I'm sure that the price of a tyre is far more than a few Dollars of Fuel for the Truck!
a Rear Tyre is knackered after a few days during the Scottish 6 days, if not sooner. Due to the Road work So you must go through them in no time if you plan on doing that.
Ok so years ago, i used to do Archery and for Yorkshire, but early on my coach and i realised i was 'Gold Shy' Gold being the centre of the traget.
So what we did, was to over time fold the target down bit by bit to take the other colours away, so after a bit of time, all i had to shoot at was the centre of the target! Forcing my mind to get over the easier options.
So to your point, and most others in Trials, with no flags you feel like a pro, and go up anything. Thats because you have infinite options of Lines! So Set some sections out with Really Wide gates, this will give you lots of room for error whilst getting used to the flags. Then over time, reduce the size of the gate.
Hopefully you can see what i'm getting at with the 2 stories?
Blunt answer is it an Xispa, don't expect things like that.
So where the big hole is, there should be some Gauze across it. If you think that the holes within that are too large, get down to morrisons and buy a cheapo seive, the wire mesh type. Cut it up and bond it to the plastic. This obviously won't stop water, but it'll stop larger parts of mud.
As for water, if it hasn't got a drain plug in the bottom of the airbox, maybe put one in. Small splashes of water etc arn't too bad, if your filter is well oiled.
Hi Warren, I'm going to answer, but i don't know if this a Joke thread. If it isn't please don't be offended.
From your avatar you ride a TxT Pro? Your air intake is also under a panel on the 'Seat' Plastics. As are most trials bikes.
As for stopping mud and water getting in, thats not a massive problem, as you should have a well oiled air filter in there, and possibly a 'Drain' bung on the bottom of the air box. As for stopping water getting in, many people Duct tape around the panal.
I think there just what the guys have done as a 'Look what we can do' Project. They do look gorgeous though, Lets see how Woody gets on with them in the SSDT.
I can't see why they wouldn't have them on the Public Market. I think the Master Cylinder assembly they've done has gone out to some dealers but i could be wrong.
2 never mentions anything about going out of course, just that he flattened the other courses flag. So this being the error or not depending who is observing.
3 mentions nearly going out of course, but he saves it and pulls the front end round, but the point is the flag is flattened but bounces back, so what would you mark for that?
Lets see what people think, Your an observer so place what you think the mark is you would give to the following -
Little Jonny brushes a flag with his foot, the flag has gone from perfectly upright, to now a slight lean. Leaning away from the section. =
Big Mick is bouncing his front end around and flattens one of the other routes flags. =
Nobby is riding the section, his tyre is heading out of the section, but he manages to stop and flick the front end around, in doing this he knocks the flag, of which flattens but then bounces back up. It dosen't bounce back up perfectly, but enough to not worry the observer getting up to reset it perfectly. =
These are just some silly scenarios i've thought of. But if anyone has any real live times where the call to give someone was a penality or not, get it put on this thread, and lets see what people would do.
We have a Sherco Ohlins shock in stock but we can get a Beta one for you.
The Gold shock is the latest shock, on the Sherco it has updated damping and a slightly stiffer spring, I'm not sure what differences there are to the Beta shock but the gold one will be the most up to date.
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1- If you haven't done it before, take pics of each step, so you remember where washers went, or which way round Dust seals went.
2- To push the Bearings out, Get a Socket that sits on the Link itself, and is big enough to allow the bearing to enter it. And then a socket that sits on the outer bearing race, but is small enough bore to fit inside the Link.
you should see what your trying to achieve by now. If you have a Vice, then set it up as above and press the bearings out. This also works for pressing the bearings back in.
If you don't have a vice, ive simply hammered them out as above.
Really make sure before you start, that the Socket Pushing the Bearing out, is not too big or caught on the Ali body of the link, or else you will damage it.
Correctly Tensioned Chain
in General Trials Talk
Posted
No Probs ;-)