jandyb

If he says it has a 2003 gear and clutch hous it means he has replaced the engine casing. Probably because the original has broke. The 2003 rooms sligtly more oil and is strenghthened round the lower engne mount. It is rare to see a 2002 that the lower engine mount has not broken. Dont know the oil you used, but if it is synthetic change it to either clean mineral oil or ATF as soon as possible. The synthetic oil mixed with brake fluid from the clutch and coolant from the water pump will destroy your clutch fibres. Difference between Pro and non Pro? Everything? Seriously I will guess about 20 Kg is the most important diference in addition to different steering angle. -Jan

I also saw one using an empty ketchup bottle the other day. Well not empty. It was filled with brake fluid.. -Jan

Hi It might not be something wrong with it. The rear brake cylider is a hell to bleed. Just keep trying. Some advices that might work is: -Use a syringe to both push and pull brake fluid from the rear end. -Put the front wheel against the wall or something to get it vertical and the master cylinder high -Put the rear end high to get the slave cylinder high -The "pin" that goes into the master cylinder is short. Make it longer or take it off and use a screwdriver or something to pump the master cyinder -Jan

What bike is this? -Jan

...trying to imagine how it looks when the silencer is rubbing the tyre.... -Jan

Not quite.. the 02 takes 350cc and from 03 and on 550cc. I know cause I have had both 02`s and 03`s Well you will soon enough find out anyway... Fill to the middle of the sight window... -Jan

Hi About 0,55 litres of preferrably ATF Dexron III -Jan

Hmm... this sounds like 2002 recommondations. First: The 02 Pro used 350cc gearoil. From 03 its about 550cc. Second: 5W30 (pure mineral oil - no synthetic) is ok but I think GasGas USA now recommends ATF Dexron III Third: AFAIK DOT 5 brake fluid DOES NOT mix with DOT 4!!?? -Jan

Hi ATF (Automatic Transmission Fluid) Dexron III -Jan

Are You sure its only one at the bottom? Both my own 04 300 and my kids 06 125 has two at the bottom. One at each side. -Jan

Yeah... And after you have welded the thing you have to repack it.. -Jan

What year are your bike? The silencer has different "bolting" from year to year. The 02 has only two bolts. One upper and one lower. From 03 and on theres three bolts. One upper and two lower on each side. From 08 I think the middle and end are welded together. There may be an other version in between ther also... After unbolting the silencer is only stuck by some o-rings inside. Pull it about eight cm straight backwards while wiggeling gently to get it loose. -Jan

I see that Jon has answered your question, but out of curiosity I want to ask why change to silicone hoses? Just for appearance or is there a practical reason? Cheers! -Jan

Hehe.. I also looked at the parts manual and thought I saw the same as you, but then I discovered that they had used the same drawing on both sides. Then that picture was nothing worth... -Jan

I think I just found the answer myself. Went looking for that other engine I have when I found two case halfs that I forgot i had. The two halfs is from two different bikes and both had the seals intact and turned with the open side towards the crank. I am a bit relieved because I had already put the seals in the case... puh.. Thanks anyway. Actually good to discover that you don`t know everything Jon.. -Jan

Yes and no.. I was really hoping that you could tell for sure. What You say makes sense. I have also thought in that direction. On the other hand the seals must seal on both sides because they must also withstand the compression in the crank chamber right? Kickshaft and shiftshaft seals have only one mission to keep oil inside. And: I am pretty sure, but not 100% that when I first split the cases in february the open side was against the crank and the closed side against the bearings. Hmm... I have another engine "laying around". Do i have to open it to have a look... -Jan

May seem a silly question but I am asking just to be sure: Which way goes the crank seals? Open side towards the crank or towards the bearing? Quick answer appreciated. I am working on it now.. -Jan

Or directly: http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AEqQvL23bgs You can find links to all videos and a lot of other usefull stuff here: http://www.trialspartsusa.com/tech.html -Jan

Thanks I need it. The motor is out of the frame again now. Only need a flywheel puller to get the flywheel off. There is one about 30km from here.. Any other easy way to get the flywheel off? Thinking abot buying a puller every time, but again everytime I am hoping to be the last time needing one.. :-) -Jan

Latest news: Yesterday I took the cylinder head off. I didnt find any streaks there but I found some water pearls on the top of the piston. Then assuming that the smoke was because burning coolant I put the bike together again, and of course used new O-rings between cylinder and head. (The grease trick did the job perfectly. Impossible without it I think..). Now hoping that the new O-rings would solve the problem and that there wasnt any cracks in cylinder/head. Well... got it together and started at second kick. And smoke was again filling the air around me and anything else.. Fearing te worst case that the cylinder was cracked I now emptyed the coolant and started again without coolant. Luckily (?) it still smoked heavy, so the conclusion now is that the smoke comes from burning gear oil. So... back to the beginning. Starting dissassembly for the third time after work today... When - if ever - this is fixed I will grant myself a long day in the woods riding my bike and then celebrate... -Jan

That could be right, but i think that was because I had forgot to tighten the flywheel and the flywheel was "off position". A second thought the heat could have dam

Da

Hi As some of You have noticed I have opened my motor this winter and changed crank bearings and seals. After reassembling it started OK but are now burning gear oil (I guess). Actually quite white smoke are coming out of the exhaust. A lot of it... This evening I have taken the motor out of the frame again. What do you think I have to look for while disassembling? Or maybe even: Can there be any other reason for the smoke than burning oil? Thanks -Jan

Got to answer this myself then. I was actually dreaming the answer while seeping last night - rather a nightmare. Checked first thing when got home from work today. Yep.. Forgot to tighten the flywheel bolt.. The splint (?) was of course gone but manage to get a new one quickly. Got the flywheel mounted and tighten thoroughly and the thing started again at once. Seemed to run OK until it started smoke like an old steam train. The gear oil probably runs straight through my new seals. To it again then and no competition tomorrow.. -Jan