possible to take out the kickstart axle without first removing the clutch. Removing the clutch is no big deal. One allen in the middle and then withdraw the whole clutch assembly. -Jan

You should as far as I remember be able to see the spring. I would guess that the spring has broken, but it may be possible that it has just "glipped over". When the clutch cover is off you should be able to take the kick axle out without using tools. just bend it out. (Or do you have to remove the clutch and the nearest gear? I dont remember). Once the axle is out you can inspect the spring. If it looks ok the install prosedure is like this: Put the long end of the spring into the hole in the engine case. Twist the axle one round counterclockwise to achieve spring tension. Use the kick lever as a tool for this. Then push the whole thing into the engine case. When remounting the clutch cover it is important that the "U" on the friction spring enters the right hole in the cover. Hope this helps. -Jan

Point taken. You are of course right. And when at a closer look the clutch side bearing was beginning to "lug". Both bearings and all seals are changed now. I took the engine to a GasGas workshop, and the guy there was also very surprised that the seals were so tight, but after using way much more power than I dared to they finally came in. One bearing question: on the flywheel side the bearing is supposed to be lubricated by oil through a "passsage", but the bearing and seal almost blocked that passage. Are there something to be aware of here? -Jan

The guys You ride with are quite right. The early Pro`s had some issues, but as - Jon always points out - nothing that cant be sorted out with proper maintenance. And I must point out that I also really liked my 1999 270. It was a wery solid and nice bike and it made the horns grow out of my forehead when riding easy terrain, trails and so on, but when it comes to handling in difficult terrain the pro`s are way ahead. -Jan

Who said anything about a new bike? The big change came in 2002 when the Pro was first introduced, and the difference from the older ones are HUGE! -Jan

Hi jon So You are online.. :-) Daytime in US now? I am not replacing the bearings as they seem to be Ok. "Just" the seals. Im beginning to wonder if I have got the wrong size as they refuse to go in. I`d never thought this shold be so difficult.. :-( -Jan

Hi again Engine splitted and the old crank seals are out. At least the left one seems very bad so I guess it was on time to replace them. But how the h***** get the new ones in place?? I have tried to drive them in using a socket, but they refuse to go straight in. I have also cooled the seals in the fridge for a couple of hours. Any Ideas? -Jan

Ooops..!! I joined the connection on my sons 125 when I removed the switch last year. Maybe thats the reason the bike is a bit "lazy". -Jan

Sounds smart. I actually thought the thought last night, but couldn`t find a suitable bolt. Whats the clue about cutting the hex and make a slot for a screwdriver? Doesnt a spanner do the job? -JAn

Hi I finally have begun the work to change the crank seals on my 04 300 pro. I have now stripped down the engine ready to remove from the frame. Only thing left is to drive out the swing arm pivot shaft. Any ideas on how to do this without damaging any threads? Problem seems to be that the shaft is hollow and the hole in the frame is just as big as the hole in the shaft. There is no place to tap on the shaft. (And yes. I have loosened the two allen bolts at the rear end of the motor) Thanks -Jan

Well... keep an eye on the ads on the top of this page.. :-) (Hint: trialendurodirect.com) -Jan

Ooops... doesnt sound good. I would tried to change oil before changing the clutch. At least once maybe twice. These clutches seldom wear out. There usually is some other reason for it slipping like water in the oil due to leaking water pump shaft seal. -Jan

Hi 1. I do think the clutch is still there. its just not functioning.. There are several possible reasons for he clutch not functioning. Post some more information on how "it feels" or react and I`m sure You will get some good advice on what to do. 2. If the conclusion is that you need a new clutch then try the ad on the top of this page... (hint: trialendurodirect.com) -Jan

First point: The "before pro" (pro Pro`s as to say) Gassers are very solid, powerful and so on. If your ambisions are to have fun and ride in fields or at trails in the woods or ride drunk or anything like this, they are more than good enough. Also as they are (at least ought to be) cheap, you can always sell it for the same price as you bought it. Perfect as a first bike if you dont know if trials is something for you. But I am always amased when someone says that a "pro Pro" is good enough because it can do much more than I am capable to. Of couse it can, but thats not the point. A Pro is a so much better trial bike that you - with the same amount of skills - can do much more on a Pro than on a "pro Pro". The guy who wins all our competitions are riding a "vintage Yamaha". That doesnt mean that the Yamaha is a very good bike. This only tell us that the guy is an exellent trial rider. Must say that when he expect some higher competition he always bring a Pro as a backup. He hates to loose... Thoughts from Norway.. :-) -Jan

Hi I went from a 1999 270 (that is wery similar to a 01 321 exept from dispacement and colour) to a 03 200 Pro. (and later to a 04 300 pro). The difference is so big you wont believe it. Only 25% more? Go for the Pro! No doubt! -Jan

Hi If I remember correct 0.1 mm higher clutch pack makes 2 mm (!) difference to the finger height... -Jan

Link?? -Jan